Hello every one
just half way through a land rover with 2 sheets of etch,just wondering whats going to be best way to clean it all before paint.ushually use a tooth brush but of course thats a no go, should i go with a simple bath or use one of those cans of model kit cleaner? if i go with the can do i then need to get rid of the cleaning residue? of course there's sanding dust,finger prints and cyno activater to remove.

i use alcohol (denatured) to clean any finger grease/etc from the model. works a charm.
I use either a tack cloth or a sponge, the eye makeup sponges work a treat.

http://italianhorses.net/Tutorials/Photoetch/pe.htm

hope this helps you.

reb

Stephen,

I usually use a simple "bath" of tepid water and a few drops of liquid dish washing soap. Depending on the size of the model, I'll either mix this up in a large plastic salid bowl just in the sink (plugged, of course).

I immerse the entire model (most often still in sub-assemblies for painting) and gently agitate the surfaces with a large, round water color paint brush. I take my time and allow the model to soak a bit as I'm cleaning it. I usually agitate the surface of the model while holding it under the soapy water if I can.

For rinsing, I run fresh, tepid water from the tap over the model. Obviously, I don't use a strong stream of water, just a light flow from the tap. I rinse over either the same bowl or a plugged sink.

Sometimes I break a part or two off, but these get caught in the bowl or sink. However, this is the exception and not the rule. I figure if I can build it, I can handle it enough to wash it, and this is usually the case.

I drain the model parts after rinsing and dry while spread out on paper towels, usually over night is good enough. If I'm rushing things a bit, I'll use my airbrush to blow compressed air into nooks and crannies before I paint to be sure that all the water has dried out. I also use small "twists" of paper towel to draw water droplets out of tight spots, if needed. I usually do this after I've laid all the parts out to dry immediately after washing. The less water on or in the model, the faster it will air dry.

I've found that if I clean the model well, that I don't need primer paints, so I don't prime my models. I've some models that I built as far bask as the mid-80's with "On the Mark Models" PE parts that have never lost a bit of paint from the un-primered parts. I only ever routinly prime figures, and those only to ensure that the colors remain consistant, especially on the flesh areas.

Anyways, that's my .02.

HTH,
Mike

Thats a great link! thanks!

I don't see any point in using primer unless half the kit is PE. Even then, those subassemblies can be primed off the vehicle.

Primer eats detail if it's used too liberally.

I have seen some awesome paint jobs using a technique of pre-shading with primer.

I can't say I have ever primed a model, not even sanded it.. This has never caused me a problem. I use a lint free surgical cloth and methylated spirits to clean my models before painting... if I remember..

Every one has there own methods and techniques they use. If it works for you that is great, but occaisionally you find a new technique that you incorporate into your procedures.