Greetings,
I am build the 1/35 Tamiya HUMVEE armament carrier. I would like to pose it with at least the front drivers door open. I am would appreciate any suggestions on how to do this. In looking at the model, I could probably glue the door to the hinge on the body but there isn't mush surface area to work with and I am thinking that this would not be strong enough. I have seen some HUMVEE builds with the doors open and would sure appreciate some ideas.
Thanks,
Cbreeze
Hosted by Darren Baker
Tamia HUMVEE door question.
cbreeze
Illinois, United States
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Posted: Saturday, November 20, 2010 - 02:30 PM UTC
Posted: Saturday, November 20, 2010 - 03:50 PM UTC
The best thing I know to do is to use a small drop of super glue at each hinge then touch it up with paint as needed.
Frenchy
Rhone, France
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Posted: Saturday, November 20, 2010 - 08:05 PM UTC
Hi Charles
Eduard's set #35629 for the M1025 includes "workable" hinges :
http://www.eduard.com/products/pdf/n35/35629_5.pdf
HTH
Frenchy
Eduard's set #35629 for the M1025 includes "workable" hinges :
http://www.eduard.com/products/pdf/n35/35629_5.pdf
HTH
Frenchy
18Bravo
Colorado, United States
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Posted: Saturday, November 20, 2010 - 09:34 PM UTC
With a no. 80 bit, drill holes into the doors, insert brass wire, and drill corresponding holes in door frame. Insert other end of brass wire into frame. Wire is the only thing holding these doors on-no cement. That way, they can easily be removed when transporting, and won't break off.
Posted: Sunday, November 21, 2010 - 04:00 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Hi Charles
Eduard's set #35629 for the M1025 includes "workable" hinges :
HTH
Frenchy
Has anyone here actually assembled the 'workable' hinges?
bison126
Correze, France
Joined: June 10, 2004
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Posted: Sunday, November 21, 2010 - 04:23 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Has anyone here actually assembled the 'workable' hinges?
Yep Sir
This is the M1046 Humvee but the Eduard hinges are the same.
If you don't intend to put some bucks into this set just for the 4 doors hinges parts, you can do what I did on my M1025 i.e. sanding the door hinges at an angle to make a bevel (does it make sense ?). This way the contact surface will be "larger" and will ease the gluing process.
Olivier
cbreeze
Illinois, United States
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Posted: Sunday, November 21, 2010 - 05:30 AM UTC
Thanks to all that replied and there are some awesome builds pictured here. I have always been an airplane guy and this is my first armor build and am having a ball with the build. That Eduard detail set looks like a must have for the next one.
18Bravo, I like your idea and might be the best way to go right now. I was kind of thinking something in that directioin anyway. One more question, I understand what you did but am wondering if you drilled you hole and inserted the wire down through the top of the hinge (like an actual hinge pin) or into the side horizontally?
Thanks again,
Cbreeze
18Bravo, I like your idea and might be the best way to go right now. I was kind of thinking something in that directioin anyway. One more question, I understand what you did but am wondering if you drilled you hole and inserted the wire down through the top of the hinge (like an actual hinge pin) or into the side horizontally?
Thanks again,
Cbreeze
18Bravo
Colorado, United States
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Posted: Sunday, November 21, 2010 - 08:20 AM UTC
In another life I used to do things like that, but no, the wire doesn't come down through the hinge like the real thing. As you said, it's horizontal-it goes into the cross section of the door. Actually "they" because there are two on each door. Then drill horizontal holes into the door frame at an angle on the same plane as you want to display the open door. Insert the wires and your'e done.
The great thing about this is you can do it all after final painting, and no CA or cement is required.
The doors will hang true because they're not heavy enough to pull out the top wire, and the bottom of the door has no place to go anyway.
The great thing about this is you can do it all after final painting, and no CA or cement is required.
The doors will hang true because they're not heavy enough to pull out the top wire, and the bottom of the door has no place to go anyway.
cbreeze
Illinois, United States
Joined: August 15, 2005
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Posted: Sunday, November 21, 2010 - 02:10 PM UTC
18Bravo,
Thanks for clearing that up. Your idea is the way I am going to go.
cbreeze
Thanks for clearing that up. Your idea is the way I am going to go.
cbreeze
bison126
Correze, France
Joined: June 10, 2004
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Posted: Sunday, November 21, 2010 - 07:00 PM UTC
Quoted Text
In another life I used to do things like that, but no, the wire doesn't come down through the hinge like the real thing. As you said, it's horizontal-it goes into the cross section of the door. Actually "they" because there are two on each door. Then drill horizontal holes into the door frame at an angle on the same plane as you want to display the open door. Insert the wires and your'e done.
The great thing about this is you can do it all after final painting, and no CA or cement is required.
The doors will hang true because they're not heavy enough to pull out the top wire, and the bottom of the door has no place to go anyway.
Thanks for the tip Robert. It's an easy one and will save some hard times on future projects !