Hi all,
Ive just begun to strip down some older kits to use for spares on newer projects. Ive stripped off the old paint by placing the model in a plastic bag filled with oven cleaner and leaving it overnight, this has been really effective.
Does anyone have any tips on how to remove wheels, tools etc without cutting or snapping them off?

Regards Paul

I had to remove a part from a kit just recently..I think the modeler had used the tube glue, but I tried using the debonder for CA glue, it worked, but you have to be careful cause the debonder can soften the plastic. any idea what kind of glue was used?

Hi Tim,
Yes, it was Revell Contacta, liquid glue for plastics.
Regards Paul

I have seen somewhere (cannot remember where) that placing the model in the freezer can help with breaking a model into its various parts.

Thanks for that Darren, i'll give it a try. My old Pz4 is sitting on the wifes strawberry gateau and ice-cream as i speak
Regards Paul

Placing models in the freezer breaks the glue, if not it certainly weakens it. A very safe way of removing glue, safer than debonder.
A nice Pz4 ice cream with some ammunition as a topping - yummy
Cheers

Loobes

Adding Testor's liquid cement to the joint helps quite a bit too.

Freeze it.

I would assume longer = better but 2 hours did the trick for me the other day.

Oven cleaner eh? Did you actually fill the bag or just spray some inside and let the fumes do the work?

Don

If a liquid glue was used, it actually disolves the plastic so the two piece fuse together. Short of cutting them apart this is little that can be done if parts are well joined. When salvaging a built-up kit, I try to pick pieces that can easily be replaced. For instance the axles could be cut and replaced with a piece of styrene or brass rod. In other instances I salvage select parts to take two kits and make one. Or rob from your spares.

If the glue forms a bond between the two parts, essentially filling the gap, debonders can work well. Freezing only works when the glue and plastic expand or contract at different rates. I've had little luck with it except on ancient Testors tube glue that never really bonded to the plastic. Many cyanoacrylate or super glues will fail in shear so carefully prying at a part may help.

Odds are pretty good you are going to replace something. Its a very poorly built kit and rare instance where the fall apart. Which reminds me. Soaking in oven cleaner has been known to break bonds as well. It can be a slow process, taking a week or two.

But in all honesty, wheels off axles are the worst to get apart without damage.

I'm currently rebuilding an old T-34 from Zvezda and hat to remove the rear plate for making some modifications. The kit was assemble using Testros cemet, I used Testors Liquid cement for unassembling, I poured the liquid cement on the gaps, waited a time and then the pieces where loose enough to disassemble. I know ahother way, but it is a little risky and depends on the plastic quality... Here in Perú we have two kind of thinners, one is called "aguarráz" (mild thinner, like Mineral Spirits) and the other is simply called "thinner". The difference between them? The "thinner" is more powerful, it melts any kind of plastic, so it is not recommended, I use the "aguarraz" for unnasembling larger pieces, just dip the kit or parts into the "aguarráz" and leave it for two or three hours and it will loose the pieces and peel off the paint, but as I mentioned, It may depend on the plastic quality, if it is a bad quality plastic like older russian kits, it will melt it anyway so be careful with the time. Best regards.

José

Hi Don,

I just covered the model in an oven cleaner called 'Mr Muscle'. Its a foam that expands, then I placed it in a plastic carrier bag and sealed it overnight. The next day I placed the kit in the sink and with the use of an old toothbrush and a bit of running water, scrubbed off the old paint. It works really well for acrylic and enamel paints.
Just make sure you have plenty of ventilation and a pair of rubber gloves!

Regards Paul

Hi,

I have used Simple Green, an all-purpose cleaner and it works perfect. Got this advise from the forum as well. Immerse the model in a tub, leave it overnight, then wash it off with a soft brush. I believe its a better alternative to oven cleaner as its non-toxic and bio-degradable. Has a better odor too -- smells like soda.

Have read some folks use brake fluid, though haven't tried it as yet.

Cheers,

Tat

Hey Paul, All good ideas, but when it comes to real small parts like tools and such, I use a chisel edge blade and work it under side to side till I shave off the part. Some may curl due to the sawing motion but I have been able to flatten them again with gentile pressure. Oven cleaner is great stuff. Used to have a few cans in the fantazy factory till the wife grabed it for the domestic theater of operations.

I've used brake fluid with some success, but generally recommend against it. I had an Italeri kit that seemed to absorb some of the fluid and would never take paint well after that. Yes, I cleaned it, but it was never the same again.

Simple Green or purple Castrol cleaner also can work. I use a Walmart brand generic for the Castrol purple cleaner most of the time. But I always advise testing any new method. I would also advise against using many of the stripping methods with resin parts. You might find yourself with a glob of useless goo. A friend had an $80 resin kit that wound up a useless blob when he stripping paint the same way as any other styrene kit.

Using a liquid solvent that doesn't flash off quickly to soften the parts isn't a bad idea. You might want to carefully cut a little channel to allow the fluid to sit in so that it doesn't run everywhere.