another update, I've been really busy (not doing my model!!!) had serious car trouble. But anyway. I've started to scratchbuld the engine compartment, and was wondering if anyone knew or had details of the fuel tank/ cap.
Thanks
Paul.
PS.. Will download photos tomorrow.
Hosted by Darren Baker
Stug III Ausf G
newdriftking
England - North West, United Kingdom
Joined: September 20, 2008
KitMaker: 365 posts
Armorama: 283 posts
Joined: September 20, 2008
KitMaker: 365 posts
Armorama: 283 posts
Posted: Monday, May 17, 2010 - 09:50 AM UTC
Hohenstaufen
England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: December 13, 2004
KitMaker: 2,192 posts
Armorama: 1,615 posts
Joined: December 13, 2004
KitMaker: 2,192 posts
Armorama: 1,615 posts
Posted: Friday, May 28, 2010 - 07:56 AM UTC
Paul,
I've only just spotted this thread and can add some relevant info, hope it's not too late to be of use!
There were at least three panzer units in Normandy which had two of their tank companies (the 7th & 8th companies) replaced by Stugs due to shortage of PzIV. They were 2SS (Das Reich), 9SS (Hohenstaufen) & 10SS (Frundsberg). I have the unit history of 9SS, and it clearly shows non-Zimmerit covered vehicles during working up in 1943 so I suspect the same would be true for 10SS as well. They were supplied to form a Stug Abteilung as 9SS & 10SS were initially formed as Panzergrenadier divisions, but almost immediately expanded to full Panzerdivisions, and due to a shortage of turreted tanks, the Stugs went into the Panzerregiment. These vehicles were taken to Tarnopol in 1944, and returned to Normandy in late June. They were not handed over in Russia, as the II SS Pz Korps was moved from reserve in the Ukraine directly to Normandy to deliver a full corps counter attack to drive the Allies into the sea. This did not develop due to Operation Epsom.
Since there were very few replacement vehicles issued during the Normandy fighting, I think you could make a good case for Stug Gs without Zimmerit in these units.
Sources:9SS Panzer Division, Furbringer
Ruckmarsh, German retreat from Normandy, Pallaud, which shows a Stug, probably from 9SS or 2SS which doesn't appear to have Zimmerit. However since this is a destroyed vehicle, the Zimm may have burnt off.
I've only just spotted this thread and can add some relevant info, hope it's not too late to be of use!
There were at least three panzer units in Normandy which had two of their tank companies (the 7th & 8th companies) replaced by Stugs due to shortage of PzIV. They were 2SS (Das Reich), 9SS (Hohenstaufen) & 10SS (Frundsberg). I have the unit history of 9SS, and it clearly shows non-Zimmerit covered vehicles during working up in 1943 so I suspect the same would be true for 10SS as well. They were supplied to form a Stug Abteilung as 9SS & 10SS were initially formed as Panzergrenadier divisions, but almost immediately expanded to full Panzerdivisions, and due to a shortage of turreted tanks, the Stugs went into the Panzerregiment. These vehicles were taken to Tarnopol in 1944, and returned to Normandy in late June. They were not handed over in Russia, as the II SS Pz Korps was moved from reserve in the Ukraine directly to Normandy to deliver a full corps counter attack to drive the Allies into the sea. This did not develop due to Operation Epsom.
Since there were very few replacement vehicles issued during the Normandy fighting, I think you could make a good case for Stug Gs without Zimmerit in these units.
Sources:9SS Panzer Division, Furbringer
Ruckmarsh, German retreat from Normandy, Pallaud, which shows a Stug, probably from 9SS or 2SS which doesn't appear to have Zimmerit. However since this is a destroyed vehicle, the Zimm may have burnt off.
newdriftking
England - North West, United Kingdom
Joined: September 20, 2008
KitMaker: 365 posts
Armorama: 283 posts
Joined: September 20, 2008
KitMaker: 365 posts
Armorama: 283 posts
Posted: Friday, May 28, 2010 - 09:49 AM UTC
Steve, thanks for the info. I have decided to place my Stug in a refit situ.
I'm just starting on some of the groundwork and buildings.. This will be a barn of some sort where the Germans have ammo/fuel and food stored for pickup.
There will be a spg crew loading new shells....
I'm just starting on some of the groundwork and buildings.. This will be a barn of some sort where the Germans have ammo/fuel and food stored for pickup.
There will be a spg crew loading new shells....
gremlinz
Hamilton, New Zealand
Joined: February 07, 2009
KitMaker: 795 posts
Armorama: 743 posts
Joined: February 07, 2009
KitMaker: 795 posts
Armorama: 743 posts
Posted: Sunday, May 30, 2010 - 10:38 AM UTC
If it helps any on the zim-v-no zim debate Panzerwrecks No. 8 has a photo on page 34 of a Sturmgeschutz III Ausf. G destroyed near Caen in July 1944 that is unzimmed. This also looks to have the rundumfeuer though can't be 100% certain as it is obscured but what you can see does look to be the rundumfeuer shield.
I'm working on a Diorama of a 2SS DAS Reich StuG unit undergoing refit south east of Bordeaux close to Montaubaun where I want to depict a mix of newly arrived factory zim vehicles as well as older vehicles being zimmerited as several of the photos I've got show vehicles that have neither factory pattern but what apperas to be a rough field application.
I decided as I couldn't fine any hard and fast evidence either way to go with the artistic liberty of having some vehicles that were in action until their withdrawl from the east in December 43 and March 44 not being zimmed until their rest and refit in France, though in all likelyhood most were probably done by then.
I'm waitng on the final book in Otto Weidinger's Bio to be translated into English before I fine tune it in case there is something in there that is pertinant.
I'm working on a Diorama of a 2SS DAS Reich StuG unit undergoing refit south east of Bordeaux close to Montaubaun where I want to depict a mix of newly arrived factory zim vehicles as well as older vehicles being zimmerited as several of the photos I've got show vehicles that have neither factory pattern but what apperas to be a rough field application.
I decided as I couldn't fine any hard and fast evidence either way to go with the artistic liberty of having some vehicles that were in action until their withdrawl from the east in December 43 and March 44 not being zimmed until their rest and refit in France, though in all likelyhood most were probably done by then.
I'm waitng on the final book in Otto Weidinger's Bio to be translated into English before I fine tune it in case there is something in there that is pertinant.
newdriftking
England - North West, United Kingdom
Joined: September 20, 2008
KitMaker: 365 posts
Armorama: 283 posts
Joined: September 20, 2008
KitMaker: 365 posts
Armorama: 283 posts
Posted: Wednesday, June 02, 2010 - 10:04 AM UTC
thanks for all the responses guys.
I've been having trouble with my camera! So I've taken a couple of pics with my phone (apologies now for quality)
I've been having trouble with my camera! So I've taken a couple of pics with my phone (apologies now for quality)
newdriftking
England - North West, United Kingdom
Joined: September 20, 2008
KitMaker: 365 posts
Armorama: 283 posts
Joined: September 20, 2008
KitMaker: 365 posts
Armorama: 283 posts
Posted: Friday, June 04, 2010 - 08:51 AM UTC
Ok another update!
I've been a busy little bee today.....
Added a couple of extra bits PE on today (what a pain in the ar$e they are!)
Also started making the barn that the ammo etc will be stored in.
Also! started scratch building the petrol tank in the engine compartment. Just need to work out the filler cap etc.
Sorry for quality of pics.. camera is bust!
I've been a busy little bee today.....
Added a couple of extra bits PE on today (what a pain in the ar$e they are!)
Also started making the barn that the ammo etc will be stored in.
Also! started scratch building the petrol tank in the engine compartment. Just need to work out the filler cap etc.
Sorry for quality of pics.. camera is bust!
newdriftking
England - North West, United Kingdom
Joined: September 20, 2008
KitMaker: 365 posts
Armorama: 283 posts
Joined: September 20, 2008
KitMaker: 365 posts
Armorama: 283 posts
Posted: Monday, December 27, 2010 - 11:16 AM UTC
Just a quick update, I've finally managed to get some time on this model again!
Bought the CMK interior and decided to start putting it together!! What a mistake that was......
I've decided that fiddley little resin parts and fat fingers are not a good combination!
I have managed however to install the rear wall, and put together the gun breech. I've also decided that because the roof will still be on in the dio, that there is no need to risk my sanity and the resin parts and not install the complete interior.
I'll add pictures tomorrow, before and after painting.
Thanks
Bought the CMK interior and decided to start putting it together!! What a mistake that was......
I've decided that fiddley little resin parts and fat fingers are not a good combination!
I have managed however to install the rear wall, and put together the gun breech. I've also decided that because the roof will still be on in the dio, that there is no need to risk my sanity and the resin parts and not install the complete interior.
I'll add pictures tomorrow, before and after painting.
Thanks
Nito74
Lisboa, Portugal
Joined: March 04, 2008
KitMaker: 5,386 posts
Armorama: 4,727 posts
Joined: March 04, 2008
KitMaker: 5,386 posts
Armorama: 4,727 posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 28, 2010 - 07:54 AM UTC
Great work so far on that build, I will keep an eye here !!
I found for the Tamyia Stug, several sets from ATAK with Zimmerit, PE from Aber and resin extra-armour.
http://www.atakmodel.com.pl/pliki/instr/35a07_str1.pdf
http://www.atakmodel.com.pl/pliki/instr/35a07_str2.pdf
and also
"http://static.istore.pl/istore/6942/photos/original/1280250.jpg"
I'm considering getting one of these soon...
I found for the Tamyia Stug, several sets from ATAK with Zimmerit, PE from Aber and resin extra-armour.
http://www.atakmodel.com.pl/pliki/instr/35a07_str1.pdf
http://www.atakmodel.com.pl/pliki/instr/35a07_str2.pdf
and also
"http://static.istore.pl/istore/6942/photos/original/1280250.jpg"
I'm considering getting one of these soon...
Biggles2
Quebec, Canada
Joined: January 01, 2004
KitMaker: 7,600 posts
Armorama: 6,110 posts
Joined: January 01, 2004
KitMaker: 7,600 posts
Armorama: 6,110 posts
Posted: Thursday, December 30, 2010 - 06:29 AM UTC
The Tamiya Stug lll is OK as a beginner's model, but a bit disappointing as far as accuracy is concerned. The best choice for a Normandy campaign Stug would be Dragon's StuH lll with zimmerit. It's boxed as a 'Sturm-Haubize', but actually also contains the parts for the 75mm gun version. The model also has a partial interior. Not to mention the fact that the model is more accurate and detailed than the Tamiya. But, you've already started... If you want to use Fallschimjager to accompany your Stug Dragon has a more recent set called 'Casino defenders', (no, they're not bouncers at a gambling establishment ) which are better sculpted than previous releases.
newdriftking
England - North West, United Kingdom
Joined: September 20, 2008
KitMaker: 365 posts
Armorama: 283 posts
Joined: September 20, 2008
KitMaker: 365 posts
Armorama: 283 posts
Posted: Thursday, December 30, 2010 - 09:16 AM UTC
Biggles,
Thanks for you input, I decided sometime ago to place the Stug in a refit situation and am looking at doing something like this photo.
Thanks for you input, I decided sometime ago to place the Stug in a refit situation and am looking at doing something like this photo.
Biggles2
Quebec, Canada
Joined: January 01, 2004
KitMaker: 7,600 posts
Armorama: 6,110 posts
Joined: January 01, 2004
KitMaker: 7,600 posts
Armorama: 6,110 posts
Posted: Friday, December 31, 2010 - 05:22 PM UTC
If you can still find the original Italeri field workshop kit there are a lot of useful parts as seen in the posted pic such as the overhead winch, welding equipment, and assorted accessories. Tamiya has reboxed the very same kit added a couple of US figs and doubled the price...typical!
newdriftking
England - North West, United Kingdom
Joined: September 20, 2008
KitMaker: 365 posts
Armorama: 283 posts
Joined: September 20, 2008
KitMaker: 365 posts
Armorama: 283 posts
Posted: Friday, December 31, 2010 - 10:19 PM UTC
I've looked for the Italeri kit, and at the moment its quite expensive. Only managed to find them on Ebay and they are in the US.
I'm gonna look at trying to scratchbuild a couple of the items maybe, an concentrate on getting the groundwork etc sorted before putting everything else together.
I've also got another dio to finish!
I'm gonna look at trying to scratchbuild a couple of the items maybe, an concentrate on getting the groundwork etc sorted before putting everything else together.
I've also got another dio to finish!
newdriftking
England - North West, United Kingdom
Joined: September 20, 2008
KitMaker: 365 posts
Armorama: 283 posts
Joined: September 20, 2008
KitMaker: 365 posts
Armorama: 283 posts
Posted: Friday, February 18, 2011 - 09:56 AM UTC
Well I've finally got the final piece to start (finish) this dio.
Will be represented as a supply truck with the tank crew loading the Stug with ammo and MG42 ammo.
Unfortunately its gonna get chopped up! As I don't want to use all of it....
Hopefully I'l have pictures soon.
Will be represented as a supply truck with the tank crew loading the Stug with ammo and MG42 ammo.
Unfortunately its gonna get chopped up! As I don't want to use all of it....
Hopefully I'l have pictures soon.
newdriftking
England - North West, United Kingdom
Joined: September 20, 2008
KitMaker: 365 posts
Armorama: 283 posts
Joined: September 20, 2008
KitMaker: 365 posts
Armorama: 283 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 21, 2011 - 10:36 PM UTC
Well, manage to get some of the groundwork done for the base - this is real earth sprinkled on the base using wood glue to fix.
just gotta work out the best way to do the hedge!
just gotta work out the best way to do the hedge!
newdriftking
England - North West, United Kingdom
Joined: September 20, 2008
KitMaker: 365 posts
Armorama: 283 posts
Joined: September 20, 2008
KitMaker: 365 posts
Armorama: 283 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 27, 2011 - 07:03 AM UTC
finally got the modelscene grass down, not sure if it looks ok, just waiting to finish the model now....
newdriftking
England - North West, United Kingdom
Joined: September 20, 2008
KitMaker: 365 posts
Armorama: 283 posts
Joined: September 20, 2008
KitMaker: 365 posts
Armorama: 283 posts
Posted: Monday, July 25, 2011 - 09:07 AM UTC
Not done many updates to this blog..
Until now....
I've now managed to put some paint on the Stug...
and done a little work on the base..
Until now....
I've now managed to put some paint on the Stug...
and done a little work on the base..
newdriftking
England - North West, United Kingdom
Joined: September 20, 2008
KitMaker: 365 posts
Armorama: 283 posts
Joined: September 20, 2008
KitMaker: 365 posts
Armorama: 283 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 09, 2011 - 07:11 AM UTC
Ok, so I've got the paint on and the rotbraun part of the camo....
Now my question to the masses, is do I put a layer of future on it now or do I leave it until after I've added my washes?
thanks
Now my question to the masses, is do I put a layer of future on it now or do I leave it until after I've added my washes?
thanks
newdriftking
England - North West, United Kingdom
Joined: September 20, 2008
KitMaker: 365 posts
Armorama: 283 posts
Joined: September 20, 2008
KitMaker: 365 posts
Armorama: 283 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 09, 2011 - 09:42 PM UTC
here is the painted stug,with rotbraun camo stripe,
Matt182
United Kingdom
Joined: May 20, 2010
KitMaker: 269 posts
Armorama: 243 posts
Joined: May 20, 2010
KitMaker: 269 posts
Armorama: 243 posts
Posted: Wednesday, August 10, 2011 - 01:35 AM UTC
Nice camo Paul and a nice idea for a dio.
For the future, you need to apply this before the washes. The whole idea of the future is to create a smooth surface so the wash runs easily into and around the details. If you apply the wash onto bare paint it will stain it and darken the colour.
I would suggest to do the following. Paint all the tools and equipment in their basic colours. Then apply a coat a future. Add all the decals and then another coat of future over the decals. Once it is all dry you can then start the washes.
Applying future first, then placing the decals and then coating it again in future helps to blend the decals into the paintwork.
Hope that helps
Matt
For the future, you need to apply this before the washes. The whole idea of the future is to create a smooth surface so the wash runs easily into and around the details. If you apply the wash onto bare paint it will stain it and darken the colour.
I would suggest to do the following. Paint all the tools and equipment in their basic colours. Then apply a coat a future. Add all the decals and then another coat of future over the decals. Once it is all dry you can then start the washes.
Applying future first, then placing the decals and then coating it again in future helps to blend the decals into the paintwork.
Hope that helps
Matt
newdriftking
England - North West, United Kingdom
Joined: September 20, 2008
KitMaker: 365 posts
Armorama: 283 posts
Joined: September 20, 2008
KitMaker: 365 posts
Armorama: 283 posts
Posted: Saturday, August 27, 2011 - 08:31 PM UTC
Ok so I keep hitting a "plateau" with my models, but managed to change the base of the dio.
At the moment the Opel Maultier wont be apart of the dio as I had a little accident the other day and dropped it and all the suspension set up is a little bashed up!
So until I can get it sorted I'll be replacing it with an ammo/fuel dump.
At the moment the Opel Maultier wont be apart of the dio as I had a little accident the other day and dropped it and all the suspension set up is a little bashed up!
So until I can get it sorted I'll be replacing it with an ammo/fuel dump.
newdriftking
England - North West, United Kingdom
Joined: September 20, 2008
KitMaker: 365 posts
Armorama: 283 posts
Joined: September 20, 2008
KitMaker: 365 posts
Armorama: 283 posts
Posted: Monday, August 29, 2011 - 01:30 AM UTC
Managed to get some ground cover in the clay track impressions, let's hope it looks ok when its dry!1
ericadeane
Michigan, United States
Joined: October 28, 2002
KitMaker: 4,021 posts
Armorama: 3,947 posts
Joined: October 28, 2002
KitMaker: 4,021 posts
Armorama: 3,947 posts
Posted: Monday, August 29, 2011 - 05:24 AM UTC
Nice work! May I make a comment about your camo stripes, however? They exhibit what I call the "hand of god" camo style. I think one would be hard pressed to find an actual tank which was painted like that. Why? Because it would require a workman to diligently spray a straight line, stop, climb to another area of the tank, continue spraying, then climb over to the other side, and then finish the line. When you paint camo stripes, look at the vehicle from ground level -- not at 45 degrees from above. Then imagine having to haul around a paint gun attached to a heavy hose. That's why you see lots of "small" strokes in actual tank's snaking camo lines. Hope this makes sense.
newdriftking
England - North West, United Kingdom
Joined: September 20, 2008
KitMaker: 365 posts
Armorama: 283 posts
Joined: September 20, 2008
KitMaker: 365 posts
Armorama: 283 posts
Posted: Monday, August 29, 2011 - 07:05 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Nice work! May I make a comment about your camo stripes, however? They exhibit what I call the "hand of god" camo style. I think one would be hard pressed to find an actual tank which was painted like that. Why? Because it would require a workman to diligently spray a straight line, stop, climb to another area of the tank, continue spraying, then climb over to the other side, and then finish the line. When you paint camo stripes, look at the vehicle from ground level -- not at 45 degrees from above. Then imagine having to haul around a paint gun attached to a heavy hose. That's why you see lots of "small" strokes in actual tank's snaking camo lines. Hope this makes sense.
I had noticed that with the camo "stripes" and hopefully the weathering will tone it down if not hide it..... The 2 most visable stripes were airbrushing accidents! Were I got a little to close to the model.
At the moment I'll be leaving it unless I decide to give it one last blast with.the airbrush and cover them up totally...
newdriftking
England - North West, United Kingdom
Joined: September 20, 2008
KitMaker: 365 posts
Armorama: 283 posts
Joined: September 20, 2008
KitMaker: 365 posts
Armorama: 283 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 30, 2011 - 12:47 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Nice work! May I make a comment about your camo stripes, however? They exhibit what I call the "hand of god" camo style. I think one would be hard pressed to find an actual tank which was painted like that. Why? Because it would require a workman to diligently spray a straight line, stop, climb to another area of the tank, continue spraying, then climb over to the other side, and then finish the line. When you paint camo stripes, look at the vehicle from ground level -- not at 45 degrees from above. Then imagine having to haul around a paint gun attached to a heavy hose. That's why you see lots of "small" strokes in actual tank's snaking camo lines. Hope this makes sense.
After pondering over your comments I decided to......
Give the Stug a quick blast with the dunkelgelb.... And now a coating of future...
newdriftking
England - North West, United Kingdom
Joined: September 20, 2008
KitMaker: 365 posts
Armorama: 283 posts
Joined: September 20, 2008
KitMaker: 365 posts
Armorama: 283 posts
Posted: Sunday, September 04, 2011 - 10:00 AM UTC
Ok so it's slow going on the Stug at the moment!
Managed to get the decals on (all 3 of them!)
Hopefully sometime this week I'll be doing test runs for my weathering.
Managed to get the decals on (all 3 of them!)
Hopefully sometime this week I'll be doing test runs for my weathering.