Hey guys,
while sealing of the decals on my challenger with future, I must've overdone it bit, since I noticed I had some buildup at the bottom of the turret.
What's the best way to fix this?
I know ammnia dissolves future, but I don't want to mess up all the good parts on the tank. Would it be possible to use some ammonia on a qtip for a very local spot?
Would sanding be a better option?
Any others?
Since I've already decaled the tank I don't have much room for trial and error...
On a sidenote, how thin can a layer of future be, to be effective? I always have a tendency to spray to much of it on my models.
Any help would be really appreciated!
Thanks!
Dave
Hosted by Darren Baker
How to best fix a "future" runner?
patton76
West-Vlaaderen, Belgium
Joined: December 01, 2002
KitMaker: 568 posts
Armorama: 528 posts
Joined: December 01, 2002
KitMaker: 568 posts
Armorama: 528 posts
Posted: Sunday, April 04, 2010 - 03:01 PM UTC
SSGToms
Connecticut, United States
Joined: April 02, 2005
KitMaker: 3,608 posts
Armorama: 3,092 posts
Joined: April 02, 2005
KitMaker: 3,608 posts
Armorama: 3,092 posts
Posted: Sunday, April 04, 2010 - 03:31 PM UTC
I've done this before too. Get a little distracted or see it from the wrong angle and before you know it you've got a run or a pool.
I've tried a few different things and sanding definitely works the best. I always go gloss-decals-gloss, so using ammonia risks losing the decals.
I have mega-fine sanding pads, 2400 to 12000 grit, that I use for this. I've found that 3200 and 4000 work the best on Future. I carefully and gently sand the run down until it is perfectly smooth. If you don't have pads like this use the finest grit you can find. Check a shop that sells auto body paint and supplies. Then wipe it clean with a cloth, and shoot a THIN layer of Future to restore the finish.
I apply Future in thin layers, letting it dry 1/2 hour in between, until I have a high gloss. Then I apply the decals. Then I shoot Future again, in repeated thin layers, allowing it to dry in between, until the decal edge disappears. By that point you should have a high gloss again, and the decal should look painted on. I always shoot the Future on the whole vehicle, to maintain a consistent finish. A lot of times I've seen Future applied only to the decal areas, and you can see the smooth spots even after a flat coat.
I've tried a few different things and sanding definitely works the best. I always go gloss-decals-gloss, so using ammonia risks losing the decals.
I have mega-fine sanding pads, 2400 to 12000 grit, that I use for this. I've found that 3200 and 4000 work the best on Future. I carefully and gently sand the run down until it is perfectly smooth. If you don't have pads like this use the finest grit you can find. Check a shop that sells auto body paint and supplies. Then wipe it clean with a cloth, and shoot a THIN layer of Future to restore the finish.
I apply Future in thin layers, letting it dry 1/2 hour in between, until I have a high gloss. Then I apply the decals. Then I shoot Future again, in repeated thin layers, allowing it to dry in between, until the decal edge disappears. By that point you should have a high gloss again, and the decal should look painted on. I always shoot the Future on the whole vehicle, to maintain a consistent finish. A lot of times I've seen Future applied only to the decal areas, and you can see the smooth spots even after a flat coat.
patton76
West-Vlaaderen, Belgium
Joined: December 01, 2002
KitMaker: 568 posts
Armorama: 528 posts
Joined: December 01, 2002
KitMaker: 568 posts
Armorama: 528 posts
Posted: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 - 10:22 AM UTC
Hello Mathew,
Thanks for the tip, it worked flawless!!
I bought some fine sanding pads (3600 - 12000) and it worked exactly as you discribed. It worked great with the 3600 grid, so I used this one.
It worked great on the runners, but it also gave a rather nice effect, maybe something to use in the future.
Best tip I ever had!
Thanks a lot!
Thanks for the tip, it worked flawless!!
I bought some fine sanding pads (3600 - 12000) and it worked exactly as you discribed. It worked great with the 3600 grid, so I used this one.
It worked great on the runners, but it also gave a rather nice effect, maybe something to use in the future.
Best tip I ever had!
Thanks a lot!
SSGToms
Connecticut, United States
Joined: April 02, 2005
KitMaker: 3,608 posts
Armorama: 3,092 posts
Joined: April 02, 2005
KitMaker: 3,608 posts
Armorama: 3,092 posts
Posted: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 - 10:49 AM UTC
You are very welcome Dave, I'm glad I could help.