I used a primer that i usually dont use(citadel, skull white), didnt like the way it turned out(orange peel), ...anyway i got most of the paint removed using windex, worked pretty well, so after that i sanded it smooth, and put it in some soapy water to clean it off. It's not looking to bad now, compared to what it was at. This is the first time i have had to COMPLETELY remove paint from something, so i have some concerns. I will post some pictures, and i want to know if its ready to be re-primed, this time using what i always use, tamiya fine surface primer. Thank you very much for any help!
[IMG]http://img803.imageshack.us/img803/5313/csc1582.jpg" BORDER="0">
im worried about this, the surface is as smooth as can be though, will the primer go over it ok?
Uploaded with ImageShack.us/image.file[/img]
AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
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Paint Removed-Re-Priming
mrob96
Oregon, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, October 19, 2010 - 04:14 PM UTC
vonHengest
Texas, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, October 19, 2010 - 05:00 PM UTC
Is that dry? It looks a bit milky.
Posted: Tuesday, October 19, 2010 - 05:21 PM UTC
If the model is free of grease then a paint designed to be an undercote will adhere as it bonds to the plastic chemically, By this I mean rather than just sitting on the surface it bites into the plastic surface and gives you an ideal surface to apply your other paints to. I use auto motive undercote on mine as it is only a £1 a tin.
vonHengest
Texas, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, October 19, 2010 - 05:32 PM UTC
That's good stuff Darren, but do you mean undercoating or primer?
mrob96
Oregon, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, October 19, 2010 - 05:37 PM UTC
it is totaly dry, but im concerned that if i spray over it, that will show through? i have never had anything like this happen.
vonHengest
Texas, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, October 19, 2010 - 05:40 PM UTC
You shouldn't have to worry about it showing through. Any of the primers you choose to use are going to unify the tones for painting.
mrob96
Oregon, United States
Joined: July 12, 2010
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Joined: July 12, 2010
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Posted: Tuesday, October 19, 2010 - 05:46 PM UTC
ok, thanks for your help. i have been doing this hobby for about a year now, learn something new everyday.
Posted: Tuesday, October 19, 2010 - 05:50 PM UTC
If I understand you correctly you are concerned the under cote/primer will show through the top cote of paint or effect the tone. This is why if the model is going to be a light colour you use a white primer, and if it is dark you can use grey or red oxide this way you do away with the concerns of a dark under cote/primer affecting the finish on a vehicle that is light in colour or vice versa.
mrob96
Oregon, United States
Joined: July 12, 2010
KitMaker: 17 posts
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Joined: July 12, 2010
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Posted: Tuesday, October 19, 2010 - 06:12 PM UTC
Quoted Text
If I understand you correctly you are concerned the under cote/primer will show through the top cote of paint or effect the tone. This is why if the model is going to be a light colour you use a white primer, and if it is dark you can use grey or red oxide this way you do away with the concerns of a dark under cote/primer affecting the finish on a vehicle that is light in colour or vice versa.
No, i guess i didnt state it clearly, theres a weird pattern on the model, if you look closely at the picture provided you can see it. its almost like there's a film over it, if you wet it, it goes away, but comes back almost instantly.
Posted: Tuesday, October 19, 2010 - 06:52 PM UTC
Wash the model in some water and detergent as it sounds as if there is some of the windex sticking to the surface, which may effect the ability of the paint to key into the surface of the model.
mrob96
Oregon, United States
Joined: July 12, 2010
KitMaker: 17 posts
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Joined: July 12, 2010
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Posted: Wednesday, October 20, 2010 - 11:39 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Wash the model in some water and detergent as it sounds as if there is some of the windex sticking to the surface, which may effect the ability of the paint to key into the surface of the model.
Yea, it didn't occur to me to that it could still be the windex sticking, i sanded it down smooth, but ill try that thanks.