I have almost completed a JSU-152 from cyberhobby, I have given the whole model, excluding the tools and treads, a spray of model master dark green enamel. How should I paint the treads? I plan on weathering(my first attempt) so should I use a particular sealent and for a first time should I just wash or should I attempt chipping. What basic paints do the treads need? Thank you for answering my confusing questions!

*****EDIT**** Okay, so for a white and green camoflaudge would a yellowish and a grayish filter be appropriate with a brown wash? And what do they mean by a satin surface? Is there a special type of sealant or is it just the glossy clearcoat?????

Glossy clearcoat, a lot of guys use Future and I plan on using it myself soon, allows the washes, stains, etc to flow over the surfaces better and without creating those unsavoury hard edges and stuff we all try to avoid

Satin dulls down the finish without making it perfectly flat. A step between gloss and flat if you will.

For tracks I basecoat in Tamiya XF-64,I will do an enamel burnt umber and black wash,and I really like Mig Products Tank tread brown pigment.Then a light dusting with whatever envirioment your tank will be in.

so I'll do a brown wash with some pigment dusting, okay? And for the treads I'll coat in steel with rust color over it. Thanks yall!

be careful with the rust on the tracks,they dont really rust unless the tank is knocked out or sitting for awhile.

best wishes on your project.

Wash is a complete fail, thinner is untainted and enamel paint is sitting at the bottom of the cup, looking a lot like orange juice pulp, except brown. Help!

Misha, don't panic!

Paint you tracks with a dark brown base coat and then, after the varnish is cured, put with a brush dry pigments on the track. Don't exaggerate and take your time. You have to simulate the mud with the brown pigment and the rust with the red one. It could be useful for you watching some reference images.
When the result seems realistic to you, you have to fix your pigments (you can also skip this step but this way your pigments will go away during the time)
To fix it you have to wet it with a little amount of thinner. You don't have to wash your tracks. You have to add the thinner drop to drop with a middle size brush
If you want, after the first brown coat and before applying pigmant you can do a light drybrush on the tracks with metal enamel and you can pass a pencil mine on them to simulate the iron reflections. Those techniques are easier to do if you use plastic or metal tracks, a little less effective if you use vinyl parts. If you use Friulmodel tracs (so metal parts) you can substitute the metal drybrushing step sanding very lightly the traks with a fine abrasive sponge or with sandpaper

I hope that's helpful for you

Cheers