I was wondering how people cut photo etch parts from the fret.
I've tried a curved scalpel blade on a ceramic tile but it ruins it, I tried side cutters but there's often not enough room to fit them in the gap between small parts, I tried the tip of a new blade on a cutting mat but it bends the parts near the attachment points out of shape. I even bought some purpose made scissors which cut well but are impossible to get near the edge of the part.
There must be a reliable way!

blade n°11 and a hard base (glass or aluminium plate).


hope it helps

spit

Hi Robin,

Take a look here, this PE Cut Off Set from The Small Shop may help. It is very cheap too.

https://armorama.kitmaker.net/review/3153

Paul

^^DITTO^^

I use the cut off set from the Small Shop as well. Got a great deal on it at the time. I've tried several different methods, but like this one the best so far. The plexiglass base is firm, but will give enough for you to cut into without distorting the piece. The clear holding arms are actually quite handy. I split my plexiglass sheets in two to give me 4 sheets instead of the two included, and am still on my first one.

Jamie

One of the best ideas I've heard is putting the brass fret inside a plastic baggie before trying to cut it loose. You only make a small slit in the baggie and the part is kept away from the nearby floor monsters........

you can also use a post-it note, stick the PE on it and cut.. the tac will keep the part form going air-born

Use the no11 blade. Angle to blade inward towards the part and push at a 45 degree angle. This will ensure the blade will always try to make its way to the edge of the part.


If the fret bends, change the blade. Buy a few packs of no11's, they aren't that expensive, but photoetch is!!

This is exactly what I use! The acrylic sheet is great for digging in a bit without going too deep and bending the part. I do use the regular curved blade (#12 or 13, I think) to cut the items from from the fret. I usually cut a bit away from the part just so I don't damage it and simply go over with a sanding twig/stick (or file) just like you would on a regular plastic part. It works very well to smooth the contact area between the item and fret.

I try to stay away from PE scissors/shears, etc., as it's very hard to get in between other bits if you need to cut a part that may be in the middle of the fret. It may work great for those parts that are on the edges but not so for those located elsewhere.

Rob

I usually use a pair of sharp curved scissors for cutting nails bought from Boots the Chemist

The are sharp but taper to a very sharp point so usually they manage with even the smallest gap to cut in

I like that plastic bag idea though...

As it's hard plastic, a formica countertop is a little easier on a #10 blade. But an aluminium surface also works.

I am in the other camp, Xuron PE scissors and the Tamiya Diamond dust coated file to clean the part up.

If there is not enough room to cut the part neatly with the clippers, I just snip through the connectors and trim the part with the clippers once it is removed from the fret.

This lets me get very neat cuts on almost all parts, but the Tamiya diamond coated file is the absolutely best thing for cleaning up anything left from that fret connector.

I sandwich my PE between 2 pieces of "less-tacky" clear tape to keep them from that carpet-guy. I cut my PE with a newer Nr.11 blade on a piece of dark hardwood as a "table". Generally, I cut thru tabs at about a 45-degree angle and keep a little off the part. (Unless the part is very tiny, in which case I try to keep pretty close to it so as to minimize the fuss of clean-up).

No brag here, but I have NEVER lost even a tiny PE part when doing the tape route. The baggie works well, too, but I find it easier to see thru the clear tape.

I clean up cut-off tabs with a fine-tooth file run along the edge (NOT across it). Hold the part in a flat-jaw or smooth-jaw plier with the tab barely exposed to sand, file or shave it off.

When ready to bend and glue it, peel off the tape. IF the part bends while being cut off or when being peeled, it can easily be flattened again by rolling with the knife handle.

Thanks everyone

Some great ideas, it seems I should try a sharp blade on a surface harder than a cutting mat, but not as hard as glass. I do have some perspex (plexi glass). And I'll try cutting at more of an angle (carefully!).
I also use small metal files to smooth the parts.

Hi Robin

I stick the PE freat on a hard base (Iron or glass... I usually prefere the first one) whit a double sides tape

To cut the PE I usually dont' use the x acto blade N11; I prefere the n 16 :



It allows me a better angle cut.

Cheers

I use a #12 curved blade, holding the PE with a flat razor blade and then roll the #12 across the PE a couple times to cut it. I do this on glass. I have a very small nub to clean up, if at all.