"schwing!"

I am inspired to see a cam pattern applied in a single session, cleanup aside.

The flesh colour you used - by that token does it mean the tan in the mouse house kit could double as a flesh skin tone for figures?

Also is it usual to apply the green first and then the sand and black ? I was planning on doing the base in sand/tan (like they do in the workshop) and then doing a pre shading with black and another sand basecoat. But if you think green should be first I would be interested in your reasons for doing it that way round.

The od does look rather flat. I have a few tins of the WEM od but never used it, I have the MH set and can safely say that the little bit I did paint dries with a pleasing very low sheen - maybe a 2 out of 10 on a gloss scale (10 being full gloss , 0 being total flat).

Looking good.. going to be very very interested in how you weather this puppy.

Adamskii

Great job Sam,

And thanks for answering Adams question as I had the same one. I am only new at using an airbrush, so I have another question for you, I noticed that you have a fair bit of equipment stowed on the vehicle before you paint . WHat do you look for when deciding what should be on the vehicle before painting? and I assume this is so you don't ruin the paint job trying to glue them on later, so do you go along with a brush later and repaint the stowed items if required?

I realise these sound like amateure questions but when it comes to airbrushing I'm definately an amateur

Cheers

As an aside do you happen to know if the ASLAV -25 has anti-slip stuff on the turret as well?

G'day Jason,

I just had a look at the link you provided with the non-slip coating. I was a little unsure so I had a look at my pictures and I am now 99.9% sure that there is no non-slip coating on the front glacia plates either side of the mantlet. Just to confirm, I'm talking about the front two sections in your picture. As I said I'm 99.9% sure and give me a week and I'll confirm excactly for you.