AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Matthew Toms
hi tank building steps ????
dontknowhowyet
Ohio, United States
Joined: December 24, 2010
KitMaker: 28 posts
Armorama: 26 posts
Joined: December 24, 2010
KitMaker: 28 posts
Armorama: 26 posts
Posted: Sunday, January 02, 2011 - 02:36 AM UTC
hi all i have only done aurora type figure stuff up till now . but stating my first armor build and looking at the instructions i am a bit intimidated . can anyone give me the step by step process of building armor ? by that i mean how and what do you build and when does it get painted and at what stage the instructions for the italrei tiger p elefant that i am into have left me a bit confused LOL THANKS rob
rebelsoldier
Arizona, United States
Joined: June 30, 2004
KitMaker: 1,336 posts
Armorama: 757 posts
Joined: June 30, 2004
KitMaker: 1,336 posts
Armorama: 757 posts
Posted: Sunday, January 02, 2011 - 04:39 AM UTC
i usually start out with a warm soapy water wash of the sprues and separate parts, go over instructions while its drying. i o all bulk primer painting first, and the little as i go. and i do work on diff sections as another is drying or bonding.
reb
reb
dontknowhowyet
Ohio, United States
Joined: December 24, 2010
KitMaker: 28 posts
Armorama: 26 posts
Joined: December 24, 2010
KitMaker: 28 posts
Armorama: 26 posts
Posted: Sunday, January 02, 2011 - 05:05 AM UTC
THANK YOU do you prime while parts are still on the trees or do you primer as you asemble ? THANKS
posty1978
Karnataka, India / भारत
Joined: April 15, 2010
KitMaker: 186 posts
Armorama: 161 posts
Joined: April 15, 2010
KitMaker: 186 posts
Armorama: 161 posts
Posted: Sunday, January 02, 2011 - 05:19 AM UTC
You may like to take a look at Shep Paine's books on Armor building...pretty detailed explanations are given
collin26
Connecticut, United States
Joined: March 24, 2007
KitMaker: 317 posts
Armorama: 259 posts
Joined: March 24, 2007
KitMaker: 317 posts
Armorama: 259 posts
Posted: Sunday, January 02, 2011 - 08:16 AM UTC
Friend,
I would not prime on the sprues. You will most likely have some sanding to do and you will end sanding primer and re-priming anyhow. Some of your pieces are best painted seperately, like road wheels. tools, turret, etc.
I would not prime on the sprues. You will most likely have some sanding to do and you will end sanding primer and re-priming anyhow. Some of your pieces are best painted seperately, like road wheels. tools, turret, etc.
Posted: Sunday, January 02, 2011 - 09:41 AM UTC
Rob you do not want to paint parts before you attach them and the reason for this is that the glue (normally used) melts the two edges where they join, and they are then fused together and this results in a strong joint.
To begin it is good practice to wash all of the model parts in warm (NOT hot) soapy water (washing detergent for use in a washing machine I have found the best and cheapest option), this will remove all grease from the model which may be present from a mould release agent and if like me grubby fingers,
You should then assemble as much of the model as possible in order that it is stuck together firmly as mentioned earlier. When this is done do any gap filling that needs attention and spray on a matt undercoat (if able it is a good idea to take some digital pictures and look at them as you will be amazed what shows up as having been missed). By this stage you should have a nearly complete model which is undercoated, the wheels assembled but not attached, any tools that belong on the vehicle, and if individual track links are being used the next step is to assemble them.
When assembling individual plastic tracks that are NOT workable I will put the wheels on the model (but not glued) and then assemble and hang the tracks. When they are cured I would remove the tracks and wheels and paint the tracks after they have been given a wash in detergent.
I would also paint any stores and on vehicle tools before they are applied to the vehicle. By now you have the undercoated vehicle, painted tracks, painted wheels, and painted tools. You now want to apply the surface paint on the lower hull of the vehicle where the wheels will be attached. When happy secure the wheels and track to the vehicle and protect them from being sprayed when you apply the surface coat of paint to the rest of the vehicle body.
After spraying the vehicle and its camouflage attach your tools and stores to the vehicle. You are now ready to apply a clear gloss coat to your vehicle which when dry you lay your decals onto (use a gloss surface to help prevent silvering showing in the decal film), you will then cover the model with a matt coat which seals everything including the decals.
You are now ready to begin any weathering you wish to do to your model, unless I have missed something and if I have someone will flag it up very quickly I suspect.
To begin it is good practice to wash all of the model parts in warm (NOT hot) soapy water (washing detergent for use in a washing machine I have found the best and cheapest option), this will remove all grease from the model which may be present from a mould release agent and if like me grubby fingers,
You should then assemble as much of the model as possible in order that it is stuck together firmly as mentioned earlier. When this is done do any gap filling that needs attention and spray on a matt undercoat (if able it is a good idea to take some digital pictures and look at them as you will be amazed what shows up as having been missed). By this stage you should have a nearly complete model which is undercoated, the wheels assembled but not attached, any tools that belong on the vehicle, and if individual track links are being used the next step is to assemble them.
When assembling individual plastic tracks that are NOT workable I will put the wheels on the model (but not glued) and then assemble and hang the tracks. When they are cured I would remove the tracks and wheels and paint the tracks after they have been given a wash in detergent.
I would also paint any stores and on vehicle tools before they are applied to the vehicle. By now you have the undercoated vehicle, painted tracks, painted wheels, and painted tools. You now want to apply the surface paint on the lower hull of the vehicle where the wheels will be attached. When happy secure the wheels and track to the vehicle and protect them from being sprayed when you apply the surface coat of paint to the rest of the vehicle body.
After spraying the vehicle and its camouflage attach your tools and stores to the vehicle. You are now ready to apply a clear gloss coat to your vehicle which when dry you lay your decals onto (use a gloss surface to help prevent silvering showing in the decal film), you will then cover the model with a matt coat which seals everything including the decals.
You are now ready to begin any weathering you wish to do to your model, unless I have missed something and if I have someone will flag it up very quickly I suspect.
dontknowhowyet
Ohio, United States
Joined: December 24, 2010
KitMaker: 28 posts
Armorama: 26 posts
Joined: December 24, 2010
KitMaker: 28 posts
Armorama: 26 posts
Posted: Monday, January 03, 2011 - 01:09 AM UTC
THANK YOU for the info all . GREAT step by step darren just what i was looking for really a big help THANKS again