Not one fit issue what so ever, it was pretty much "shake and bake" right out of the box. I would say fit is on par with Tamiya kits.
I did use the AFV Club tracks however there's no slots for the sproket teeth to come through. Since it ddn't look too bad I decided not to attempt to modify the tracks.
You can't go wrong with the Academy M-60. For those that choose to super-detail, there's quite a bit of M-60 aftermarket stuff out there. Other than the tracks this kit was OOTB.
I didn't use the KMT mine roller that came with the kit. Saving that for when I pick up a Trumpeter T-62 or maybe another Tamiya T-55. The T-62 I plan will be Syrian and the T-55 Egyptian. Not sure which one will get the mine roller.
By the way, for those who are interested, here's how I obtain the color modulation:
1. After assembly I prime the kit using the white Tamiya Surfacer out of the spray can. Then correct any imperfections that show up with a fine sponge sander.
2. Paint the entire model acrylic gloss back.
3. Paint the model in the appropriate color (Tamyia is my standard, Polly Scale is second choice) using very thin mists of a 50/50 mix paint to thinner.
4. Mix two or three variations of the basic color with white, buff, and light grey. I thin this to 50/50 again except I use laquer thinner for the variating colors.
5. I hit the "high points" with very thin mists until the desired color variation is reached. (I over do it here since it will get toned down with the wash).
6. Heavily gloss coat the model with Future floor wax.
7. I make a heavy wash of burnt umber, raw umber, burnt sienna, or raw sienna with turrpenoid and using a wide brush cover the entire model. Again, the wash will look very much over done.
8. I let the heavy wash set up for a few hours or sometime overnight. I then very lightly dampen a wide brush with turpentin and remove the excess dark wash. Make sure to clean the brush off with a paper towel after each "sweep".
9. I do a pin wash for any "special areas" that may require a more rusty, oily, etc.. finish.
10. Flatten the finish with Testors Dullcoate.
11. I dry bush any raised areas to bring out more depth. I usually take the base color and lighten it a bit more for the dry brushing. I also use some Dr. Brigadoon's pigments to create dust, mud, rust, etc.
12. Repeat Step 10
13. I use a silver pencil to highlight. I also use a silver pastel for areas that need to show much more exposed metal.
14. Admire work.
Rob
Rob