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Armor/AFV: Axis - WWII
Armor and ground forces of the Axis forces during World War II.
Hosted by Darren Baker
Painted Decals?
MEBM
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Indiana, United States
Joined: July 19, 2003
KitMaker: 1,055 posts
Armorama: 530 posts
Posted: Monday, August 04, 2003 - 07:52 AM UTC
How do I make decals look as if they're painted on? You know, not that glossy look. Oh, and I didn't think of this until I had already put them on. I know that there are decal sets around, but they all say that I should put it (the decal set) on before I put the decal on. And then I have to paint more decal set on. Any ideas? Thanks for your time.
slodder
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North Carolina, United States
Joined: February 22, 2002
KitMaker: 11,718 posts
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Posted: Monday, August 04, 2003 - 08:24 AM UTC
To get rid of a glossy sheen from decals get a bottle of Testors Dull Coat. Its a clear flat finish you can spray on the entire model. This will give it a final flat finish.
Testors isn't the only manufacture it's just the one I use.
tazz
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New York, United States
Joined: July 21, 2002
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Posted: Monday, August 04, 2003 - 08:27 AM UTC
its called decal seting agnets.
they sale it at a hobby store.
they sale 2 items
a settin soltion.
and a softsing soltaion.. sorry i cant spell to good lol.
frist u put on the seting soltion then u put the decal on like u would
then take away the the excess water.
then u put a liltte bit of decal softer this makes the decal grab on to the model it will
make the deacl look likes it messing up. all clingy but when it drys the decal looks like its been painted on.
but if u are makeing a tank or plane with flat color
u must put a clear gloss where the decal will go on cause decals dont stick well to flat paint, then after the decal is drying put flat gloss over the plane of tank,
that what i do
i have the testors acrliy clear gloss and flat.
cause i tryed others and the teatesr works the best.
and if u wanna do a wash do the wash and the weahtering over the gloss coat then do the flat good luck
zululand66
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New Jersey, United States
Joined: August 07, 2002
KitMaker: 233 posts
Armorama: 216 posts
Posted: Monday, August 04, 2003 - 11:06 AM UTC
Guys,
Save your time and money. I was shown this and really does work:
1 mix up some white glue in water (basically white water)
2 brush some of the mixture on the model surface
3 apply the decal
4 blot the surface dry

That's all there is to it and there is NO silvering whatsoever! HTH.
Regards,
Georg
MEBM
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Indiana, United States
Joined: July 19, 2003
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Armorama: 530 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 05, 2003 - 03:08 AM UTC
That's all well and good, but I made one mistake: The decals are already on. If anyone has an idea on a decal set that I can put on after the decals are on, that would be helpful. Thanks for your time.
slodder
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North Carolina, United States
Joined: February 22, 2002
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Posted: Tuesday, August 05, 2003 - 03:21 AM UTC
You actually can try to put decal softener on them after they are on. I have done this.
What I did was to take a brand new pin (straight pin) and tapped it very carefully on the decal. This will allow softener to soak in under the decal. Then apply a coat of softener and let it stand until it dries. Repeat as many times as you have patience for or until it works.

Just be careful with the pin.

You may want to set the kit so that the decal is as flat (parallel) with the floor as possible so the solution will 'sit' on the decal as long as possible.

Does this help?
MEBM
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Indiana, United States
Joined: July 19, 2003
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Posted: Tuesday, August 05, 2003 - 03:59 AM UTC
Yes, but by tapping it, do you mean to poke a hole in it. Thanks.
slodder
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North Carolina, United States
Joined: February 22, 2002
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Posted: Tuesday, August 05, 2003 - 04:15 AM UTC
MEBM - Yup - sure do. You want to get some Really small pin prick holes in it (as small as possible) to let the solvent seep in. You don't want to see the hole with the naked eye.

I held the pin firmly between thumb and forefinger and just lightly tapped areas that I felt need to be softened. Be careful where there is a full gap behind the decal - seam or panel gap. The pin could go through to quickly and make to big a hole or tear the decal. The amount of pressure I use would not pop a balloon. My style is very much on the conservative side. I would rather tap lightly and repeat as necessary vs. tapping to hard and tearing the decal. The dried decal film is very delicate.
MEBM
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Indiana, United States
Joined: July 19, 2003
KitMaker: 1,055 posts
Armorama: 530 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 05, 2003 - 04:18 AM UTC
Thank you, thank you, thank you! This will help out a lot! Thank you, thank you, thank you!
AJLaFleche
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Massachusetts, United States
Joined: May 05, 2002
KitMaker: 8,074 posts
Armorama: 3,293 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 05, 2003 - 04:47 AM UTC

Quoted Text

The decals are already on. If anyone has an idea on a decal set that I can put on after the decals are on, that would be helpful.



What Scott's told you is what I'd try first as well. However, it's not guaranteed to work. What kit are you working on? Maybe someone out here has spares for that kit. Let us know what it is; if it's something I have extras for, your welcome to them. :-)
MEBM
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Indiana, United States
Joined: July 19, 2003
KitMaker: 1,055 posts
Armorama: 530 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 05, 2003 - 12:32 PM UTC
Wow, I've been quoted, I feel so special. Anyhoo,I 'm working on a Hanomag, Russian Front, Infantry battlion 4, "WH-939501", 24th Panzer Division. Thanks for your time.
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