Can anyone tell me what paint type to use with the salt chipping method? Acrylic or Enamel. I will be using a hull red as the primer coat. Tamiya Acrylic XF-9 Hull Red or Hull Red FS30040 - Vallejo Model Air Acrylic Paint 17ml #039. I know the primer coat should dry for a few days to obtain a nice hard surface. Does it need to be sealed with future or a dull coat prior to adding the salt and the top coat(s)?
AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
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Salt Chipping Paint Type
MikeM670
#020
Joined: December 28, 2006
KitMaker: 278 posts
Armorama: 231 posts
Posted: Friday, October 15, 2010 - 07:26 AM UTC
Easy_Co
Joined: September 11, 2002
KitMaker: 1,933 posts
Armorama: 985 posts
Posted: Friday, October 15, 2010 - 07:42 AM UTC
Hi,I think acrylics are the only way to go because you have to dissolve the top layer of paint and the salt usually with water, if you use enamels you would have a hell of a job getting it off. 
NebLWeffah
Joined: October 13, 2004
KitMaker: 1,683 posts
Armorama: 1,248 posts
Posted: Friday, October 15, 2010 - 07:59 AM UTC
Hi Michael
I've had personal experience with this and all I can say is - STAY AWAY FROM ACRYLICS FOR THE TOP COAT !! The base coat doesn't much matter but in my case, I used acrylic for the base coat, added the salt crystals which were adhered with water. After complete drying, I then airbrushed the top coat with acrylic. Everything had dried well through during each step but when it came to rubbing and washing the salt off to expose the base layer, the salt had leeched through the acrylic top coat. It created swirls and pools in the top coat and looked aweful. I managed to weather it afterwards with a decent result but I would recommend using an enamel top coat. The base coat shouldn't matter much but don't use an acrylic for the top coat.
Here's a previous Armorama thread about it:
https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/77448#646408
cheers;
Bob
I've had personal experience with this and all I can say is - STAY AWAY FROM ACRYLICS FOR THE TOP COAT !! The base coat doesn't much matter but in my case, I used acrylic for the base coat, added the salt crystals which were adhered with water. After complete drying, I then airbrushed the top coat with acrylic. Everything had dried well through during each step but when it came to rubbing and washing the salt off to expose the base layer, the salt had leeched through the acrylic top coat. It created swirls and pools in the top coat and looked aweful. I managed to weather it afterwards with a decent result but I would recommend using an enamel top coat. The base coat shouldn't matter much but don't use an acrylic for the top coat.
Here's a previous Armorama thread about it:
https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/77448#646408
cheers;
Bob
MikeM670
#020
Joined: December 28, 2006
KitMaker: 278 posts
Armorama: 231 posts
Posted: Friday, October 15, 2010 - 08:30 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Hi,I think acrylics are the only way to go because you have to dissolve the top layer of paint and the salt usually with water, if you use enamels you would have a hell of a job getting it off.
John,
I would really like to stay with the acrylic's for ease of use and cleaning, however I have heard about the issue that Bob comments on. After reading his post that jogged my memory as to where I heard about the issue with acrylics and salt.
Quoted Text
Hi Michael
I've had personal experience with this and all I can say is - STAY AWAY FROM ACRYLICS FOR THE TOP COAT !! The base coat doesn't much matter but in my case, I used acrylic for the base coat, added the salt crystals which were adhered with water. After complete drying, I then airbrushed the top coat with acrylic. Everything had dried well through during each step but when it came to rubbing and washing the salt off to expose the base layer, the salt had leeched through the acrylic top coat. It created swirls and pools in the top coat and looked aweful. I managed to weather it afterwards with a decent result but I would recommend using an enamel top coat. The base coat shouldn't matter much but don't use an acrylic for the top coat.
Here's a previous Armorama thread about it:
https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/77448#646408
cheers;
Bob
Bob,
I hear you on what could of become a disaster. I want to make sure I have the technique down pat as this will be used in both of my current campaigns. Targets that shoot back and Soft Skins. If I have to go with enamels then that will require a bit of paint shopping.
( Who says shopping is all bad! )All in all I think this will require some more research on my part.
Thanks to both of you for the input!
Mike
alanmac
Joined: February 25, 2007
KitMaker: 3,033 posts
Armorama: 2,953 posts
Posted: Friday, October 15, 2010 - 08:50 AM UTC
Hi Mike
Can't speak from personal experience but these might help
Salt Weathering Technique
Salt Weathering Technique Two
The second link is for an aircraft based model but should be applicable for anything.
Alan
Can't speak from personal experience but these might help
Salt Weathering Technique
Salt Weathering Technique Two
The second link is for an aircraft based model but should be applicable for anything.
Alan
MikeM670
#020
Joined: December 28, 2006
KitMaker: 278 posts
Armorama: 231 posts
Posted: Friday, October 15, 2010 - 09:19 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Hi Mike
Can't speak from personal experience but these might help
Salt Weathering Technique
Salt Weathering Technique Two
The second link is for an aircraft based model but should be applicable for anything.
Alan
Alan,
Thanks I saved both links for future referance. I do like the aircraft one a lot.
Mike
viper29_ca
Joined: October 18, 2002
KitMaker: 2,247 posts
Armorama: 1,138 posts
Posted: Friday, October 15, 2010 - 04:55 PM UTC
Ditto what Bob posted.
I did the salt technique on a URAL MLRS truck, laid down the acrylic base coat, then the salt adhered with water, and then the top acrylic coat, and once all had dried, the water base of the top coat actually slightly dissolved the salt, leaving little salt rings around each grain.....it looked like crap. So before I did anything I went over it all with enamel again. Made for getting he salt off a little more difficult, but I no longer had the salt rings anymore.
Ended up turning out OK in the end.........
I did the salt technique on a URAL MLRS truck, laid down the acrylic base coat, then the salt adhered with water, and then the top acrylic coat, and once all had dried, the water base of the top coat actually slightly dissolved the salt, leaving little salt rings around each grain.....it looked like crap. So before I did anything I went over it all with enamel again. Made for getting he salt off a little more difficult, but I no longer had the salt rings anymore.
Ended up turning out OK in the end.........
stoney
Joined: October 16, 2006
KitMaker: 480 posts
Armorama: 399 posts
Posted: Friday, October 15, 2010 - 05:21 PM UTC
I've had success with acrylics for both coats, let the 2nd dry fully and then scrub the salt off, worked well.
JPTRR
Managing Editor#051
Joined: December 21, 2002
KitMaker: 7,772 posts
Armorama: 2,447 posts
Posted: Friday, October 15, 2010 - 06:00 PM UTC
Hi Everyone,
You don't need to leave your KitMaker Network to find a feature on salt weathering: Salt Weathering.
It demonstrates what can go wrong with salt and acrylic clear coat, as well as how easily it can be fixed (with the right clear coat.)
You don't need to leave your KitMaker Network to find a feature on salt weathering: Salt Weathering.
It demonstrates what can go wrong with salt and acrylic clear coat, as well as how easily it can be fixed (with the right clear coat.) 
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