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Яusso-Soviэt Forum: Cold War Soviet Armor
For discussions related to cold war era Russo-Soviet armor.
BMP-1 & BMP-2 lower hulls
afv_rob
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Posted: Thursday, February 18, 2010 - 01:44 AM UTC
Is the lower hull (suspension, torsio bars etc) on the BMP-2 the same as a BMP-1? Reason I ask is that I bought a DML BMP-1 kit, which had in it an AEF BMP-2 upper hull (reasonably well cast i might add) SP design BMP-2 turret, and AA correct BMP 2 road wheels. Therefor It seems logical that I build a BMP-2, but I just want to check I can use the lower hull from the BMP-1 kit.
HeavyArty
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Posted: Thursday, February 18, 2010 - 03:19 AM UTC
Yes, the lower hulls are the same on both versions. Basically, so is the upper hull. The biggest difference is the turret.

The BMP 1 has a single-man turret with a 73mm high-velocity gun.

The BMP 2 has a larger, two-man turret with a 30mm auto-cannon.
afv_rob
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Posted: Thursday, February 18, 2010 - 04:20 AM UTC
Thanks Gino

BMP-2 upper hull is significantly different though, 2 rear hatches on the BMP-2 instead of 4 on the BMP-1, the commanders hatch behind the driver is also different, and there are a number of minor smaller differences too.
HeavyArty
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Posted: Thursday, February 18, 2010 - 04:35 AM UTC

Quoted Text

BMP-2 upper hull is significantly different though, 2 rear hatches on the BMP-2 instead of 4 on the BMP-1, the commanders hatch behind the driver is also different, and there are a number of minor smaller differences too.



Yup, thats why I said "basically" the same. It is modified to accept the larger turret, but is "basically" the same shape, angles, etc.
Jacques
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Posted: Thursday, February 18, 2010 - 01:51 PM UTC
Gotta disagree Gino...it is more than basically.

Basically, they use the same LOWER hull/running gear.

Otherwise...

The Turret is completely different (2 man turret with 30mm autocannon and integrated AT-4/5 launcher).

The upper hull is completely different: the number of doors on the roof (2), the cant of the two upper doors (Parallel instead of angled), the placement of firing ports, and the placement of some hatches (and some of the shapesof those hatches, such as the compartment by the drivers hatch). Many small details are also rearranged or changed.

NOW, as it pertains to the model question (I can be such a stinker): Yes, the LOWER hulls of BMP-1 and BMP-2 kits from Esci/Ertl/AMT and DML/Italeri/Zvezda/Revell can all be interchanged. Can't wait to see your build.
Logan
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Posted: Friday, February 19, 2010 - 02:05 AM UTC
HI

Yaaaaaa basically the same if you ignore things like the BRM or the multitude of variants of the -1

Tom
mladas
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Jihocesky Kraj, Czech Republic
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Posted: Friday, February 19, 2010 - 11:23 AM UTC
The lower hull BMP-1 is different from lower hull BMP-2 in details.But the bodies of hulls are the same...

http://gallery.kitmaker.net/showgallery.php/cat/25392
BMP-1
I. fender: iron-plate
II. driving - wheel: incised between cogs (sometimes driving - wheel were mounted on BMP-2)
III. driving - wheel only one suspension !!!
IV. BMP-1 track: screwed connection - nut bolt, only BMP-1
V. BMP-1 track: the trackprint is straight, only BMP-1


BMP-2
I. fender: extensive,hollow block
II. driving - wheel: any incised between cogs (it isn't possible to combine this wheel with track BMP-1)
III. BMP-2 has two suspension !!!
IV. BMP-2 track:
screwed connection: screwed bolt + headless screw (double-end stud)
it could be used on BMP-1
V. BMP-2 track : the trackprint is sloping


In my opinion without suspension (second road wheels),
it is possible to use BMP-1 driving - wheel with BMP-2 track.
After this you make typical BMP-2
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mladas
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Posted: Friday, February 19, 2010 - 09:03 PM UTC
There is BMP-1 in the photos





-fixed
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mladas
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Posted: Saturday, February 20, 2010 - 09:46 PM UTC
There is BMP-2 in the photos


afv_rob
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Posted: Sunday, February 21, 2010 - 11:49 PM UTC
Thanks very much for the info Petr, those pics are very useful. It seems some work will be required to the make the BMP-1 hull a 2 hull, luckily I have some of the suspension arms and other bits from a BMP-2 kit. As to the tracks I will use masterclub BMP-2 resin tracks, and the DML BMP-2 side skirts are wrong anyway so probably wont bother fitting any.
bison126
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Posted: Monday, February 22, 2010 - 02:37 AM UTC
Hi Rob,
concerning the lower hull, the main visible difference is the additional shcok absorber as already mentioned. The rest is more or less visible. The MasterClub tracks are beautiful but really narrower than the DML ones. I haven't tried it so far so if you already made a dry fit on the DML idlers could you comment on the fit. The MC sprockets are of the newer type.

Concerning the AEF upper hull, I'm sorry to tell it's quite inaccurate. AEF fixed the angle of the troop compartment hatches but omitted to fix a lot of other flaws. They just made a resin copy of the DML hull.

You can look at my BLOG here to see what you'll have to do to get it more accurate.

Olivier
afv_rob
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Posted: Monday, February 22, 2010 - 03:09 AM UTC
Yes im aware of the issues with the AEF upper hull Olivier, your excellent build blog has been my main source of reference so far! The kit i picked up just had it in the box so I figured I might as well use it. The hardest part on any plastic hull to correct would be the rear hatch alignment, so it seems this reasonably well cast AEF hull is an easier option than trying to correct a pastic upper hull, I just have to make all the other fixes!

As to the tracks, they havent arrived yet so I cant comment on them, when they get here i'll let you know. I will be using Accurate armor resin wheels, so hopefully they will fit!
bison126
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Posted: Monday, February 22, 2010 - 04:29 AM UTC
I just checked the fit over Panzershop idlers (resin copies of DML ones) and the idlers are too large by nearly 1mm. The good news is that you can easily thin the idlers hub "inner faces", I hope it makes sense.

The MC tracks are really nicely cast with excellent details down to cast numbers on the links ! They assemble without any effort and need virtually no cleaning work.

Concerning the AEF upper hull, it's a starting base and thanks to the resin is easier to work with than a plastic one. It's just a pity AEF didn't engrave the correct access hatches here and there and just copy the DML part. But as you got it in your package, you didn't loose a lot ;-)

Olivier
TonyDz
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Posted: Monday, February 22, 2010 - 05:00 AM UTC
If you use the Master Club road wheels,, the set comes with the correct idler wheels. As cheap as they are, they are a worth while upgrade, and much better than AA's set or DML's.
bison126
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Posted: Tuesday, February 23, 2010 - 08:45 PM UTC
Sorry Tony but not all the MC refs come with idlers. Mine (MC135042CL) only comes with late sprockets and the tracks are too narrow to fit the DML idlers without some sanding of the inner faces of the idlers hub.

Olivier
Gundam-Mecha
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Posted: Tuesday, February 23, 2010 - 11:57 PM UTC
My set of Masterclub wheels came with the idlers and the track set came with the sprockets.

I got my set just a few weeks ago. I guess that most of the recent versions must have them included.

I agree with Tony they really are worth it, and I found they fitted onto the Zvezda/DML lower Hull with no problems. I'm also using the MC tracks as well and agree that that the detail is just awesome!
TonyDz
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Posted: Friday, February 26, 2010 - 04:57 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Sorry Tony but not all the MC refs come with idlers. Mine (MC135042CL) only comes with late sprockets and the tracks are too narrow to fit the DML idlers without some sanding of the inner faces of the idlers hub.



As Jon pointed out, the sprockets come with the tracks and the idler comes with the wheel set. 2 different sets.
bison126
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Posted: Saturday, February 27, 2010 - 02:44 AM UTC

Quoted Text

As Jon pointed out, the sprockets come with the tracks and the idler comes with the wheel set. 2 different sets.



Haha, this is what is called business ! Thanks for the point.
However the idlers are not too hard to modify which is not the case with the sprockets.

Olivier
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