AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Matthew Toms
Alternative for White Bottle Paint?
shonen_red
Metro Manila, Philippines
Joined: February 20, 2003
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Posted: Tuesday, July 15, 2003 - 11:23 PM UTC
Can I use a correction fluid as a substitute for white enamel? On all the colors I've used, white is my real problem! Painting with white enamel is a disaster and I can't do even coatings. Even Spray can ones won't work! It just flow downwards and another uneven coating!
scoccia
Milano, Italy
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Posted: Wednesday, July 16, 2003 - 12:26 AM UTC
In my experience the correction fluid is even more uneven that the white paint. Are you painting by hand, I mean without an airbrush? If so you can try to use the white primer from Tamiya (spray can) to obtain an even white coat or, quite a lot cheaper, get some automotive light gray primer and then a white always for automotive use (bot in spray can).
Ciao
Ciao
Marty
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: June 16, 2002
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Posted: Wednesday, July 16, 2003 - 12:30 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Can I use a correction fluid as a substitute for white enamel?
Interesting concept. You would need to try it out. I am not sure how well correction fluid will adhere to surface of your model.
Quoted Text
Even Spray can ones won't work! It just flow downwards and another uneven coating!
You are probably either using too much paint or you hold the spray can too close to your model. In my experience with spray cans is that you need to hold it about 10 inches away from the object you are spraying. Also make sure the paint is mixed well. You need it shaken not stirred. :-)
Posted: Wednesday, July 16, 2003 - 12:31 AM UTC
Hi Shonen Red,
this may sound very silly but i use Modelmaster ll Light Grey as a substitute for white. i use the enamel colors. it makes a great off/dirty white. i use it for all purposes and have thrown my white paint away.
Chris (++) The Helpful Hog
this may sound very silly but i use Modelmaster ll Light Grey as a substitute for white. i use the enamel colors. it makes a great off/dirty white. i use it for all purposes and have thrown my white paint away.
Chris (++) The Helpful Hog
shonen_red
Metro Manila, Philippines
Joined: February 20, 2003
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Joined: February 20, 2003
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Posted: Wednesday, July 16, 2003 - 02:20 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Hi Shonen Red,
this may sound very silly but i use Modelmaster ll Light Grey as a substitute for white. i use the enamel colors. it makes a great off/dirty white. i use it for all purposes and have thrown my white paint away.
Chris (++) The Helpful Hog
I'm just like you! I never use nowadays white (since the disaster it caused in my rare models) except light grey colors! I only use white for mixing to make the grey paint look whiter but never pure white!
shonen_red
Metro Manila, Philippines
Joined: February 20, 2003
KitMaker: 5,762 posts
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Joined: February 20, 2003
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Posted: Wednesday, July 16, 2003 - 02:24 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextCan I use a correction fluid as a substitute for white enamel?
Interesting concept. You would need to try it out. I am not sure how well correction fluid will adhere to surface of your model.
Quoted TextEven Spray can ones won't work! It just flow downwards and another uneven coating!
You are probably either using too much paint or you hold the spray can too close to your model. In my experience with spray cans is that you need to hold it about 10 inches away from the object you are spraying. Also make sure the paint is mixed well. You need it shaken not stirred. :-)
Tried it on my Gundam models and it sucks. (I've done it before when I was a bit younger). Now I know how to do brush painting, I haven't tried it these days anymore.
Marty
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: June 16, 2002
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Posted: Wednesday, July 16, 2003 - 02:48 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I'm just like you! I never use white except light grey colors! I only use white for mixing to make the grey paint look whiter but never pure white!
I am little confused now. So do you or do you not use white for painting? You asked about a substitute for white paint because you were not able to get an even coat and then you said you only use white to mix with other colors. So which is it? I am only asking because I would like to help you out but I am not sure what the real problem is.
shonen_red
Metro Manila, Philippines
Joined: February 20, 2003
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Posted: Wednesday, July 16, 2003 - 02:58 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextI'm just like you! I never use white except light grey colors! I only use white for mixing to make the grey paint look whiter but never pure white!
I am little confused now. So do you or do you not use white for painting? You asked about a substitute for white paint because you were not able to get an even coat and then you said you only use white to mix with other colors. So which is it? I am only asking because I would like to help you out but I am not sure what the real problem is.
Ok, to clear it out. I USE white paints BEFORE. The thing I said about using grey as substitute is what I do NOW. The real problem is how will I do even coating?
Sorry about my previous post for the lack of the necessary info. Double-checked it and it's now understandable (I think)
JPeiper
California, United States
Joined: November 25, 2002
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Posted: Wednesday, July 16, 2003 - 03:47 AM UTC
Sho-
Just so quickie advice on white paint. Here is what I have found anyway...
Humbrol flat white is chalky. Don't go there.
Tamiya flat white - I never had success with brushing Tamiya acrylics so forget it, too.
MM Flt enamel Flt white - Okay. Better than Hum or Tam.
Vallejo Foundation white - I recently started using this as a brush on primer for figures. It goes on very even and smooth with a WN sable brush. No streaks but at 1:1 dilution with distilled water I have to apply 2-3 coats for COMPLETELY even effect. No brush marks at all. It's tone is a bit off white, though.
One other thing... I don't know what you are painting but, try short almost stabbing brush strokes to avoid streaky or brush marks. Sounds wierd but it works!
Keith
Just so quickie advice on white paint. Here is what I have found anyway...
Humbrol flat white is chalky. Don't go there.
Tamiya flat white - I never had success with brushing Tamiya acrylics so forget it, too.
MM Flt enamel Flt white - Okay. Better than Hum or Tam.
Vallejo Foundation white - I recently started using this as a brush on primer for figures. It goes on very even and smooth with a WN sable brush. No streaks but at 1:1 dilution with distilled water I have to apply 2-3 coats for COMPLETELY even effect. No brush marks at all. It's tone is a bit off white, though.
One other thing... I don't know what you are painting but, try short almost stabbing brush strokes to avoid streaky or brush marks. Sounds wierd but it works!
Keith
Part-timer
Georgia, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, July 16, 2003 - 03:53 AM UTC
If you're not trying to cover large areas, but are instead just spotting, dry-brushing, or doing small lines, artist's acrylics are great. Golden or Liquitex brand Titanium white is relatively cheap (HUGE tube for
Part-timer
Georgia, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, July 16, 2003 - 03:55 AM UTC
YEESH, what happened to my post? It was all written before I hit submit; where did the second half go?
Here's the rest, best as I can remember: Artist's acryls give great coverage, although they show brush marks over large areas. You can fix the brush marks by thinning, but then coverage issues return.
Here's the rest, best as I can remember: Artist's acryls give great coverage, although they show brush marks over large areas. You can fix the brush marks by thinning, but then coverage issues return.
shonen_red
Metro Manila, Philippines
Joined: February 20, 2003
KitMaker: 5,762 posts
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Posted: Wednesday, July 16, 2003 - 04:06 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Sho-
Just so quickie advice on white paint. Here is what I have found anyway...
Humbrol flat white is chalky. Don't go there.
Tamiya flat white - I never had success with brushing Tamiya acrylics so forget it, too.
MM Flt enamel Flt white - Okay. Better than Hum or Tam.
Vallejo Foundation white - I recently started using this as a brush on primer for figures. It goes on very even and smooth with a WN sable brush. No streaks but at 1:1 dilution with distilled water I have to apply 2-3 coats for COMPLETELY even effect. No brush marks at all. It's tone is a bit off white, though.
One other thing... I don't know what you are painting but, try short almost stabbing brush strokes to avoid streaky or brush marks. Sounds wierd but it works!
Keith
Is it better to use acrylic white than enamel white? Is the process the same with both of them? I've tried acrylics while I was young (and before I become a serious modeler) and the result, disaster. Since then I never use it. If the painting technique the same as enamels, I'll try it but only this time around. How will I prevent it from washing away since it's acrylic?
shonen_red
Metro Manila, Philippines
Joined: February 20, 2003
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Posted: Wednesday, July 16, 2003 - 04:08 AM UTC
Quoted Text
YEESH, what happened to my post? It was all written before I hit submit; where did the second half go?
Here's the rest, best as I can remember: Artist's acryls give great coverage, although they show brush marks over large areas. You can fix the brush marks by thinning, but then coverage issues return.
How bout if I do a recoat? Will it still do the same effect?
JPeiper
California, United States
Joined: November 25, 2002
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Posted: Wednesday, July 16, 2003 - 04:16 AM UTC
Sho-
The enamel humbrol white dried chalky so I don;t use it. MM enamel is okay. But, seemed a bit thin straight out of the bottle.
Can I recommend that you try various dilutions? On a piece of scrap plastic try no dilution, 2:1, 1:1, 1:2, etc dilutions and see what works for you? I do dilution testing all the time. I cannot tell you the number of times I have prevented disaster by experimenting BEFORE I paint my model or figure.
Also, don't overload your brush with paint. Unload some of the paint on a very clean piece of cloth and then paint. I hope that makes sense.
Also, I want to stress the need for clean water (distilled) when diluting acrylics. Tap water is full of particulate that will result in a poor appearance when dry. fyi...
Let us know what works for you.
Also, the earlier advice about using artist oils diluted with Turpenoid is excellent.
Below is a figure I completed. I painted the white camo on his belt with WN Tit White and MM enamel white.
The enamel humbrol white dried chalky so I don;t use it. MM enamel is okay. But, seemed a bit thin straight out of the bottle.
Can I recommend that you try various dilutions? On a piece of scrap plastic try no dilution, 2:1, 1:1, 1:2, etc dilutions and see what works for you? I do dilution testing all the time. I cannot tell you the number of times I have prevented disaster by experimenting BEFORE I paint my model or figure.
Also, don't overload your brush with paint. Unload some of the paint on a very clean piece of cloth and then paint. I hope that makes sense.
Also, I want to stress the need for clean water (distilled) when diluting acrylics. Tap water is full of particulate that will result in a poor appearance when dry. fyi...
Let us know what works for you.
Also, the earlier advice about using artist oils diluted with Turpenoid is excellent.
Below is a figure I completed. I painted the white camo on his belt with WN Tit White and MM enamel white.
CRS
California, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, July 16, 2003 - 04:40 AM UTC
I think white paint was invented to build character.
I've had trouble with white paint even when painting the walls in my house. I've discovered the way to get smooth white finishes is several coats. I've painted some model parts 4 or 5 times to get the build up right. Use light coats and let each one dry all the way. I know this is hard as white usually come at or near the end of the detailing of the paint scheme, but multipule light coats has worked for me. I use this method no matter how the paint is applied spraycan, airbrush, or brush. Oh yeah, I use enamels. I haven't "mastered" acrylics.
Chuck
I've had trouble with white paint even when painting the walls in my house. I've discovered the way to get smooth white finishes is several coats. I've painted some model parts 4 or 5 times to get the build up right. Use light coats and let each one dry all the way. I know this is hard as white usually come at or near the end of the detailing of the paint scheme, but multipule light coats has worked for me. I use this method no matter how the paint is applied spraycan, airbrush, or brush. Oh yeah, I use enamels. I haven't "mastered" acrylics.
Chuck
TwistedFate
Virginia, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, July 16, 2003 - 05:12 AM UTC
CRS is spot on. Multiple coats is the way to go. I have yet to find a white that coats smooth on the first coat (that isn't a primer). Acrylics, as most of us know dry fast and can clump up if you rebrush them too soon. Thin them a bit a and try not to overpaint the same area. Allow to dry for several hours. They need to cure good before adding a second coat ot it will lift off when you brush over it again. I deliberately thin mine down so it won't cover in one coat. (Of course I deliberately avoid using white too, but sometimes you have too) A Celica I built for a client took 12 coats of white. It took the first five just to completely cover it good.
If you go into it knowing you will have to do multiple coats, you will have better results as you won't be trying to do it in one.
If you go into it knowing you will have to do multiple coats, you will have better results as you won't be trying to do it in one.