Hello Gents!
Just sprayed the base coat on a Tamiya Stug III G... (Tamiya XF-60 with some white for scale effect/highlights).
What oil paint colors would be nice for the dot method for painy fading? I won't camo it, just dark yellow. Paint aready sealed with Future, too.
Also, stupid question, but this would be my first try on the dot paint thing... chips and washes go before the dot fading?
Thanks!!!
Jorge
AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Matthew Toms
Fading with Oils

CJ3B

Joined: April 11, 2006
KitMaker: 245 posts
Armorama: 235 posts

Posted: Sunday, December 26, 2010 - 10:10 PM UTC

Spiderfrommars

Joined: July 13, 2010
KitMaker: 3,845 posts
Armorama: 3,543 posts

Posted: Sunday, December 26, 2010 - 10:42 PM UTC
Hi Jorge
This link can help you
http://www.gamerabaenre.com/fade.htm
The technique is applied on SF model but it doesn't matter
Chips and washes go after the dot fading (to be exact dots fading is a kind of filter technique)
To dilute dots you're going to use thinner. If on your model there are already washes and chips, you'll wipe away
Cheers
This link can help you
http://www.gamerabaenre.com/fade.htm
The technique is applied on SF model but it doesn't matter
Chips and washes go after the dot fading (to be exact dots fading is a kind of filter technique)
To dilute dots you're going to use thinner. If on your model there are already washes and chips, you'll wipe away
Cheers

MSGsummit

Joined: November 16, 2002
KitMaker: 751 posts
Armorama: 545 posts

Posted: Monday, December 27, 2010 - 01:41 AM UTC
Jorge,
When I use the dot method I use Burnt umber, naples yellow, raw umber, yellow ochre, pale yellow ochre and titanium white applied in a totally random pattern. Sometimes I even add a few red and blue dots. I use Winsor and Newton Artist oils. They take forever to dry though.
When I use the dot method I use Burnt umber, naples yellow, raw umber, yellow ochre, pale yellow ochre and titanium white applied in a totally random pattern. Sometimes I even add a few red and blue dots. I use Winsor and Newton Artist oils. They take forever to dry though.

CJ3B

Joined: April 11, 2006
KitMaker: 245 posts
Armorama: 235 posts

Posted: Monday, December 27, 2010 - 07:40 AM UTC
Thank you!

CJ3B

Joined: April 11, 2006
KitMaker: 245 posts
Armorama: 235 posts

Posted: Monday, December 27, 2010 - 07:41 AM UTC
Thnkas, Art!

collin26

Joined: March 24, 2007
KitMaker: 317 posts
Armorama: 259 posts

Posted: Tuesday, December 28, 2010 - 01:52 PM UTC
George,
You can also add a bit more depth by applying darker dots closer to the bottom of the vehicle and darker dot or two under features that would naturaly cause a shadow.
Also, chipping should be done AFTER oild fading method. I would suggest using an acrylic such as LifeColor -or- Vallejo acrylics for your chipping over oil fading ........BUT..........be sure that your oils are dry or you will end up with a mess on your hands (and model).
You can also add a bit more depth by applying darker dots closer to the bottom of the vehicle and darker dot or two under features that would naturaly cause a shadow.
Also, chipping should be done AFTER oild fading method. I would suggest using an acrylic such as LifeColor -or- Vallejo acrylics for your chipping over oil fading ........BUT..........be sure that your oils are dry or you will end up with a mess on your hands (and model).

MUNROS

Joined: September 24, 2010
KitMaker: 75 posts
Armorama: 43 posts

Posted: Thursday, December 30, 2010 - 12:50 AM UTC
Hi Jorge. I'm doing a DML FLAK88, painted the same color. I'm using raw umber, white, gold ochre, and yellow, all oils. Only reason is, these are what i have on hand. Don't mean to tell you what to do, but... I think you'll find you'll get a much better result if you do the dot method over a satin, or flat clear coat, instead of the future. You're just not going to be able to blend everything together. You'll end up just whipping it off, when applied over the gloss coat. RONNY.


CJ3B

Joined: April 11, 2006
KitMaker: 245 posts
Armorama: 235 posts

Posted: Sunday, January 02, 2011 - 04:25 AM UTC
Thanks, Gents!
I think that I will be aplying th Microsol Flat that I have, then take care of the rest...
I think that I will be aplying th Microsol Flat that I have, then take care of the rest...
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