Lee Lloyd has written another great article on creating realistic weld seams for armor and other applications. A real nicely put forth piece. Check it out here:
How to Create Accurate Weld Effects
As ussual should you want to discuss this subject or have feedback on this article please post it here.
Thanks Lee!
Cheers,
Jim
Armor/AFV
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For discussions on tanks, artillery, jeeps, etc.
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New Feature: How to Create Weld Seams
Posted: Tuesday, August 26, 2003 - 06:42 PM UTC

MadMax

Joined: August 19, 2003
KitMaker: 248 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 26, 2003 - 07:11 PM UTC
thx for the good article!

BroAbrams

Joined: October 02, 2002
KitMaker: 1,546 posts
Armorama: 1,081 posts

Posted: Wednesday, August 27, 2003 - 12:11 AM UTC
Another great article by the king of super-detail. I was especially impressed with the triple weld part and it's replication. Lee and I are still trying to find a way to do weld writing. The problem is that it has to be very, very tiny, yet still legible. If anyone thinks of something let me know.
Rob
Rob

Hollowpoint

Joined: January 24, 2002
KitMaker: 2,748 posts
Armorama: 1,797 posts

Posted: Wednesday, August 27, 2003 - 12:33 AM UTC
Very nicely illustrated article. I've tried both the Milliputt technique, as well as the styrene strip/rod and teh hot knife techniques. My favorite for most applications is using styrene strip/rod, but there are places where the other techniques work better. Lee's Milliputt technique is especially effective on armor with big, multiple line welds, like on later German Armor and Russian armor.
Rob: What does "weld writing" look like? If I know what you're trying to model, I might have an idea or two.
Rob: What does "weld writing" look like? If I know what you're trying to model, I might have an idea or two.

BroAbrams

Joined: October 02, 2002
KitMaker: 1,546 posts
Armorama: 1,081 posts

Posted: Wednesday, August 27, 2003 - 06:04 AM UTC
Some tanks like the abrams have their serial numbers written with welding rods so they are indestructable. Like this:


ArmouredSprue

Joined: January 09, 2002
KitMaker: 1,958 posts
Armorama: 1,003 posts

Posted: Thursday, September 04, 2003 - 01:24 PM UTC
Jim, this site always surprises me!
I really love this feature...I have to try this aproach for my next weld seams on my models, I always used the pyrogravure method.....
Thank you....
Cheers
I really love this feature...I have to try this aproach for my next weld seams on my models, I always used the pyrogravure method.....
Thank you....
Cheers


airwarrior

Joined: November 21, 2002
KitMaker: 2,085 posts
Armorama: 1,227 posts

Posted: Thursday, September 04, 2003 - 02:08 PM UTC
I read this in a
book once,but maybe it would work in a different way,In the book it said to slightly push a pin(not heated) in to the pastic,so it forms a bulge around the tiny ark,that traps the paint and makes a rivit,maybe if you scribed very lightly with that pin to make the letters,and painted,you would get the same affect



BroAbrams

Joined: October 02, 2002
KitMaker: 1,546 posts
Armorama: 1,081 posts

Posted: Friday, September 05, 2003 - 02:05 AM UTC
That's an interesting thought Dave, thanks
Rob
Rob

Fairfax

Joined: July 01, 2002
KitMaker: 61 posts
Armorama: 0 posts

Posted: Saturday, September 06, 2003 - 01:47 PM UTC
Thanks Jim! Your article serves to inspire me to continue with weld seam additions. I've almost given up with the styrene rod method (making it gooey & soft first using thin plastic cement then scribing the weld pattern with a hobby knife). The cement tends to somewhat ruin the surrounding plastic, making the model's surface finish look terrible. The next weld seams on my models will definitely be made of Milliput.... Cheers!
Dennis
Dennis

blaster76

Joined: September 15, 2002
KitMaker: 8,985 posts
Armorama: 3,034 posts

Posted: Saturday, September 06, 2003 - 06:20 PM UTC
Like learning there are more ways to do a difficult task. That's one thing I can always count on here and that's learning new techniques and even getting ideas on areas I hadn't even considered before.

GeneralFailure

Joined: February 15, 2002
KitMaker: 2,289 posts
Armorama: 1,231 posts

Posted: Wednesday, September 17, 2003 - 08:51 AM UTC
This is a good article. Wonderfully illustrated. Quality job. Thank you !

TUNA

Joined: March 16, 2003
KitMaker: 449 posts
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Posted: Wednesday, September 17, 2003 - 01:26 PM UTC
Excellent Article... Made sure I printed it out for future referance!!
:-)
:-)

shiryon

Joined: April 26, 2002
KitMaker: 876 posts
Armorama: 606 posts

Posted: Thursday, September 18, 2003 - 11:18 AM UTC
Another informative and well written article. Keep em' comin.
Joshua Weingarten
IDF Armour Group
www.homestead.com/shiryon/index.html
Joshua Weingarten
IDF Armour Group
www.homestead.com/shiryon/index.html

shiryon

Joined: April 26, 2002
KitMaker: 876 posts
Armorama: 606 posts

Posted: Thursday, September 18, 2003 - 11:18 AM UTC
Another informative and well written article. Keep em' comin.
Joshua Weingarten
IDF Armour Group
www.homestead.com/shiryon/index.html
Joshua Weingarten
IDF Armour Group
www.homestead.com/shiryon/index.html
Removed by original poster on 03/04/10 - 02:31:18 (GMT).

18Bravo

Joined: January 20, 2005
KitMaker: 7,219 posts
Armorama: 6,097 posts

Posted: Tuesday, March 02, 2010 - 01:02 PM UTC
This article still remains a classic. I notice some were asking about welded on writing. I've posted picks of the Abrams welded on numbers before which look far better than the DML numbers. There's a clear rubbery substance (I can't remember the name of it as it dried up at least ten years ago) that you can purchase at art supply stores. It can be applied with a syringe (through the needle even) and takes paint very well. I'll see if I can find it next week when I get home, unless someone else knows what it's called.

cpt_Hobo

Joined: August 28, 2009
KitMaker: 33 posts
Armorama: 32 posts

Posted: Tuesday, March 02, 2010 - 09:25 PM UTC
spot on

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