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Armor/AFV: Modern - USA
Modern Armor, AFVs, and Support vehicles.
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Tamiya Hummvee with Blast model uparmour set
DonnyT
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Singapore / 新加坡
Joined: November 22, 2006
KitMaker: 74 posts
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Posted: Monday, November 01, 2010 - 02:56 AM UTC
Hello, this is my first post here in armourama and i wanted to share my work here and hope to hear some comment (good or bad). below are the photos and hope you enjoy it.













Thanks for watching... happy modelling guys.
jwest21
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Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: October 16, 2006
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Posted: Monday, November 01, 2010 - 03:08 AM UTC
real nice work, Donny!
Red4
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California, United States
Joined: April 01, 2002
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Posted: Monday, November 01, 2010 - 03:12 AM UTC
Looks good Donny. Only question I have is how is the spare tire being held on? I can't see any type of securing plates etc. Thanks for sharing your work. "Q"
KoSprueOne
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Myanmar
Joined: March 05, 2004
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Posted: Monday, November 01, 2010 - 03:21 AM UTC
with glue...duh (just kidding), good question

Looks good, Donny. I see the radio equipment inside through the dusted windows. Is the roof or doors removable to show your interior details?




HeavyArty
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Florida, United States
Joined: May 16, 2002
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Posted: Monday, November 01, 2010 - 03:30 AM UTC
It looks really good. The Blast set came out nicely. I also like your weathering. A couple pointers though.

The rear reflectors look amber, they should be red. The same for the front side position lights. They look red and should be amber. Basically, the position lights, reflectors and turn signals for the rear should be red. The position lights, reflectors and turn signals for the front should all be amber.

The foggy windows don't look right. If the windows are dirty and fogged, you can't see out. One standard for US Army vehicle operators is that the driver gets out and cleans the windows if you are at a stop for more than 5-10 minutes. It is a safety issue and a combat effectiveness issue. Like I said, if you can't see out, you are pretty ineffective.

I agree on the spare tire,what is holding it onto the brush guard. It looks to be just floating there. It needs some type of bracket or bolts to hold it there. The tire type for the spare is not really correct either. The spare is the older bias ply (non-radial) tire, while the vehicle tires are the radial type. Usually, the spare will be the same type as the rest since the two tires are not the same size and will ride differently.

Lastly, the add on panels to the doors were mainly made from sheet steel that the unit made themselves. They were most commonly left unpainted, bare metal. Like below (you can see the reflector and marker light colors here too):



Overall, a great job. A few tweaks and it can be even better.
DonnyT
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Singapore / 新加坡
Joined: November 22, 2006
KitMaker: 74 posts
Armorama: 67 posts
Posted: Monday, November 01, 2010 - 11:18 AM UTC
Nice catch Matthew... the spare wheel is held on just by a plastic bracket behind the wheels glued on to the bumper, i do not know if this is the right way, if possible could you kindly share with me what is the right way the spare is been held on the bumper? Did some research on the net on uparmoured Hummvee but all turn out to be M1114 or M1115 version whereby the spare is been held behind by a special rack.. Thanks in advance..
DonnyT
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Singapore / 新加坡
Joined: November 22, 2006
KitMaker: 74 posts
Armorama: 67 posts
Posted: Monday, November 01, 2010 - 11:21 AM UTC

Quoted Text

with glue...duh (just kidding), good question

Looks good, Donny. I see the radio equipment inside through the dusted windows. Is the roof or doors removable to show your interior details?





haha you are right... the spare is held on with glue as i mention to matthew.

hmm... i did not pay much attention to the interior, just paint it nato green and a simply wash and dusting as i do not intend t o show the interior.
DonnyT
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Singapore / 新加坡
Joined: November 22, 2006
KitMaker: 74 posts
Armorama: 67 posts
Posted: Monday, November 01, 2010 - 11:26 AM UTC

Quoted Text

It looks really good. The Blast set came out nicely. I also like your weathering. A couple pointers though.

The rear reflectors look amber, they should be red. The same for the front side position lights. They look red and should be amber. Basically, the position lights, reflectors and turn signals for the rear should be red. The position lights, reflectors and turn signals for the front should all be amber.

The foggy windows don't look right. If the windows are dirty and fogged, you can't see out. One standard for US Army vehicle operators is that the driver gets out and cleans the windows if you are at a stop for more than 5-10 minutes. It is a safety issue and a combat effectiveness issue. Like I said, if you can't see out, you are pretty ineffective.

I agree on the spare tire,what is holding it onto the brush guard. It looks to be just floating there. It needs some type of bracket or bolts to hold it there. The tire type for the spare is not really correct either. The spare is the older bias ply (non-radial) tire, while the vehicle tires are the radial type. Usually, the spare will be the same type as the rest since the two tires are not the same size and will ride differently.

Lastly, the add on panels to the doors were mainly made from sheet steel that the unit made themselves. They were most commonly left unpainted, bare metal. Like below (you can see the reflector and marker light colors here too):



Overall, a great job. A few tweaks and it can be even better.




Thanks Gino for your kind words... your advice is valuable, i will take note on my next build (Bronco M1114) .
DonnyT
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Singapore / 新加坡
Joined: November 22, 2006
KitMaker: 74 posts
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Posted: Monday, November 01, 2010 - 11:28 AM UTC

Quoted Text

real nice work, Donny!



Thanks Jason.
Shanelangston
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Wyoming, United States
Joined: October 27, 2010
KitMaker: 85 posts
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Posted: Monday, November 01, 2010 - 01:17 PM UTC
The only thing I would suggest is your rope needs a bit of work.

Ropes that are possibly to be used for towing would be tighter wound. A rope that is unwound and frayed looking like that would most likely break and would just be thrown in the ditch.

I am truly not criticizing. i really dig the build, just something that I noticed and thought that doesn't look right.
redmike
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Ohio, United States
Joined: March 06, 2006
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Posted: Monday, November 01, 2010 - 04:48 PM UTC
Looks great good and beat up
Frenchy
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Rhone, France
Joined: December 02, 2002
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Posted: Monday, November 01, 2010 - 06:52 PM UTC
Hi Donny

Maybe you coud use some ratchet straps to secure the spare wheel ?



HTH

Frenchy
DonnyT
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Singapore / 新加坡
Joined: November 22, 2006
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Posted: Tuesday, November 02, 2010 - 12:39 AM UTC

Quoted Text

The only thing I would suggest is your rope needs a bit of work.

Ropes that are possibly to be used for towing would be tighter wound. A rope that is unwound and frayed looking like that would most likely break and would just be thrown in the ditch.

I am truly not criticizing. i really dig the build, just something that I noticed and thought that doesn't look right.



Hi no hard feelings at all, one of the purpose in this forum is to learn from each other work... i will take note in my next build regarding your comment.
DonnyT
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Singapore / 新加坡
Joined: November 22, 2006
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Posted: Tuesday, November 02, 2010 - 12:40 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Looks great good and beat up



Thanks Mike for your kind words...
DonnyT
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Singapore / 新加坡
Joined: November 22, 2006
KitMaker: 74 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, November 02, 2010 - 12:48 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi Donny

Maybe you coud use some ratchet straps to secure the spare wheel ?



HTH

Frenchy




Nice pic Frenchy, however i am curious about how the spare is mounted on the brush guard, the spare on your photos shows that it is mounted on the tow hook...? Anyway it was interesting to see a Tow hummvee turret with a ermm M249?
Frenchy
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Rhone, France
Joined: December 02, 2002
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Posted: Tuesday, November 02, 2010 - 05:11 AM UTC
Donny

In fact I haven't found any picture showing the spare wheel mounted as per your build The M1025 pics I have show the spare wheel (when present) strapped to the rear hatch :



But of course this doesn't mean it doesn't happen

Frenchy
henkp
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Overijssel, Netherlands
Joined: September 30, 2005
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Posted: Tuesday, November 02, 2010 - 05:38 AM UTC
like this henk
18Bravo
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Colorado, United States
Joined: January 20, 2005
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Posted: Tuesday, November 02, 2010 - 07:35 AM UTC
Wow! One of the images supplied to us by "Matte Black."

I completely forgot about that one.
cbreeze
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Illinois, United States
Joined: August 15, 2005
KitMaker: 87 posts
Armorama: 83 posts
Posted: Wednesday, November 03, 2010 - 12:58 PM UTC
Greetings,

Very nice build and I like the weathering. I am presently working on the same kit.

Did you use the kit wheels? I was wondering how you did and how they took to the weathering. I have never tried to weather vinyl wheels so I picked up some resin ones for mine.

Cbreeze
DonnyT
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Singapore / 新加坡
Joined: November 22, 2006
KitMaker: 74 posts
Armorama: 67 posts
Posted: Wednesday, November 03, 2010 - 10:27 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Greetings,

Very nice build and I like the weathering. I am presently working on the same kit.

Did you use the kit wheels? I was wondering how you did and how they took to the weathering. I have never tried to weather vinyl wheels so I picked up some resin ones for mine.

Cbreeze



Hi Charles,

Thanks for your comment, the spare wheel is the Tamiya kit wheel (Vinyl) whereas the rest of the wheels is from blast model (Rasin)... as u can see the vinyl tyre took the weathering quite well, no special method was use, i applied the same weathering technique for all wheels.

As Gino pointed out the spare wheel should not be use on my model as it is different era from the main wheel, Tamiya (Older), Blast (Newer)... i still went ahead with the spare although i know they are of different era but i doesnt want my model to look too plain (hmmm without the spare may change the outlook of the model?)..... anyway it was a good point brought out by Gino.

Happy modelling......
cbreeze
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Illinois, United States
Joined: August 15, 2005
KitMaker: 87 posts
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Posted: Thursday, November 04, 2010 - 01:39 AM UTC
Donny,

By weathering the wheels, did you paint them or just weathered with pigments? I am in the process of switching to acrylics so that is what I would use if I choose to paint them.

I personally don't think that the different wheels make a difference. Some people are real picky when it comes to that sort of thing but in real life, any combinations are possible. I also see wheels mounted on the rear of civilian vehicles all the time with no visible signs of attachment. I guess I am just not a rivet counter.

Cbreeze
DonnyT
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Singapore / 新加坡
Joined: November 22, 2006
KitMaker: 74 posts
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Posted: Thursday, November 04, 2010 - 04:16 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Donny,

By weathering the wheels, did you paint them or just weathered with pigments? I am in the process of switching to acrylics so that is what I would use if I choose to paint them.

I personally don't think that the different wheels make a difference. Some people are real picky when it comes to that sort of thing but in real life, any combinations are possible. I also see wheels mounted on the rear of civilian vehicles all the time with no visible signs of attachment. I guess I am just not a rivet counter.

Cbreeze



Yes Charles, i did paint them with vallejo acrylic black for the tyre and desert colour for the rims. As for weathering them, it takes a few step...

1st i use diluted (w Tamiya enamal tinner) buff color oil paint and apply it on the whole wheel, the buff color will then sip into the thread pattern of the tyre, then dry the surface using hairdryer.

2nd after touch dry, i mix sand pigment with enamal tinner and apply it on the whole wheel to give it some texture of dry sand and dust then i use the hairdryer again to also speed up the drying process; you will notice the change in colour when the mixture dries up.

3rd once touch dry (Feels Sandy), i use a worn brush to removes the unwanted dry pigment on the high point (area of contact).

Last step and i think its the most impt step is to use black pigment on your index finger and give a light run on the raise thread pattern and side wall of the tyre... this step really brings up the high point i.e the "Goodyear" marking on the side wall and the thread pattern.

And that is all for the weathering of my humvee wheels...

See ya and enjoy your build.
HeavyArty
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Florida, United States
Joined: May 16, 2002
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Posted: Thursday, November 04, 2010 - 05:12 AM UTC

Quoted Text

...this step really brings up the high point i.e the "Goodyear" marking on the side wall...



You mean "GOO YEAR" since it is misspelled on the tires.

The suspicion is that it was intentionally misspelled to avoid licensing fees.
jwest21
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Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: October 16, 2006
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Posted: Thursday, November 04, 2010 - 05:41 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

...this step really brings up the high point i.e the "Goodyear" marking on the side wall...



You mean "GOO YEAR" since it is misspelled on the tires.

The suspicion is that it was intentionally misspelled to avoid licensing fees.


the "D" is sold seperately
Removed by original poster on 11/22/10 - 19:10:26 (GMT).
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