Hi again all,

Just posted a question on compressors but now I'm thinking CO2.

There is a welding supply place not far from here. Will these folks know what I am talking about when I walk in?? What am I lookin for specifically? I don;t think I need a huge tank as I really only build a handful of models each year.

Thanks in advance

Yes, you can use a regular-run-of-the-mill air tank. Along with the tank, you'll need to get yourself a regulator and should consider a moister trap. Only draw back to using just a tank is the possiblity of running out of air while in the middle of a pint job.

I just asked the same question last week over on the rec.models.scale newsgroup and got a few decent replies.

Have you got newsgroup access?

Either that or try deja.com, searching the rec. heirarchy, under rec.models for "Co2 tank info needed" and you'll get the thread I started as [email protected]

If that's a huge hassle, drop me a line and I can email the replies

Here's one of the more useful replies.

MLDHOC wrote:
> Ok, so I had printed out and saved in a REALLY safe place every posting I could
> see go past on getting started with a CO2 setup for airbrushing..
> Obviouslly REALLY safe, since I cant find them.
>
> I deja/googled looking for them and can't find much.
>
> So, for the final time, I promise...
> will someone please tell me most everything I need to know to take with me to
> show the slack jawed morons at MG (who I called and am not lucky enough to have
> someone there know what I want/need) to get a complete CO2 airbrush set up..
>

Mike -
Here's what I've got to offer...

> tank

I have two ex-CO2 fire extinguishers (five pound cylinders) that I had
converted for propellant use. I 'found' (literally!) a twenty pound
cylinder that's my main source to power my airbrushes. You can lease or
buy, depending on your needs. New, I think a twenty pounder will run in
the neighborhood of $75-$100.

> regulator/guages (line pressure and remaining rank pressure?)

I have an inexpensive "on-tap" regulator (~$35) with one gauge. Onto
this, I connected another inexpensive, Sears regulator (~$15) with its
own gauge and it allows finer control of the flow. Since I have extra
cylinders, I use them when pressure falls and chose to forego the dual
stage regulator, which shows both working pressure and remaining pressure.
I've been told that liquid CO2 boils off to supply constant ~700-800
PSI gas at the valve body. There's no gradual pressure drop like when
pressurized air depletes; it's there and then it's gone. So, in my
mind, a dual stage regulator had less use in my application than a
backup cylinder.

> adaptor for Tamiya brush

Hmmm.... Can't help you there but any welding shop worth its salt
should have fittings for this. I found mine (for Badger) at a local shop.

> anything else?

You shouldn't need anything else - no water traps or the like. One
thing to keep in mind - keep the cylinder chained or strapped to your
wall, desk, what-have-you. Keep the cylinder steady and vertical to
avoid problems like CO2-powered missiles going through your wall.
Oh - Teflon tape for your connections!

>
> I'll be the keeper of the info and post it to the next poor unorganized slob
> who needs help.
>

From one poor, unorganized slob to another, I'll be here to help next
time, too. It's never too late to help someone in need...

Frank Kranick

Personally, I'd rather go with the compressor for a few reasons. It is an investment initially, but in the long run it is cheaper. I rent 50lb CO2 tanks when I play paintball and fill people's tanks from that. For me, a 50 pounder is $30 for the fill plus $6 per month for renting the tank. The company also wants a $75 security deposit. I bought my compressor at Wal-Mart for $100. It has a built in tank and pressure regulator. In the long run, this is the way to go. Factoring in fill and rental fees, a CO2 tank will be more expensive than a compressor in the long run.

One word of caution: I have a CO tank in my basement that I got from a gas supply house for free, because I "knew" a guy. I put a regulator and a moisture trap on it and went to work. Somewhere along the line I had something hooked up wrong and the moisture trap and the regulator exploded. Scared the sh@t out of me. I don't know if the pressure out of the tank was over what the regulator was rated for or what but I had serious schrapnel flying all over the basement and was VERY lucky I didn't get hurt. I haven't used it since. You may wants to have someone who knows what they are doing (obviously I didn't) check your rig out before you fire it up.

Shaun

If you make numbers the compressor is the best option. You can get one from $100.- to $150.- It´s more secure, you don´t have to deal with the work of refilling and you always will have air supply.
Some options:
1) HS 375 WR Brown Co.
2) MT 5012 Power Pal - Campbell Hausfeld
3) MT 500 CO2 AJ Power Pal - Campbell Hausfeld
All of them have reserve tank and enough power for what we need in our hobby. They are noisy, but the silent ones are more expensive.

A CO2 tank is a hazard, generally the pressure is 1000 - 2000psi, and CO2 is an asphixiant (it replaces oxygen) and tends to settle in low areas, if you work in a basement or a small room this would be a serious hazard, also if you work above other rooms it could create a hazard in the room below. Compressed air doesn't have this hazard. Also depending on how much painting you did at one time the cylinder and hose can get very cold and even cause frost bite.

Guys, CO2 Does NOT need a moisture trap. It has no moisture in it. Only a Regulator is needed. I use a 20 pound Cylinder for my Airbrushing without a moisture trap.

Well thank you all for the great replies!

I solved the issue today by purchasing a "Task Force" Portable Air Compressor ($96 after taxes) at Loews Home Center. It has a 100psi max output with a 2 gallon storage tank. Have already fired it up and it seems a beauty.

Thanks again to all. Now I just need to buy an airbrush..... #:-)

Ok, they are nice too. Your only prob is, there is a chance of building up the pressure, thus paint will be applied much harder.

Tip:
1- when the can is cold, leave it for a while because it has a lower pressure when it's cold but do not make it hot! Making it hot will build up the pressure. Just leave it in a room temp for a while.
2- estimate if the tank can finish the model. Think first. IF you know that the tank is almost empty, don't use it without having a spare. It will ruin your paint job especially if you're using a mixed paint.
3- never inhale the vapors!

Just a thought, if you see a bar going out of business, and they sold draft beer, then they got a co2 tanks and guages forsale, and a lot of bars just might still have the equipment but got rid of the draft beer cause of the hassel of keeping it clean enough for the state inspectors, so they still might have them laying around, and the guages haft to be good, cause other wise they would have beer shooting all over the place, cause they haft to adjust it down to about 8 to 12 pounds I think, can't remember back that far The one thing about the bar guages they have 2 guages one for telling you how much co2 is in the tank, and the other one is for setting your pressure, so you will know when your getting low. hope this helps someone

Hello I'm writing another note here, like the one guy said, you don't need a moisture trap cause the Taverns use them to push beer thru their lines, and for health reasons it is only co2 gas, but the other guy said it exploded, well it does have tremendous pressure, and you haft to have good guages to handle it. Now I never used them for an airbrush but I do know a tall tank should last you better then a year, cause I owned a bar back in the 70's and I pushed thousands of gallons of beer from one tall tank, and would last a good 4 months or better for me. I said in my other note here where you might pick up guages for one, and maybe a tank pretty cheap, now we had to rent them for the tavern, which wasn't that much as I remember, but then that was almost 30 years ago. but the only danger is not having the right guages to handle all that pressure.

A new Regulator from the supplier will run Aroung 50-60 bucks.....About the same a buying the Tank. You dont need a dual stage regulator but they are nice as they let you know How much CO2 is stillin the bottle. I have a single stage Regulator on my rig. All I do is pick up the bottle on occasion to see how heavy it is.