What's the best way to get a rough surface that might approximate something cast? I've seen folks using Mr. Surfacer 500. Been advised that you can coat it with Testors liquid cement and stipple it with a short, tough paint brush. On a related point: when a maker clearly is trying to indicate a weld line, would it be a good idea to help things along by giving it a good dose of Tamiya liquid or maybe Weld-On 3? Any advice appreciated.
Eric

I prefer the liquid glue and stippling method for replicating cast texture. It is cheap, easy, and comes out looking good (in my opinion).



It is not a good idea to coat the weld line with liquid glue. The liquid glue will soften and smooth it out, making it less noticable. The best bet for accentuating weld beads is to add to them. This can be done with a bit of stretched sprue or a thin roll of A&B type epoxy putty. Lay the putty or stretched sprue on, then use some liquid glue to blend it into the model. Lastly, use the tip of a hobby knife to rough up the weld line.

Eric,

Gino's got a point with stippled liquid glue - I've been using it for decades. However, I did "discover" Mr Surfacer 500 about a year ago, and it too gives good results. You still need to stipple it as it dries with a stiff brush, and it stinks to high heaven (being lacquer-based), and you need lacquer thinner to clean the brush afterwards. These days which technique I use depends on my mood as well as whether there's anyone else in the room to offend. The main benefit of Mr Surfacer over glue is that it is a little easier to limit the effect when you need to work around moulded-on details that you don't want to damage. And of course it's easier to see where you've been, what with it being grey in colour...

Tom

PS: Gino, nice work! Is that an M48?

These pics show what I achieved to simulate a rolled steel texture on the Trumpeter 1/16 KT I'm working on:





I first coated the turret with Metalizer Steel. After drying, I buffed the surface with a Scotch Brite pad.





I then applied Plastruct Plastic Weld (Trichloromethane), in sections, using a Number 0 Fine Sable Brush. Applying the solvent on the metalized surface not only softens the styrene, it also embeds the metalizer into the plastic itself. Using a GUM toothbrush (this is perfect because this brush has raised bristles, for getting the food stuck between the teeth, naturally!), I stippled the softened styrene.





When the entire turret was worked over, I used a coarse sanding stick to level off the mess. Then, it was back to the Scotch Brite pad to smooth things down, followed by another coat of Metalizer Steel. When that dried, I used a large makeup applicator brush which I sto...borrowed from my wife and buffed the surfaces. Then, I used the Scotch Brite pad for a final burnishing.







The end result, in my opinion, is more than a passable representation of rolled armor plate. The metal plate finish is durable and fingerprint-proof; and, it provides me with a simulated steel base which will allow me to model realistic wear to the painted sufaces.

The same technique can be used to simulate a cast surface by recoating the stippled and burnished part with an additional bit of Plastic Weld to subdue things further.

I replicate the cast texture by using the liquid glue technique. Instead of using a brush to stipple the surface, I use a piece of thin cardboard (model box) and float it over the surface in varying directions. Once dry, I lightly buff it with 000 steel wool.



Mike R does some excellent weld beads. You can see his work here.

https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/158659&ord=&page=1

Thanks Tom. It is an IDF Magach 3 (M48A3) I did for a customer earlier this year. You can see the build log here.