Well, I finally got arount to posting photos of the build of this kit, to go with the previous revew I did here . I have been working on this for the past month or so, working on the kit for about 30 minutes a night, so it is going very slowly. There were very few issues with the build so far, which has been out of box. The instructions were fairly clear and simple. The instructions start with the running gear. Parts are well molded and went together easily. Nothing particularly exciting. I did not attach the drive sprocket to the final drive or the rear idlers to their axles for ease of painting.
Placing the torsion bar suspension in the hull is also fairly simple, but the parts are handed, so keep them separate if you cut them all of at once. The left hand side bars will not fit in the right hand side hull mounts, so if you have trouble getting them in, you are on the wrong side. There are new hydraulic shocks for this kit, each marked for it's position, either LR, RR, LF or RF, for left and right rear, left and right front, respectively. There were large pour tabs to remove, and some small details that are not for this version of the Panzer III.
The rear hull went on easily. I opened up the exhausts a little more and haven't put the chains on the smoke candle rack as I didn't want to knock them off and lose them. Fit was very good. I didn't take a picture, but the hull front lower plate was also glued in, and then the mounts for the final drive were glued on.
The fenders are next. Assembly was fairly quick, although the instructions are a little busy. The only etch parts are the base for the fire extinguisher and two mounting strips that I am waiting to put on so I don't lose or damage them. I also left off the headlights and rear light as I tend to break them.
Next up is the upper hull. The hull front has two hatches and the brake covers. The rear hull has the metal etch screens and engine access covers. The hull mounted MG comes with multiple parts, including a bag for the spent shell casings. The gun is well detailed and the ball mount moves. As the inside won't be seen, I left off all the extra parts and added them to the spares bin. Only the upper receiver was used. I left the driver's vision port in the open position. Tom Cockle stated over at Missing Lynx that the etch rain visor was wrong for this kit, but I used it anyway. There is a small spot on the sprue to bend this into shape. The instructions are a little poor on that part, as the front lip should be bent up slightly. I guessed as well as I could. The side vision ports are made to be operable with careful use of glue. Old fashioned tube glue worked better here than the extra thin liquid glue, which quickly wicks into all small joints and sticks it all shut.
The turret cupola requires extra attention. There are five inner window brackets, five armored windows, one inner turret ring, five lower and upper armored louvers for the outside, ring base and the hatches, which I will add later. Care and patience will get it done. The assembly of the gun mount is done in two parts. The left hand side has two MG 34. The top halves of the mounting brackets are reversed in the instructions. Then slide the guns forward as far as they will go. The 37mm gun breech had a fairly good sized seam that I didn't fill as I expected that it would not show on the completed model. Putting the two halves together and leaving them moveable was again tricky. I used thick glue to keep it controllable and allow me to keep the mount moveable. Same thing with the vision ports on the sides of the turret. which again are workable. Everything still moves, so I did all right.
With the major sections built I did the two track runs. They are handed, and bagged separately by shade of gray. I did them in smaller sections, then put the sections together, and then wrapped them all at once on the running gear, which was set in place but not glued. Then I noticed I had put them on backwards, so I had to quickly remove them and reverse them. Instructions call for 98 links, but I removed two as the sag was so severe. After that, I did a test fit of the three upper hull sections and the turret. Everything went together with no fit issues, so as soon as I get some more time I can add the small details and get painting.
I made notes on my instructions of small issues that came up, which I will post in detail next time. For now, this has been, as I said, a very easy build. Makes me want to get another Panzer III.
Hosted by Darren Baker
Panzer III F build review
russamotto
Utah, United States
Joined: December 14, 2007
KitMaker: 3,389 posts
Armorama: 2,054 posts
Joined: December 14, 2007
KitMaker: 3,389 posts
Armorama: 2,054 posts
Posted: Wednesday, September 29, 2010 - 04:28 PM UTC
SDavies
England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: January 09, 2010
KitMaker: 979 posts
Armorama: 959 posts
Joined: January 09, 2010
KitMaker: 979 posts
Armorama: 959 posts
Posted: Wednesday, September 29, 2010 - 08:08 PM UTC
Looking good so far, I like the sag that you managed to get on the tracks.
vonMarshall
United Kingdom
Joined: July 30, 2010
KitMaker: 192 posts
Armorama: 165 posts
Joined: July 30, 2010
KitMaker: 192 posts
Armorama: 165 posts
Posted: Wednesday, September 29, 2010 - 09:40 PM UTC
I just love the Panzer III and have this kit in my stash so following this build with interest. Great work so far.
Re the tracks it is worth noting that the intructions are wrong. Apparently Dragon just copied this bit from the longer Pz IV instructions and you are only meant to use 93 or 94 per side. If you check out wBill's BLOG of his Panzer III N with Winterketten it is discussed there.
Looks like a lovely build. One quick question for you. I know the decals are all for German Grey painted tanks, but were any of these twin machine-gun versions sent to Africa?
Re the tracks it is worth noting that the intructions are wrong. Apparently Dragon just copied this bit from the longer Pz IV instructions and you are only meant to use 93 or 94 per side. If you check out wBill's BLOG of his Panzer III N with Winterketten it is discussed there.
Looks like a lovely build. One quick question for you. I know the decals are all for German Grey painted tanks, but were any of these twin machine-gun versions sent to Africa?
Red4
California, United States
Joined: April 01, 2002
KitMaker: 4,287 posts
Armorama: 1,867 posts
Joined: April 01, 2002
KitMaker: 4,287 posts
Armorama: 1,867 posts
Posted: Thursday, September 30, 2010 - 04:44 AM UTC
Nice looking build thus far Russ! Looking forward to seeing more. "Q"
wbill76
Texas, United States
Joined: May 02, 2006
KitMaker: 5,425 posts
Armorama: 4,659 posts
Joined: May 02, 2006
KitMaker: 5,425 posts
Armorama: 4,659 posts
Posted: Thursday, September 30, 2010 - 07:52 AM UTC
Looking good so far Russ, looking forward to seeing it with paint on.
Have you decided on a scheme/markings yet for this one?
Have you decided on a scheme/markings yet for this one?
russamotto
Utah, United States
Joined: December 14, 2007
KitMaker: 3,389 posts
Armorama: 2,054 posts
Joined: December 14, 2007
KitMaker: 3,389 posts
Armorama: 2,054 posts
Posted: Thursday, September 30, 2010 - 02:18 PM UTC
Thank you all for the comments. I made a note to remember Bill's build and the track link count, and then promptly forgot it. I'm not sure which marking scheme to go with yet. The first option from Greece, 1941, is currently the most appealing. I had read that a number of F models participated in France and was looking for vehicle references for them. A Google image search in black and white should help.
I checked with the comments Frank deSisto made in his review at Missing Lynx. He added a list of corrections to the instructions, but as I reviewed mine, the errors he listed were, for the most part, corrected. There are bolt strip attachments on the fenders that are removed in steps 7 and 8, but the replacement parts are added to the hull in step 3. I mentioned above that the upper halves of the bracket for the dual MG mount were reversed, parts S35 and S36, from step 14. In step 18, the side hatches on the turret, parts V62 and V63, were reversed as well. Step 16 says 98 links for each track run, which should be 92 or 93 links. Dragon instructions generally have the left side part in parentheses, and in step 16, for the front hull towing hooks, the left hand side is shown. The tracks are also shown from the left side.
I'm hoping to add some small bits and get the painting started, tomorrow, if possible.
I see that Dragon have announced the E version of the panzer III, with the narrow road wheels.
I checked with the comments Frank deSisto made in his review at Missing Lynx. He added a list of corrections to the instructions, but as I reviewed mine, the errors he listed were, for the most part, corrected. There are bolt strip attachments on the fenders that are removed in steps 7 and 8, but the replacement parts are added to the hull in step 3. I mentioned above that the upper halves of the bracket for the dual MG mount were reversed, parts S35 and S36, from step 14. In step 18, the side hatches on the turret, parts V62 and V63, were reversed as well. Step 16 says 98 links for each track run, which should be 92 or 93 links. Dragon instructions generally have the left side part in parentheses, and in step 16, for the front hull towing hooks, the left hand side is shown. The tracks are also shown from the left side.
I'm hoping to add some small bits and get the painting started, tomorrow, if possible.
I see that Dragon have announced the E version of the panzer III, with the narrow road wheels.
panamadan
Minnesota, United States
Joined: July 20, 2004
KitMaker: 1,513 posts
Armorama: 1,449 posts
Joined: July 20, 2004
KitMaker: 1,513 posts
Armorama: 1,449 posts
Posted: Thursday, September 30, 2010 - 02:39 PM UTC
Russ,
Did you have any problems fitting the upper turret piece to the lower turret piece?
Dan
Did you have any problems fitting the upper turret piece to the lower turret piece?
Dan
russamotto
Utah, United States
Joined: December 14, 2007
KitMaker: 3,389 posts
Armorama: 2,054 posts
Joined: December 14, 2007
KitMaker: 3,389 posts
Armorama: 2,054 posts
Posted: Thursday, September 30, 2010 - 08:54 PM UTC
The upper and lower turret parts mated up fairly well. I started with the forward edge where it meets the gun shield and did one side at a time.
there is a small gap around the sides and rear but it is under the turret and not visible. There was still enough surface contact to glue the sections together.
there is a small gap around the sides and rear but it is under the turret and not visible. There was still enough surface contact to glue the sections together.
russamotto
Utah, United States
Joined: December 14, 2007
KitMaker: 3,389 posts
Armorama: 2,054 posts
Joined: December 14, 2007
KitMaker: 3,389 posts
Armorama: 2,054 posts
Posted: Wednesday, October 06, 2010 - 12:15 PM UTC
Finally got some more work done. Added all the lights and the tow cable, front tow brackets and the etch fender brace and the conduit for the two extra headlamps. Then put on a coat of Tamiya NATO black as primer, this from a rattle can.
The tow cable was a bit of a problem as not all of the holes line up with the cable itself. Most were covered well enough but one hole was visible under the cable end. I patched it but I'll need to smooth it out more.
After fixing a few blemishes, I topped it off with another coat of Tamiya German Gray, again from the spray can, as I don't have an airbrush. I have started some color modulation with oils and done a bit of detail painting on the tools. I also added the tracks. The tires were painted with PollyScale grimy black and the tracks given a base coat of Tamiya gun metal and then dry brushed with Model Master non buffing steel, which works fine with a brush. The lighting is not the best and so much of this doesn't stand out. Everything looks clean and shiny.
I'll finish the modulation and then start on the decals. I think it will be the tank on the box top, from Greece.
The tow cable was a bit of a problem as not all of the holes line up with the cable itself. Most were covered well enough but one hole was visible under the cable end. I patched it but I'll need to smooth it out more.
After fixing a few blemishes, I topped it off with another coat of Tamiya German Gray, again from the spray can, as I don't have an airbrush. I have started some color modulation with oils and done a bit of detail painting on the tools. I also added the tracks. The tires were painted with PollyScale grimy black and the tracks given a base coat of Tamiya gun metal and then dry brushed with Model Master non buffing steel, which works fine with a brush. The lighting is not the best and so much of this doesn't stand out. Everything looks clean and shiny.
I'll finish the modulation and then start on the decals. I think it will be the tank on the box top, from Greece.
bmikk1
Utah, United States
Joined: February 15, 2008
KitMaker: 199 posts
Armorama: 136 posts
Joined: February 15, 2008
KitMaker: 199 posts
Armorama: 136 posts
Posted: Friday, October 08, 2010 - 02:38 PM UTC
Looks like a fun build, nice work so far Russ.
russamotto
Utah, United States
Joined: December 14, 2007
KitMaker: 3,389 posts
Armorama: 2,054 posts
Joined: December 14, 2007
KitMaker: 3,389 posts
Armorama: 2,054 posts
Posted: Sunday, October 10, 2010 - 01:12 PM UTC
Thanks, Brandon.
Update with no photos, but I will post some soon. I started the decal process and promptly destroyed one of the large spade decals for the rear of the turret. Good thing I had planned on going with decal option 2 all along. It depicts a vehicle from the 1st panzer division, tank number 300. Dragon was kind enough to provide 4 of the divisional marking symbols when only three are needed, as I wrecked one of those as well.
My problem is I didn't study the decal film, which is a must with the Cartograph decals, as they are very fine and sparing on the film, which tends to follow the printing very closely. The first decal, spade in a circle, is nearly two parts, with the circle attached to the spade at the very tip. When I went to apply it, the circle folded under. I tried to fix it, touched it with my finger, and the rest was history.
Decal 4, the balkankruz (?) is also two parts, which is handy as it goes over the rear bolt strip. 9 decals total for this option, which made it very simple. I'll seal it with future and start weathering, get some pictures and put them up.
Update with no photos, but I will post some soon. I started the decal process and promptly destroyed one of the large spade decals for the rear of the turret. Good thing I had planned on going with decal option 2 all along. It depicts a vehicle from the 1st panzer division, tank number 300. Dragon was kind enough to provide 4 of the divisional marking symbols when only three are needed, as I wrecked one of those as well.
My problem is I didn't study the decal film, which is a must with the Cartograph decals, as they are very fine and sparing on the film, which tends to follow the printing very closely. The first decal, spade in a circle, is nearly two parts, with the circle attached to the spade at the very tip. When I went to apply it, the circle folded under. I tried to fix it, touched it with my finger, and the rest was history.
Decal 4, the balkankruz (?) is also two parts, which is handy as it goes over the rear bolt strip. 9 decals total for this option, which made it very simple. I'll seal it with future and start weathering, get some pictures and put them up.
russamotto
Utah, United States
Joined: December 14, 2007
KitMaker: 3,389 posts
Armorama: 2,054 posts
Joined: December 14, 2007
KitMaker: 3,389 posts
Armorama: 2,054 posts
Posted: Friday, October 15, 2010 - 11:48 AM UTC
Here is the problem decal. Very nicely made, but I couldn't get it to sit right. It is joined at the top and bottom, but mine tore at the bottom which is why I didn't think it was attached.
As I mentioned, I used the marking for the 1st pz. division, from Army group North in the Barbarossa campaign. I had built the kit from the box art and didn't use the notek light on the front, or the rectangular rear light. I used some pigments for weathering, and then added some clay my kids dug up from the yard, as battlefield reports were alternating summer rain with mud and choking clouds of dust. I would like to show the tank moving forward through a grain field if I can figure out how to do the effect. I took the photos outside for natural lighting and semi natural background.
One quick question. What color should the tail lamps be?
Thanks for looking. This was a very nice kit to build. Let me know how it is turning out.
As I mentioned, I used the marking for the 1st pz. division, from Army group North in the Barbarossa campaign. I had built the kit from the box art and didn't use the notek light on the front, or the rectangular rear light. I used some pigments for weathering, and then added some clay my kids dug up from the yard, as battlefield reports were alternating summer rain with mud and choking clouds of dust. I would like to show the tank moving forward through a grain field if I can figure out how to do the effect. I took the photos outside for natural lighting and semi natural background.
One quick question. What color should the tail lamps be?
Thanks for looking. This was a very nice kit to build. Let me know how it is turning out.
vonHengest
Texas, United States
Joined: June 29, 2010
KitMaker: 5,854 posts
Armorama: 4,817 posts
Joined: June 29, 2010
KitMaker: 5,854 posts
Armorama: 4,817 posts
Posted: Friday, October 15, 2010 - 07:35 PM UTC
Dang it Russ, now I want one! Lol, looking good although I can't really see the color modulation effects. It may just be the lighting in the pictures.
cheswickthecat
Washington, United States
Joined: October 13, 2007
KitMaker: 212 posts
Armorama: 208 posts
Joined: October 13, 2007
KitMaker: 212 posts
Armorama: 208 posts
Posted: Friday, October 15, 2010 - 07:58 PM UTC
Looks like a really nice build. I like the amount of weathering and mud on the running gear and hull. Cool!
Terry
Terry
vonMarshall
United Kingdom
Joined: July 30, 2010
KitMaker: 192 posts
Armorama: 165 posts
Joined: July 30, 2010
KitMaker: 192 posts
Armorama: 165 posts
Posted: Saturday, October 16, 2010 - 03:57 AM UTC
That looks fantastic
Nice work
Nice work
c5flies
California, United States
Joined: October 21, 2007
KitMaker: 3,684 posts
Armorama: 2,938 posts
Joined: October 21, 2007
KitMaker: 3,684 posts
Armorama: 2,938 posts
Posted: Saturday, October 16, 2010 - 05:12 AM UTC
Nice one Russ. Those top down shots show what a great job you did weathering that panzer gray
russamotto
Utah, United States
Joined: December 14, 2007
KitMaker: 3,389 posts
Armorama: 2,054 posts
Joined: December 14, 2007
KitMaker: 3,389 posts
Armorama: 2,054 posts
Posted: Saturday, October 16, 2010 - 06:19 AM UTC
Thank you all for the comments. I'm glad it turned out all right. I have wondered if I had overdone the weathering.
Jeremy, I highly recommend the panzer III kits. The new E version should be hitting the shelves pretty soon.
Jeremy, I highly recommend the panzer III kits. The new E version should be hitting the shelves pretty soon.
wbill76
Texas, United States
Joined: May 02, 2006
KitMaker: 5,425 posts
Armorama: 4,659 posts
Joined: May 02, 2006
KitMaker: 5,425 posts
Armorama: 4,659 posts
Posted: Sunday, October 17, 2010 - 01:09 PM UTC
Nice work on this one Russ.
As to your question on the tail lights, the top should be red and the bottom orange although most builders don't differentiate and just paint them both red. HTH!
As to your question on the tail lights, the top should be red and the bottom orange although most builders don't differentiate and just paint them both red. HTH!
russamotto
Utah, United States
Joined: December 14, 2007
KitMaker: 3,389 posts
Armorama: 2,054 posts
Joined: December 14, 2007
KitMaker: 3,389 posts
Armorama: 2,054 posts
Posted: Sunday, October 17, 2010 - 02:46 PM UTC
Thanks, Bill. I'll fill them in and leave it alone until I can do a base. Again, thanks all for the comments. They always make the build go better.