Hello All!
Currently working (among others) on an M51 Super Sherman.
My question is... how do I apply Mr. Surfacer in order to recreate cast iron texture for turret and hull?
This is the first time I will be using this product, since all I hear is good things about it, and what better way to try it out with a Super Sherman?
Thanks all!
Jorge
AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Matthew Toms
Mr. Surfacer application
CJ3B
Puerto Rico
Joined: April 11, 2006
KitMaker: 245 posts
Armorama: 235 posts
Joined: April 11, 2006
KitMaker: 245 posts
Armorama: 235 posts
Posted: Thursday, January 20, 2011 - 08:21 AM UTC
GeraldOwens
Florida, United States
Joined: March 30, 2006
KitMaker: 3,736 posts
Armorama: 3,697 posts
Joined: March 30, 2006
KitMaker: 3,736 posts
Armorama: 3,697 posts
Posted: Thursday, January 20, 2011 - 03:54 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Hello All!
Currently working (among others) on an M51 Super Sherman.
My question is... how do I apply Mr. Surfacer in order to recreate cast iron texture for turret and hull?
This is the first time I will be using this product, since all I hear is good things about it, and what better way to try it out with a Super Sherman?
Thanks all!
Jorge
Apply it with a cheap Testors nylon brush, and stipple it (stab gently with the tips of the bristles) while it is still wet to create he texture. It dries very quickly, so work on small areas at a time. I suggest you practice on scrap styrene or a junked model first, and paint your practice piece, to get an idea what the finished effect will be.
The result will be a very rough surface. If you wish to reduce the effect (US castings are less coarse than some Russian wartime castings, for instance), gently sand the surface afterward with fine sandpaper, and you will get random flat areas and pockmarks. Remember, only apply this kind of texture texture to areas that were cast steel. Rolled steel plate is much smoother.
Spiderfrommars
Milano, Italy
Joined: July 13, 2010
KitMaker: 3,845 posts
Armorama: 3,543 posts
Joined: July 13, 2010
KitMaker: 3,845 posts
Armorama: 3,543 posts
Posted: Thursday, January 20, 2011 - 09:02 PM UTC
CJ3B
Puerto Rico
Joined: April 11, 2006
KitMaker: 245 posts
Armorama: 235 posts
Joined: April 11, 2006
KitMaker: 245 posts
Armorama: 235 posts
Posted: Thursday, January 20, 2011 - 09:31 PM UTC
Thank you, Gents!!!
Big-John
Ohio, United States
Joined: August 12, 2010
KitMaker: 731 posts
Armorama: 711 posts
Joined: August 12, 2010
KitMaker: 731 posts
Armorama: 711 posts
Posted: Sunday, January 23, 2011 - 12:22 PM UTC
For and alternative method, check out the technique I used on my M4A1
http://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/163768&page=1
http://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/163768&page=1
Spiderfrommars
Milano, Italy
Joined: July 13, 2010
KitMaker: 3,845 posts
Armorama: 3,543 posts
Joined: July 13, 2010
KitMaker: 3,845 posts
Armorama: 3,543 posts
Posted: Sunday, January 23, 2011 - 05:19 PM UTC
Quoted Text
For and alternative method, check out the technique I used on my M4A1
http://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/163768&page=1
I experimented the liquid glue method on a scratchbuilt SF model. In my opinion is a slightly risky method especially if you have many details on the surfaces.
However you reached great results indeed