Hi, i dont post on here much, but i regulary browse the site. I need help with washes, so far ive read about numerous different ways of doing a wash, some people say use thinner and others say turpentine.

I have personally tried with thinner and failed on an epic scale, once ive applied the top coat after primer, i give the model a gloss coat of varnish, i then wait for that to dry and apply a wash of enamel with thinner, then when i go to take the excess off the thinners strips everything bare . I am totally at a loss with this a need help.

Can you please list the methods and ways of applying a wash a successfully taking off the excess without damaging the paint -
1) what coat goes on after the top coat.
2) how to apply the wash and what its made up of e.g. thinner or turpentine.
3) how to remove the excess.

Please guys and gals, dont send links because ive read alot of them and i cant seem to get my head round it. :/ any help would be greatly appretiated.

tom

Tom members can tell you how they do washes but I suspect they all have slightly differant methods. I will say that it will help you tp look at some of the build features on this site to see how the members who sent them in did it. I also suggest that you get yourself a copy of the DVD from AK interactive/AK interactive USA called washes, fading, and oils as it is a very good DVD for explaining the application of these effects.

hiya tom
i'm gettin into washes as well and will monitor your thread here, as there are some great people on here who can and will help you, so i will ride the coatails of this one if you don't mind.

http://www.promodeller.com/promodellers-weathering-wash/
this site has free videos that may help, i am studying them now and its helpful to listen and see how its done. not just a read link

reb

How much time did you wait? Yf you use Humbrol enamels, you'll have to wait at least 3 days to avoid problems.

It could be better working on a small area with little amount of thinner. A lot of thinner on the model could make damages





The gloss varnish was acrilyc varnish or was an enamel paint? To avoid the paint stripping you should get on your model an uniform thin coat of acrylic glass varnish (Tamiya xf22 or Gunze for exemple). Torpenoid or enamel thinner can't solve the acrilyc layer so you can make your filter without worries

Otherwise, if you use acrilyc paint you can skip the glass coat, although glass or satin surfeces make easier the washes and the filters.

Anyway here you are a link that i hope can be useful for you.

http://missing-lynx.com/rareworld.htm

cheers

my process, i go off of the stickied weathering process within this section of the forum. works well. over the camoflauge, i use future as a gloss coat. then apply the overall wash. just as long as your not scrubbing on it, it shouldnt be a problem.....dont be stingy with the gloss coat. perhaps thats why? to little may just allow the thinners to eat through it that quick? personally,. the current model im on, i applied too light of a wash/filter...i couldnt even scrub it off. so, if its coming off that quick for you, i would say it hasnt had enough drying time for the gloss coat or there isnt enough of a gloss layer on it?

Hi Thomas,when you say thinnersdo you mean a branded thinners like Humbrol or Revell,the reason i ask is because i used Revell thinners to thin some enamels and when I applied it the paint was stripped down to the primer some of that stuff is viscious.When i do a enamel wash i use ordinary white spirit from homebase or B&Q low odour is best cos it stinks worse thing to happenis it may dissolve your glue and bits fall off but if you put a gloss coat on first you should be ok Like the man said give your enamels a couple of days to dry fully.If you wash with acrylics dissolved in water they will not effect enamels or enamels in white spirit over acrylics will do no .harm and enamels over enamels is ok as long as the paint is fully dry. Hope this helps

If you paint with enamels, you must give the paint time to harden through, several days, at least (I wait a week). Also, don't use too hot a thinner, or it will lift previous paint coats. I just use ordinary paint thinner (white spirit) for detail washes. I don't apply a lot and then try to mop it off--that's an approach that has never made sense to me, and is almost guaranteed to make a mess of things. Build up color slowly, and less is more--stop just before you think you've done enough.
For general weathering, I like to use artists watercolors, which are available in the same colors as oils, and can be rinsed off if you don't like an effect. Once you are happy, just overspray with clear flat to make it permanent. Thin the tube water color with tap water. If it beads up, add a tiny amount of dishwashing liquid to break up the surface tension, or use the specialized flow enhancer available as an additive in art supply shops. If you do get a ring or "tide mark," just scrub it gently with a moist brush, and it will disappear.

Thanks for the tips guys, finally went with Rebelsoldiers idea and using promoddlers products. Its really easy to remove seeing as its like chalky water, only have to use kitchen paper . Used it on a recent build, got an early christmas present from my GF, tamiya 1/16 german machine gunner and hes scrubbed up quite nice, the wash has given him a dull and worn look .