What is the most effective colors you use to simulate wood? I'm using Model Master Acryls.
TIA

As on crates, tools, gun-butts, etc..... paint first in a light sand/linen/ yellow colour. Doesnt matter really and a bit of variation adds to the effect. Then OILS! Paint over the whole thing with burnt sienna. Let sit for 20 mins and start brushing of the oils with a stiff bristle brush in one direction. The simulates woodgrain. You will see when enough is lifted off. there will be thin lines of oil and the undercoat will be showing through. The oil colour will change as it dries and the undercoat will be stained. Looks nice but can be drybrushed and weathered afterwards .. maybe with some greys in worn areas. A very easy and effective method. Perfect when dealing with small pieces that dont have woodgrain engraved. This is the method I use and I have read a lot of articles where the authors have used the same method.

Thanks ...What about on large wooden panels as in the bed of a truck being all wooden slats and the doors to the cab, Same method?

Ne 1? sorry to bump but Im lost on this one.

I use a method somewhat different than Plasticbattle, altough it uses the same basic premise. I use all acrylics for mine. I start with a layer of light tan. As with Plasticbattle, perfect coverage won't be necessary. Then I layer on a reddish brown, light grey, and a darker brown using drybrushing with the brush being drug along the putative grain of the plastic. The order in which you apply the colors can be varried to get different colors of wood. If you accidentaly apply too much paint, resulting in a smooth even coat obliterating those beneath it, don't panic - just run a drier brush through it in the direction of the grain until you've got enough empty streaks for the older paint to show through.

Here's an example:




HTH. At least it's an option if you don't have any oils lying around, or don't want to wait for oil's long drying time.

I wouldn't worry about wood color on a truck bed or on cab doors, those would be painted the base color along with the rest of the vehicle. If you want areas where the paint is scraped off I would try Plastic's or Part-timers methods for those spots.

I have found the key to making realistic wood is layers.
Here is what I do - Put down a base light layer (inside wood), I use anything from Tamiya such as Buff, Wood, Earth, mix of any. Then I put on a dark coat (exterior wood) usually Tamiya Red Brown or Brown. I thin this a bit if I want the light to show through (thin with water is my method). I then will wash with either a black wash or a gray wash or a brown/black mix.
I will sometimes gently rub either sandpaper or steel wool on it to roughen it up a bit.

I am slowly moving to the 'Oil Side' and will be trying PB's method soon.

If the wood is suppossed to be unpainted, then I always, always try to replace the part with a scratchbuilt replica of real wood. If I have a plastic wooden box, I'll build a real wooden one identical to it and stain it. It works beautifully from front doors and furniture to axe handles and gun stocks.

I use Tamiya XF-57 Buff, XF-59 Desert Yellow, and XF-10 Flat Brown for different types of wood - all with Burnt Sienna oil washes...

Gunnie

I've got to say there is some good tips here. I think I'll try PlaticBattle's tip since I have the colors involved. I'm really kind of looking forward to it.