Hi all, im quite new too the whole diorama modelling thing, ive only made one before so I dont know much.
I want to make a 1/72 scale dio of an Stridsvagn 103 (S-Tank) in a hull down/dug in postion, but i have'nt a clue how to make it look dug in? I was wondering if anyone knew how to do this?
Anyhelp would be greatly appreciated
Hosted by Darren Baker
Tank in Dug in postion
matt7871
England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
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Posted: Friday, December 31, 2010 - 03:32 AM UTC
Paulinsibculo
Overijssel, Netherlands
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Posted: Friday, December 31, 2010 - 04:20 AM UTC
Dear Matt,
Dug in positions for weapon systems which tactics are mainly based on maouverability such as tanks and sp anti tank systems, are used in prepared defence lines. These positions are prepared by the engineers with the help of shovels (in the Dutch army types derivated from civil types like 'Werklust' ) and/or dozer tanks like the leopard engineering tank.
The size of these pits have to fit to the tank or sp gun it was intended for. The gun system is just above the normal earth level, but able to move. Furthermore, the position not seldomly is camouflaged at the enemy's side and for air recognition. Since quite some earth is moved, this is a hell of job!
Do not forget to make a slope side to enable the system to drive in, but also easily out. Dutch centurions and leopards, but also the AMX 13, in the tank battalions I served in as an artillery observer, drove in backwards to make an easy exit in case of need possible. The gun was positioned over the engine deck.
Dug in positions for weapon systems which tactics are mainly based on maouverability such as tanks and sp anti tank systems, are used in prepared defence lines. These positions are prepared by the engineers with the help of shovels (in the Dutch army types derivated from civil types like 'Werklust' ) and/or dozer tanks like the leopard engineering tank.
The size of these pits have to fit to the tank or sp gun it was intended for. The gun system is just above the normal earth level, but able to move. Furthermore, the position not seldomly is camouflaged at the enemy's side and for air recognition. Since quite some earth is moved, this is a hell of job!
Do not forget to make a slope side to enable the system to drive in, but also easily out. Dutch centurions and leopards, but also the AMX 13, in the tank battalions I served in as an artillery observer, drove in backwards to make an easy exit in case of need possible. The gun was positioned over the engine deck.
VLADPANZER
Lebanon
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Posted: Friday, December 31, 2010 - 04:31 AM UTC
Hi Matt,
In my opinion the Stridsvagn 103 has a rather low structure, if its dug in the gun would be very low. That’s just my opinion but if you want an idea of how a tank looks in such a position check this link (towards the bottom of the page) :
http://www.allworldwars.com/German%20Field%20Fortifications%20on%20the%20Eastern%20Front.html
but this was during WWII, don know if it’s still the same.
Hope this helps!
In my opinion the Stridsvagn 103 has a rather low structure, if its dug in the gun would be very low. That’s just my opinion but if you want an idea of how a tank looks in such a position check this link (towards the bottom of the page) :
http://www.allworldwars.com/German%20Field%20Fortifications%20on%20the%20Eastern%20Front.html
but this was during WWII, don know if it’s still the same.
Hope this helps!
matt7871
England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
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Posted: Friday, December 31, 2010 - 08:47 AM UTC
Thankyou all for the ideas and the advice everyone It will help no end
All i need to do now is too find out what materials will be needed to make the dio, i was thinking of using industrial insulation foam for the base as it would be easy to cut to shape Does anyone know of any other methods or this idea would be good?
Thankyou again
All i need to do now is too find out what materials will be needed to make the dio, i was thinking of using industrial insulation foam for the base as it would be easy to cut to shape Does anyone know of any other methods or this idea would be good?
Thankyou again
minimodelman1221
Alabama, United States
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Posted: Friday, December 31, 2010 - 09:15 AM UTC
foam sounds good or you could build the basic shape with crumpled newspaper then drape it with plaster cloth
matt7871
England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
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Posted: Friday, December 31, 2010 - 10:25 AM UTC
Good idea I had'nt thought of that one, I'll have to see what i can get hold of material wise
Uruk-Hai
Stockholm, Sweden
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Posted: Friday, December 31, 2010 - 10:13 PM UTC
Actually they dug themselves in as every third(I think) was fitted with a dozerblade.
Cheers
Cheers
matt7871
England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
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Posted: Saturday, January 01, 2011 - 07:42 AM UTC
Ah nice, i never knew that Cheers for the info
Frenchy
Rhone, France
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Posted: Saturday, January 01, 2011 - 10:16 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Actually they dug themselves in as every third(I think) was fitted with a dozerblade.
I believe they all had a dozer blade...
+ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fARGfVA7Mm8
HTH
Frenchy
Posted: Sunday, January 02, 2011 - 01:15 AM UTC
Hi Matt
Nice idea. It is an interesting project.
I believe Frenchy is right. They all had a dozer blade to dig themselves in.
Also decide if you want to show the S-tank in a fighting position or a camouflaged position? The reason why this is important is that the S-tank could not move the gun itself. The aiming was done by moving the tank from side to side and adjusting the suspension to lower/raise the gun. Very advanced system for its time.
I believe the picture Frenchy posted of a S-tank in hull down position is for camouflage and not a fighting position. Jugdeing from the picture there is very little room to turn the tank leaving the gun with a very limited field of fire. If producing a hull down position for fighting purposes I think you should allow more space along the sides to allow the tank a wider field of fire.
Just my two cents. Remember to share your work with us.
Nice idea. It is an interesting project.
I believe Frenchy is right. They all had a dozer blade to dig themselves in.
Also decide if you want to show the S-tank in a fighting position or a camouflaged position? The reason why this is important is that the S-tank could not move the gun itself. The aiming was done by moving the tank from side to side and adjusting the suspension to lower/raise the gun. Very advanced system for its time.
I believe the picture Frenchy posted of a S-tank in hull down position is for camouflage and not a fighting position. Jugdeing from the picture there is very little room to turn the tank leaving the gun with a very limited field of fire. If producing a hull down position for fighting purposes I think you should allow more space along the sides to allow the tank a wider field of fire.
Just my two cents. Remember to share your work with us.
matt7871
England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
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Posted: Sunday, January 02, 2011 - 02:13 AM UTC
Hi all, Thankyou again for all the advice and tips Im sure it will help no end.
Cheers Frenchy for the pictures, they will be a great help I had'nt been able to find a picture of an S-Tank in a true hull down postion. Also cheers SGTJKJ for the ideas, i will be sure to make a little room around the tank now
I'll be sure to post some pictures of my work once it is done Just got to order the Kit and get the materials now, then i can start making
Cheers Frenchy for the pictures, they will be a great help I had'nt been able to find a picture of an S-Tank in a true hull down postion. Also cheers SGTJKJ for the ideas, i will be sure to make a little room around the tank now
I'll be sure to post some pictures of my work once it is done Just got to order the Kit and get the materials now, then i can start making
matt7871
England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
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Posted: Tuesday, January 04, 2011 - 08:05 AM UTC
Hi all
Ive finally decided as to how the dio will look, im going to make it look something like this -
http://www.flickr.com/photos/57843368@N05/5324230021/
I know the image is of a M113 but it gives you an idea of what it will look like
Im going to make the low ridge out of somekind of filler
I'll post the images as soon as the dio is done
Ive finally decided as to how the dio will look, im going to make it look something like this -
http://www.flickr.com/photos/57843368@N05/5324230021/
I know the image is of a M113 but it gives you an idea of what it will look like
Im going to make the low ridge out of somekind of filler
I'll post the images as soon as the dio is done
vonHengest
Texas, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, January 04, 2011 - 08:28 AM UTC
That will work out perfectly as the hilly terrain is used to advantage by the Swedish just as the drawing of the M113 shows.
Also you really can't go wrong with your base material selection as long as you make sure to keep it light because the mass can easily add up quickly. Using any kind of foam that you can sculpt to shape is a great method, just don't set the model or any other weighty object on it
Also you really can't go wrong with your base material selection as long as you make sure to keep it light because the mass can easily add up quickly. Using any kind of foam that you can sculpt to shape is a great method, just don't set the model or any other weighty object on it
matt7871
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Posted: Tuesday, January 04, 2011 - 09:45 AM UTC
Thanks Jeremy, Fingers crossed it will all work out as I want it too
Ive now got the kit ordered and I've just got to wait for it too arrive now
Ive now got the kit ordered and I've just got to wait for it too arrive now
Posted: Friday, January 07, 2011 - 12:30 AM UTC
Nice way to do it, Matt. If you use foam, you should use the blue foam. It is much easier to cut than the white foam and it makes almost no mesh compared to the white foam.
Looking forward to follow your project.
Looking forward to follow your project.
matt7871
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Posted: Friday, January 07, 2011 - 09:19 AM UTC
Hi Jesper, Thankyou for the advice I think I have some blue foam somewhere And cheers, im looking forward to building it
matt7871
England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
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Posted: Sunday, January 09, 2011 - 02:17 AM UTC
Hi all
The kit has now arrived and have just got to start building it now
I was wondering though if anyone knows where to buy or how to make 1/72 spend shell casings? As I would like to put a few around the rear of the S-tank to make the gun look like it has been fired.
Any help would be greatly appreciated
The kit has now arrived and have just got to start building it now
I was wondering though if anyone knows where to buy or how to make 1/72 spend shell casings? As I would like to put a few around the rear of the S-tank to make the gun look like it has been fired.
Any help would be greatly appreciated
VLADPANZER
Lebanon
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Posted: Sunday, January 09, 2011 - 02:55 AM UTC
Hi Matt,
The method stated bellow is to make usable shells in 1/35th, 1/72 might be too small. I will leave it up to you.
If you own a dremel tool, you can place a thin brass rod (approximately 1/8”) on it. Coat it with epoxy putty and give it a rough shape (an outline). Wait for it to dry then turn the dremel tool on and put it on the slowest mode. Using a sanding file shape it up to its final look, using a hobby knife to add extra details. Smooth it out using steel wool. I guess to make them spent you could shape it into a cylinder and hollow it out using the dremel tool. For the spent ones just use half the wire for support.
In 1/72nd I guess you could just use a styrene cylinder cut to size and hollow the tip.
Hope this helps you on your project.
Regards
The method stated bellow is to make usable shells in 1/35th, 1/72 might be too small. I will leave it up to you.
If you own a dremel tool, you can place a thin brass rod (approximately 1/8”) on it. Coat it with epoxy putty and give it a rough shape (an outline). Wait for it to dry then turn the dremel tool on and put it on the slowest mode. Using a sanding file shape it up to its final look, using a hobby knife to add extra details. Smooth it out using steel wool. I guess to make them spent you could shape it into a cylinder and hollow it out using the dremel tool. For the spent ones just use half the wire for support.
In 1/72nd I guess you could just use a styrene cylinder cut to size and hollow the tip.
Hope this helps you on your project.
Regards
matt7871
England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
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Posted: Monday, January 10, 2011 - 06:00 AM UTC
Hi vladimir
Thankyou for the advice it will prove very useful, Fingers crossed it will work
I think i'll have to use a piece of styrene cylinder cut to length to make it.
Many thanks
Matt
Thankyou for the advice it will prove very useful, Fingers crossed it will work
I think i'll have to use a piece of styrene cylinder cut to length to make it.
Many thanks
Matt
matt7871
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Posted: Tuesday, January 25, 2011 - 09:14 AM UTC
Hi all
Thought I'd let you all know that ive now finished the Diorama, Here are the pictures of my work
Enjoy
http://www.flickr.com/photos/57843368@N05/5388561110/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/57843368@N05/5388561106/in/photostream/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/57843368@N05/5388561098/in/photostream/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/57843368@N05/5388561084/in/photostream/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/57843368@N05/5388561076/in/photostream/
Cheers
Matt
Thought I'd let you all know that ive now finished the Diorama, Here are the pictures of my work
Enjoy
http://www.flickr.com/photos/57843368@N05/5388561110/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/57843368@N05/5388561106/in/photostream/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/57843368@N05/5388561098/in/photostream/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/57843368@N05/5388561084/in/photostream/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/57843368@N05/5388561076/in/photostream/
Cheers
Matt