Hello. Let me introduce you to my recent completion of the model. This is a 122-mm self-propelled howitzer 2S1 Gvozdika. The model is made Ukrainian companies SKIF. In addition, the use of the supporting wheels, caterpillars - Resin MasterClub PE Edward, metal barrel, the introduction of the antenna - ModelPoint.
Some information about the prototype:
The 2S1 Gvozdika (Russian: 2С1 "Гвоздика"; Wersja: Carnation) is a Soviet 122-mm self-propelled howitzer that resembles the PT-76 but is essentially a version of the MT-LB APC, mounting the howitzer 2A.18. "2S1" is its GRAU designation. .">Alternative Russian designation is SAU-122 but in the Russian Army it is commonly known as Gvozdika ( "Carnation"). The 2S1 is fully amphibious with very little preparation, and once afloat is propelled by its tracks. A wider variety of tracks are also available that allow the 2S1 to operate in snow or swamp conditions. It is NBC's protected and has infra-red night-vision capability.
The overall box image:

Sorry for my English, I try to use google translator.

The box is located a few runners with the details of green plastic, the plastic itself is not bad enough, handled well, can be sensitive foliated. Comes with a small sheet of photo-etched, but the quality and quantity of quite low, so it was decided to order a photo-etched from the Czech Eduard. Also require replacement and trucks, in the set are vinyl, the quality is not bad, but the big disadvantage is that each tape truck consists of two parts, neither is good, moreover, like they are shorter than they should. Short geese ordered from Master Club, however as the barrel of the Model Point.

Here are the first steps, glued the lower body:


Here are a couple of photos. Stuck some PE:


When gluing the shell I have turned a small slit in the front, to which access for grinding extremely inconvenient, is to be attentive.


Another interesting question arose for etching, Edward gave here a form of engine intake:

While the different forms of a photo I saw, except a few fuzzy photos.
I made a couple of welds, where they should be, but they are not. Along the perimeter of the seams in the photo looked mild, but in such a scale, it seems to me can be seen to be unduly emphasized, so they did not.

Whittle down the side walls where the lights are to scale in size, made all the necessary welds, stuck the rest of PE:


After that I primed the model. To do this, tried to spray gray primer Crafts Spray. It seems not a bad thing, dries quickly, well aligns minor irregularities and defects in metal, plastic, space fillers, after drying, it seemed to me a good shrink, were stains in several places, which are drying up missing. I liked the short primer.


Glued, primed crew howitzers:

Had woven tow rope, the first time, like was good. True enough solid wire, with copper got better, it is softer, but suitable diameter I do not have on hand:

Thereafter put a metal barrel ModelPoint:


Whittle down the wall shrouds marker lights:


From stretched sprue and glued rail, also made a few anchorages near the lattice:


Did mount muzzle brake to the trunk:

Then the whole model is painted in the base color, I used enamel paint Model Master Olive Drab 1711:


I plan to make a protective three-color camouflage, which is used in parts of Russia's army marines. A similar option as in the photo below:


So, I made a camouflage spots. Used Model Master Enamel, Flat Black 1749 and Flat Gull Gray 1730:


Masks made from Italian modelin Das Color:

I assembled resin tracks from Master Club, the quality of tracks is good, although it was necessary to grind the joints, trucks are going to clicks on, unfortunately bad tracks to keep each other constantly feed truck falls apart, had to glue in some places, CA:


The whole model was to blow out the translucent color paint Model Master Flat Sand. This was done in order to align the color transitions and reduce the contrast:


The next stage was covered with acrylic model of semi-gloss varnish.

Lacquered. Model Master semi-gloss. Also made a flag on the antenna.


Also pasted decals. Alternative models made in the colors of the Marine Corps of the Armed Forces of the Russian Army.
Flag is called the St. Andrew's flag "- a Naval flag of Russia:


Next - stages of toning, weathering and chips.

Very nice work and the translation is informative enough!

Looking forward to the finish of this kit.

This one looks really good!
I also built Skif´s kit some years ago, but it was not good. So I bought another one, including some metal parts (Eduard) and a Friul-track. (resin ones would be better, I think)
I´m looking for a Modelpoint-barrel, for a good replacement. (the shop should be in my country)

greetings and thanks for sharing the images!
Soeren

Thank you all for your feedback. Made Fading, filters, washes. Use cheap oil paint + white spirit.
The next step - chips, rust and so forth.

The result looks very good!
Perhaps I don´t need the metal barrel for my kit and I also can build my kit into a nice model.


greetings...
Soeren

Thanks Soeren. We continue to build. Made a few chips, but hell knows, hardly stopped. by I think it looks natural:

The next stage - the dust can be a bit of dry dirt, a bit of rust on the exhaust, soot, etc.:

Well, that's all, work is completed, would eventually be made the base and the crew.:

VERY NICE JOB! I LOVE IT!

Greeting....I'm currently working on my 2S1 and using your article for a reference. I'm about to start work on the turret and it seems to me that the gunners site to the left of the barrel on the turret front is too close to the barrel and should move some to the right. I'm trying to confirm my my thoughts on this but can't seem to find any close up photos of this area and was hoping that you either had a photo or know what I'm referring to. Thanks for any help.

Greg

Greetings Olegas ! Great job so far. your build looks precise. I have thought about building a 2s-1. I think you have influenced me to accuire one soon. Keep up the good work.

Great result of this beast!
The paintwork looks really good! I like it!

greetings...
Soeren

Thank you guys for the kind words.

Greg Beckman I do not quite understand what you want to know if you can, show an arrow in the photo is the place to which you want to know, I'm trying to help.

Hi Olegas,

Nice job you did. The kit looks very real, cammo and all.
The weld seams gave a real touch to it.
Can you teach us how you made them, and what material you used?
Keep up the good job.

Regards,
Flores

Really great achievement on your Gvozdika Olegas. Congrats !

Greg is speaking of the sight to the left of the gun barrel. The one with the wiper. He thinks it's to close to the gun itself.

Olivier

Flores
not sure how Olegas makes his weld seams , but i place a 2 strips of tamiya masking tape either side of where i need the weld seam,then i paint it with Mr Surfacer 500, then apply a second coat and while wet texture it by stippling or make brush strokes from side to side with a stiff paintbrush,when dry remove the tape ,takes about 5 mins to dry

Hi Olegas. Very nice build and finish. Its one mean beast ... even in model form it looks menacing.

i would have changed the tracks as they are a bit wobbly over thee top of the road wheels,should have used fruils they hang better and the gun siight at the side of the barrel needs moving ,but apart from that it looks good,the camo scheme is very nice
Roy

Great Job indeed!

when I say, RESPECT, I mean that, you turned a pile of crapsky into a beauty

True modelbuilder!


sveikinimai iš Belgijos

hope the translator didn't screw that up
but the pictures in combination with the "english" made it easy to understand!