Hello every one
I’m building a winter diorama and next thing to do it’s to make road mud, but I don’t really know how to do good/ realistic mud. And when I try it just look strange, does anyone have some suggestions that can help me?
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how to make good and realistic mud

leo_swe

Joined: January 13, 2010
KitMaker: 3 posts
Armorama: 1 posts
Posted: Thursday, January 14, 2010 - 05:46 AM UTC

catman31

Joined: September 12, 2005
KitMaker: 166 posts
Armorama: 142 posts

Posted: Thursday, January 14, 2010 - 06:24 AM UTC
If you can get your hands on MIG's FAQ (frequently asked questions on AFV modeling) that would help as there is a chapter dedicated to the subject on recreating realistic mud. Also, I use MIG acrylic resin and mix it with pigments and gloss varnish (I use Vallejo) and work in on with a old, stiff brush. You can add dry pigment to it as it is drying for more layered (depth) effects.
I am no representative of MIG, just love the stuff. Oh, yeah - the DVD's are fantastic for this subject if you can get one (maybe Amazon has them cheap?) it's like the book comes alive.
Hope this helps. Mud can look great when done well; when done bad, it looks, well, really and obviously...bad.
I am no representative of MIG, just love the stuff. Oh, yeah - the DVD's are fantastic for this subject if you can get one (maybe Amazon has them cheap?) it's like the book comes alive.

Hope this helps. Mud can look great when done well; when done bad, it looks, well, really and obviously...bad.


chefchris

Joined: February 06, 2006
KitMaker: 1,544 posts
Armorama: 1,464 posts

Posted: Thursday, January 14, 2010 - 06:33 AM UTC
I second Felix's sentiments about the MIG products...... I love them. You could also use the Whiteglue/PVA method along with soapy water and pigments (or real dirt thats been sifted).
Chris
Chris

Pyromaniac

Joined: January 10, 2009
KitMaker: 375 posts
Armorama: 362 posts

Posted: Thursday, January 14, 2010 - 08:36 AM UTC
pigments wok well on vehicles, but for a dio this might not be practical. How big an area do ou need to make muddy? Personally i have never had much trouble using celluclay type products, or plaster. Then just paint and coat with future for really wet mud or matt varnish for damp mud. Adding static grass gives the impression of churned up turf.

Gundam-Mecha

Joined: August 05, 2009
KitMaker: 1,019 posts
Armorama: 933 posts

Posted: Thursday, January 14, 2010 - 11:39 AM UTC
I agree with Luke, if its specifically ground work you are after then another (and much less expensive) alternative to pigments would be more practical.
In my winter dioramas that have featured muddy and frozen roads I made the ground work mud from a mix of plaster, household filler, sand, grit, water and static flock all mixed together and painted onto the ground with a large old brush or a plastic fork. Once semi dry you can imprint surface details such as boot marks or tank tracks, and add extra texture by sprinkling on household filler powder to the wet surface. You can also texture with products like Vallejo pumice.
Once fully dry simply paint earth tones with an airbrush and give it a few coats of filters and some oil washes and you get a really good mud. You can also paint gloss varnish directly onto the dry surface for a wet look or use wet effects products like Vallejo Still water or the Woodland Scenics products.
I'd save the acrylic resin and pigments for vehicles, and for blending the vehicle into the terrain groundwork.
In my winter dioramas that have featured muddy and frozen roads I made the ground work mud from a mix of plaster, household filler, sand, grit, water and static flock all mixed together and painted onto the ground with a large old brush or a plastic fork. Once semi dry you can imprint surface details such as boot marks or tank tracks, and add extra texture by sprinkling on household filler powder to the wet surface. You can also texture with products like Vallejo pumice.
Once fully dry simply paint earth tones with an airbrush and give it a few coats of filters and some oil washes and you get a really good mud. You can also paint gloss varnish directly onto the dry surface for a wet look or use wet effects products like Vallejo Still water or the Woodland Scenics products.
I'd save the acrylic resin and pigments for vehicles, and for blending the vehicle into the terrain groundwork.

wwIImodeler

Joined: November 29, 2009
KitMaker: 33 posts
Armorama: 23 posts

Posted: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 - 02:02 PM UTC
you could just put some water on dirt enough so it goes doughy then mould into position


Gunner-steve

Joined: October 20, 2009
KitMaker: 60 posts
Armorama: 56 posts

Posted: Thursday, January 21, 2010 - 11:20 AM UTC
I recently did a WWI trench dio that required a lot of mud. Best "cheap but effective" method I found for a heavily textured mud was to mix fine sand (from the model train section at your LHS) with PVA glue and a cheap sample pot of appropriately coloured house paint from the hardware store. For a more churned mud look (roads and craters), I added more PVA glue and less of the sifted sand, it gives a nice squelchy mud sort of finish. When semi-dry you can add track or foot prints and when completely dry add pools of ground water.

Yoni_Lev

Joined: September 20, 2007
KitMaker: 861 posts
Armorama: 394 posts

Posted: Thursday, January 21, 2010 - 10:08 PM UTC
I stick with my old favorite, CelluClay, but as already stated, any household spackle or plaster mix works just as well for larger areas. You can mix plaster with acrylic or latex paint so you have a dark base color, with the added bonus that any chips you might experience later on don't show up as white. You can also mix in twigs, small stones, sand, etc., to get the effect you want.
As an aside, when I was a kid (chronologically speaking) we didn't have any of that stuff around the house. We did, however, have huge bottles of Elmer's glue. I would dig up some dirt from the backyard, sift it through an old window screen to get out the big bits, and mix it with water and a whopping dose of Elmer's glue. The resultant goop was easily spreadable and dried rock hard. Plus, it was already "dirt colored" and had all sorts of small gritty bits alreaded embedded in it. I won't say for sure that it looked 100% realistic, but I remember liking the result quite a bit back then.
-YL

m3orm5

Joined: December 22, 2009
KitMaker: 46 posts
Armorama: 42 posts

Posted: Sunday, January 24, 2010 - 06:09 PM UTC
Pardon me for butt-ing in but, would you guys post any of your "Mud Works"? I'm also building a winter dio. Just wanted to see the different effects of the different procedures.
Appreciate it a lot.
Appreciate it a lot.


Delta-Papa

Joined: October 27, 2009
KitMaker: 69 posts
Armorama: 44 posts

Posted: Sunday, January 24, 2010 - 06:50 PM UTC
I second m3orm5's request!
Pyromaniac

Joined: January 10, 2009
KitMaker: 375 posts
Armorama: 362 posts

Posted: Monday, January 25, 2010 - 09:09 AM UTC
And i'll third that


m3orm5

Joined: December 22, 2009
KitMaker: 46 posts
Armorama: 42 posts

Posted: Wednesday, February 03, 2010 - 12:44 PM UTC
Bump. Any takers?


captkf

Joined: May 18, 2008
KitMaker: 71 posts
Armorama: 70 posts

Posted: Friday, February 05, 2010 - 03:30 PM UTC
Here you go guys,
Here's a couple pictures of one of my first dioramas I did some thirty years ago. [ It's the only one that survived from that long ago] I used celluclay for the mud. Painted it dark earth color. Than used a really light colored gloss wood stain to get the wet look. [ I believe it was natural pine colored]

Have Fun
Kirk
Here's a couple pictures of one of my first dioramas I did some thirty years ago. [ It's the only one that survived from that long ago] I used celluclay for the mud. Painted it dark earth color. Than used a really light colored gloss wood stain to get the wet look. [ I believe it was natural pine colored]



Have Fun
Kirk
Pyromaniac

Joined: January 10, 2009
KitMaker: 375 posts
Armorama: 362 posts

Posted: Saturday, February 06, 2010 - 02:56 AM UTC
nice dio. very funny

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