Finally I bought the kit, and I have a few questions after looking at the sprues:
1. The driver's compartment is lacking any kind of detail... I'd like to put the driver's figure in place, but I can't find any photos online of the interior. (Fortunately I saved the seat from a T-35...)
2. How should I replicate the studs on the boots of the sitting figure? (I have the German version. I just liked the composition on the box. I'll get the Russian, as well.)
3. What kind of aftermarket items do you think should I get? I really don't want to get a 3kg Voyager set that replaces all the armor plates with scale-correct eched brass, but if there's something that needs to be replaced, I'd like to hear your opinions. I'm perfectly glad building OOB.

Thank you.

Build it out of the box, and don't worry about it.

If you get hung up on an accurate SU-76, you will have to replace the suspension entirely. The roadwheels are too thin, accurate for a T-60 (apart from a poor profile) but not fat enough for a T-70M or SU-76. The track teeth not far enough apart, reflecting this. The idler is not bad, but not great either. There ARE no aftermarket replacements for the roadwheels, but MasterClub has a set of tracks.

As for the interior, there are lots of photos aroiund of SU-76s, and many still exist. Both Voennaya Letopis' and Eksmo have released new books on the type in the last couple of years. Most frets are geared to the awful Alan kit, but might be used. I don't think anyone has released a detailing set yet that is specifically for this kit. HTH

Scott Fraser

Andras
Are you still working on your 76 or have you finished it by now?
I'm working on one myself with Friulmodel tracks and RB barrel.



Just give me a shout if you think I might be able to assist.
Tony the Mutt

Thank you for the answer.
The barrel looks nice; perhaps it is indeed a good investment...
I haven't finished it yet -in fact, I won't be able to finish it for at least 3 years. I went back to gradschool, and now all my stuff is in boxes in my mother's house in Europe. I'm building up my stash as much as possible without painting, and then move on to the next one. (Every time I go home, I just grab one or two, and drop the half-built ones...) I just don't have space for a compressor, and a dedicated spraying area in the university dorm.
The kit went together quite well, but the wheels were an absolute dog. I cut them off with the suspension, and reglued them with a wire inserted, and the original holes filled. I'm also trying to build some basic interior so that I can use the driver figure.
I'm using the seat from a T-35 kit, but I'm not sure about one thing: were these seats adustable? You know, could the driver raise it?

Hey
I sent you a PM concerning this photo of how I handled the suspension problem.




Talk to Ya Later bud
Tony the Mutt

Royal Model now has a PE set for this kit, but they are the only company so far.
I don't know why the PE companies seem to be ignoring Miniart kits.

Thank you, Tony, for the idea... I'll have to cut the suspension off, and redo it properly, anyway. How high did you make the clearance from the ground?

(The lack of numbers on the sprues are very annoying; otherwise I found this kit very nice. I don't understand why AM companies ignore Miniart. And if you add the diorama products, the figures, they seem to be getting to be a pretty big player in the market. And affordable.)

I forgot Andras I had to go measure it and it looks like 6.5mm.
Here's the URL for the Royal canvas cover and the PE set.
http://www.royalmodel.com/it/

Tony the Mutt
PS: I suppose you already read this.
http://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/reviews/vehicles/miniart/miniart35036.html

Dear Tony,

I hope you are well. I finally got my degree and got a compressor... nothing can stop me now.


Can I link the photos of your jig into a review I am preparing of the SU-100Y kit by Ostmodels? (With credits, of course.)