Hi

I'm relatively new to this hobby (I started around 2-3 years ago) so I would like to know if i can use superglue to glue to flue metal and photoetch parts to plastic?

I would assume you're working with resin & photoetch kits now...?

You can also use epoxy for large areas or white glue for real small parts.
But super glue IMHO is the only way to go for All "non plastic to plastic" adhering. Most important is that you sandpaper with 500 grit or so (particularly) the metal part, as well as the plastic part.
Then, wipe clean with a paper towel, if it's greasy then wipe with alcohol or enamel thinner for the metal part.
For the plastic part scrub with an old toothbrush and wash with warm water + mild non scented detergent.

For real small or difficult parts, such as grab handles or ship railings, scribe a line, poke a hole and / or use some Tamiya liquid cement (green cap) on the plastic part, this will melt it a bit and helps to temporary fix the metal part. Leave it for a day and secure with super glue for the permanent strong bond.

Remember, less is best when using superglue for the actual adhering between parts. But you can reinforce the joint later with a bit more glue to seal the edges.

Another option would be Gator Glue.

Just pick whichever you are comfortable with and you should do just fine.

Yes. The super glues sold in hobby shops, particularly the super thin type, tend to be the strongest. When super glue (cyanoacrylate) adhesives first hit the market in the 1970's, there were epidemics of unwary customers gluing their fingers together or to random objects, and the bonds were strong enough to tear skin. The glue manufacturers responded by adding starch molecules to the glue, which thickens it, slows curing time, and makes the bond weaker. It's easier on clumsy consumers, but we need a strong bond on tiny parts, so go with the best brand you can afford. I prefer Zap products.

Thanks for all the options! But will any superglue sort of "attack" the plastic? Not that I don't appreciate you commenting, because I do!

No, CA glue will not attack the plastic in any way. Do use it sparingly though. It only takes a small amount to securely glue something. Too much will be hard to remove and can destroy detail.

Another way to attach really small parts (PE or otherwise) to resin or styrene surfaces is Future (Klear in the UK). When it dries, it will hold the part well enough to withstand a small amount of handling, but not much. I used it to hold several hundred scale .005" washers to a master. If you rubbed your hand over the surface, some would come off, but most would stay put. After another even coat of Future to seal the edges of the parts it was possible to make a RTV mould using what I made and none of the little washers pulled off when the mould was removed from the master, so it is reasonably durable.

The beauty of the Future is that it can be applied with a small paint brush, it allows a small amount of time for repositioning, the parts can be removed by simply picking them off with a fingernail and there's very little residue which can also be cleaned off with a fingernail or some isopropyl. When it dries, any excess around the small part really becomes almost invisible. The sealing coat makes it completely invisble.

It can't be used for parts of any real size or those that are brushed against or handled frequently, but for very small parts, it's beauty.


Paul

Thanks for the advice, everyone! I was thinking of using superglue instead of Tamiya's instant CA glue but the nozzle kept clogging up ! Thanks!

Personally, I prefer the Loctite brand of CA over the others.

Biggest reason, I get to actually use a whole container of it before it goes hard. I don't know if it is something in the bottle design or what, but when using the ZAP products, I usually have to throw out at least half the bottle because it hardens before I get a chance to use it all.

Loctite comes in a thin (like water) formula as well as a thick (gel) formula.

Then again, maybe my problem is that I just don't build enough!

Actually is humidity that dryes the CA glue.
To prevent nozzle clogging never touch it with bare fingers, use gloves.
After use you should clean the nozzle with lacquer thinner.
To avoid the CA hardening you should store it....in the fridge.
I have some Ca tubes in my fridge. I bought them about one year ago...Glue is still fluid!

cheers

Thanks! I will try putting the tubes of instant CA glue in the fridge (if my mum lets me!). But I will have to get a new one. Mine is seriously clogged.