AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Matthew Toms
Airbrushing with Tamiya paint
long_tom
Joined: March 18, 2006
KitMaker: 2,362 posts
Armorama: 2,005 posts
Posted: Wednesday, January 26, 2011 - 06:21 AM UTC
So far I've only used my airbrush with Model Master Acryl paint, which I found I don't have to thin. But Tamiya paint is thicker and I haven't tried to use it yet. What have people with experience in this done? Thanks.
Tojo72
Joined: June 06, 2006
KitMaker: 4,691 posts
Armorama: 3,509 posts
Posted: Wednesday, January 26, 2011 - 11:08 AM UTC
Tamiya paints airbrush well for the most part.I usually use Tamiya Thinner for thinning and regular alcohol or water for cleaning up.Thin to the consistency of skim milk.91% isopropyl alcohol also thins ok too,just need to be careful of it drying too fast and clogging tip.thats why I like the thinner.
Phil_H
Joined: November 10, 2005
KitMaker: 546 posts
Armorama: 442 posts
Posted: Wednesday, January 26, 2011 - 11:15 AM UTC
Tamiya acrylics airbrush very nicely, though not straight out of the bottle. Thin with Tamiya's X-20A thinner, Isopropyl alcohol or denatured alcohol. Do not thin with water or Windex. In hot/dry conditions, it may be advantageous to add a little acrylic retarder if thinning with one of the alcohol options.
The paint has a very dense pigment load and can be thinned more than most people think (exceptions being white, yellow and red - both gloss and flat). I thin with denatured alcohol, often up to and beyond 75% thinner to 25% paint.
The paint has a very dense pigment load and can be thinned more than most people think (exceptions being white, yellow and red - both gloss and flat). I thin with denatured alcohol, often up to and beyond 75% thinner to 25% paint.
AussieReg
Associate Editor
#007
Joined: June 09, 2009
KitMaker: 8,156 posts
Armorama: 194 posts
Posted: Wednesday, January 26, 2011 - 11:38 AM UTC
I use Tamiya Acrylics for 90% of my airbrushing and I have tried a few different products to thin it. By far the best results came from using the Tamiya Acrylic Thinner, and as Phil said thinning ratios of at least 50% Thinner work really well. I use a Paasche H single action airbrush and usually work at 10-15psi for the cup, a bit higher for the bottle.
Cheers, D
Cheers, D
panzerbob01
Joined: March 06, 2010
KitMaker: 3,128 posts
Armorama: 2,959 posts
Posted: Wednesday, January 26, 2011 - 12:41 PM UTC
I use mostly Tamiya acrylics: thinned down as much as 3:1 91% isopropyl alcohol:paint. Sometimes mix in some distilled water with the alcohol- slows down drying a little, which can be a factor when it's hot in the spray booth.
Thinner paint also goes on better with less pressure, in my experience. I use the same mixtures in my Iwata and Badger Patriot double action brushes and in my elderly bottom-feeding Paasche.
I clean with isopropyl followed by distilled H2O after each session.
Bob
Thinner paint also goes on better with less pressure, in my experience. I use the same mixtures in my Iwata and Badger Patriot double action brushes and in my elderly bottom-feeding Paasche.
I clean with isopropyl followed by distilled H2O after each session.
Bob
B33rw0lf
Joined: May 20, 2009
KitMaker: 50 posts
Armorama: 29 posts
Posted: Wednesday, January 26, 2011 - 04:48 PM UTC
Phil what acrylic retarder do you use with Tamiya paints?
Spiderfrommars
Joined: July 13, 2010
KitMaker: 3,845 posts
Armorama: 3,543 posts
Posted: Wednesday, January 26, 2011 - 06:38 PM UTC
Hi Tom
Here Tamiya thinner compatibility:
http://www.little-cars.co.uk/workbench49.pdf
Regarding the paint retarder, I haven't used yet but Tamiya sale this:
cheers
Here Tamiya thinner compatibility:
http://www.little-cars.co.uk/workbench49.pdf
Regarding the paint retarder, I haven't used yet but Tamiya sale this:
cheers
Phil_H
Joined: November 10, 2005
KitMaker: 546 posts
Armorama: 442 posts
Posted: Wednesday, January 26, 2011 - 06:51 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Phil what acrylic retarder do you use with Tamiya paints?
Hi Len,
I have to say, I don't often use a retarder with mine, though the one I have is Jo Sonja's acrylic retarder (this seems to be the most commonly available one in Australia). I usually paint at a high thinning ratio (most often using methylated spirits as a thinner), at low pressure and close to the subject, so it really reduces the need for a retarder.
On another note:
I am sure that someone will be along shortly to extol the virtues of using lacquer thinner with Tamiya acrylics. While it does work as a thinner, I find that any benefits it affords are determined by the way you paint.
Lacquer thinner (in particular, Tamiya's own lacquer thinner and Gunze's Mr Color thinner) seems to super-extend the drying time. This is particularly advantageous when working with Tamiya's gloss acrylics or when applying a perfectly smooth finish over a large area (typically from a greater distance, using higher air pressure).
It may make a greater difference to people who are accustomed to airbrushing with enamels - trying to airbrush acrylics the same way as enamels (ie in terms of distance to subject and air pressure) using the proprietary acrylic thinner may provide less than desirable results.
However, if you thin sufficiently (I think most problems people have with Tamiya acrylics is the result of under-thinning), drop the pressure and get up close and personal, Tamiya's X-20A thinner or one of the alcohols will do the job perfectly well.
I'll also add that Tamiya's metallic colours can be a little difficult to airbrush smoothly and cleanly due to the large size of the metallic particles in the paint. They seem to settle out very quickly in thinned paint and can clog your airbrush, particularly if using a gravity feed brush.
Silantra
Joined: March 04, 2004
KitMaker: 2,511 posts
Armorama: 913 posts
Posted: Wednesday, January 26, 2011 - 08:07 PM UTC
hi,
i mostly paint my models with tamiya acrylics. Thinning ration would be somewhere from 70-80% (thinner/paint ratio) . I live in the hot humid weather and so far i got no problem airbrushing it. Preffered thinner would be Tamiya Thinner and it also work best with GSI Mr thinner. SO i i like the smooth finish on the surface if i iused mr thinner.
i mostly paint my models with tamiya acrylics. Thinning ration would be somewhere from 70-80% (thinner/paint ratio) . I live in the hot humid weather and so far i got no problem airbrushing it. Preffered thinner would be Tamiya Thinner and it also work best with GSI Mr thinner. SO i i like the smooth finish on the surface if i iused mr thinner.
SSGToms
Joined: April 02, 2005
KitMaker: 3,608 posts
Armorama: 3,092 posts
Posted: Thursday, January 27, 2011 - 07:55 AM UTC
You can always use Tamiya's X-20A acrylic thinner. If you decide to use their lacquer thinner, then you need extremely good ventilation and a mask.
With Tamiya acrylics, I use 99¢ a gallon blue windshield washer fluid. I know it sounds strange, but it works perfectly. It contains iso and glycol alcohols so it thins the paint but doesn't dry too fast; and detergent that acts as a wetting agent and breaks the surface tension, giving a beautiful smooth finish. The blue tint doesn't show up, even in white or yellow paint. And it's 99¢ a gallon. I think Tamiya thinner works out to $214 a gallon even in the biggest bottles.
I thin Tamiya 50/50 with windshield washer. If the paint is clogging the airbrush or I can't keep a wet edge on the model, I use Liquitex Slo-Dri and/or Liquitex Flo-Aid. Both are available at any art & craft store and are only a couple of bucks for a large bottle.
With Tamiya acrylics, I use 99¢ a gallon blue windshield washer fluid. I know it sounds strange, but it works perfectly. It contains iso and glycol alcohols so it thins the paint but doesn't dry too fast; and detergent that acts as a wetting agent and breaks the surface tension, giving a beautiful smooth finish. The blue tint doesn't show up, even in white or yellow paint. And it's 99¢ a gallon. I think Tamiya thinner works out to $214 a gallon even in the biggest bottles.
I thin Tamiya 50/50 with windshield washer. If the paint is clogging the airbrush or I can't keep a wet edge on the model, I use Liquitex Slo-Dri and/or Liquitex Flo-Aid. Both are available at any art & craft store and are only a couple of bucks for a large bottle.
collin26
Joined: March 24, 2007
KitMaker: 317 posts
Armorama: 259 posts
Posted: Thursday, January 27, 2011 - 07:58 AM UTC
Tom,
The best way to thin Tamiya paint is with Mr. Hobby 250 thinner. If this is not available to you, I would suggest using Tamiyas thinner with the YELLOW cap. Although Tamiyas paints are listed as an acrylic, they are actually a synthetic.
As for the ratio, you want you paint to be about the consistancy of skim milk. You can test the consistancy of your paint on the inside of the cup. Usa a paint brush to pull your mixture up the inside of the cup and watch for the consistancy as it falls back down the inside wall of the cup. Also, have a scrap piece of paper handy to test your paint mixture on. As you spray, you will be able to see if you need to add thinner or paint to tweek the mixture.
Sorry this is a bit long. I hope this is helpfull.
The best way to thin Tamiya paint is with Mr. Hobby 250 thinner. If this is not available to you, I would suggest using Tamiyas thinner with the YELLOW cap. Although Tamiyas paints are listed as an acrylic, they are actually a synthetic.
As for the ratio, you want you paint to be about the consistancy of skim milk. You can test the consistancy of your paint on the inside of the cup. Usa a paint brush to pull your mixture up the inside of the cup and watch for the consistancy as it falls back down the inside wall of the cup. Also, have a scrap piece of paper handy to test your paint mixture on. As you spray, you will be able to see if you need to add thinner or paint to tweek the mixture.
Sorry this is a bit long. I hope this is helpfull.
Paul-H
Joined: April 02, 2010
KitMaker: 234 posts
Armorama: 207 posts
Posted: Thursday, January 27, 2011 - 09:39 PM UTC
Tamiya Paints are Arylic the same as most of the popular Acrylic Model paints, the only difference is the type of carrier they are mixed with at the factory.
Humbrol, Revell, Andrea, Vallejo Acrylics are factory mixed with water and are close to what most people think of as Acrylics
Tamiya are factory mixed with aclcohol
Mr Color are factory mixed with lacquer (Cellulose) in the UK
They are all Acrylic at the molecular level but because Tamiya and Mr Color are not mixed with water they are often confused with other types of non acrylic paint.
Tamiya unlike mr color can be thinned with water as alcohol mixes with water.
Paul
Humbrol, Revell, Andrea, Vallejo Acrylics are factory mixed with water and are close to what most people think of as Acrylics
Tamiya are factory mixed with aclcohol
Mr Color are factory mixed with lacquer (Cellulose) in the UK
They are all Acrylic at the molecular level but because Tamiya and Mr Color are not mixed with water they are often confused with other types of non acrylic paint.
Tamiya unlike mr color can be thinned with water as alcohol mixes with water.
Paul
Spiderfrommars
Joined: July 13, 2010
KitMaker: 3,845 posts
Armorama: 3,543 posts
Posted: Friday, January 28, 2011 - 02:35 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Tamiya Paints are Arylic the same as most of the popular Acrylic Model paints, the only difference is the type of carrier they are mixed with at the factory.
Humbrol, Revell, Andrea, Vallejo Acrylics are factory mixed with water and are close to what most people think of as Acrylics
Tamiya are factory mixed with aclcohol
Mr Color are factory mixed with lacquer (Cellulose) in the UK
They are all Acrylic at the molecular level but because Tamiya and Mr Color are not mixed with water they are often confused with other types of non acrylic paint.
Tamiya unlike mr color can be thinned with water as alcohol mixes with water.
Paul
I agree, that's it
Phil_H
Joined: November 10, 2005
KitMaker: 546 posts
Armorama: 442 posts
Posted: Friday, January 28, 2011 - 03:26 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Tamiya Paints are Arylic the same as most of the popular Acrylic Model paints, the only difference is the type of carrier they are mixed with at the factory.
Humbrol, Revell, Andrea, Vallejo Acrylics are factory mixed with water and are close to what most people think of as Acrylics
Tamiya are factory mixed with aclcohol
Mr Color are factory mixed with lacquer (Cellulose) in the UK
They are all Acrylic at the molecular level but because Tamiya and Mr Color are not mixed with water they are often confused with other types of non acrylic paint.
Tamiya unlike mr color can be thinned with water as alcohol mixes with water.
Paul
I think that there is a tendency for people to equate "acrylic" with "water" when, as explained above, "acrylic" actually refers to a polymer of a particular molecular structure.
To reiterate, when the term is applied to paints, it is irrelevant what the reducer is, whether it be water, alcohol or otherwise, the type of reducer used does not alter the basic chemistry of the binders in the paint, which forms acrylic polymers during the curing process.
I've also seen inferences that certain paints aren't "true" acrylics because they also contain vinyl or latex additives to alter the behaviour of the paint. Again, the addition of co-polymers doesn't alter the basic chemistry of the primary binders (which are acrylic compounds) in the paint.
However, we are digressing from the original question, ....
Spiderfrommars
Joined: July 13, 2010
KitMaker: 3,845 posts
Armorama: 3,543 posts
Posted: Friday, January 28, 2011 - 05:06 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I think that there is a tendency for people to equate "acrylic" with "water" when, as explained above, "acrylic" actually refers to a polymer of a particular molecular structure.
To reiterate, when the term is applied to paints, it is irrelevant what the reducer is, whether it be water, alcohol or otherwise, the type of reducer used does not alter the basic chemistry of the binders in the paint, which forms acrylic polymers during the curing process.
I've also seen inferences that certain paints aren't "true" acrylics because they also contain vinyl or latex additives to alter the behaviour of the paint. Again, the addition of co-polymers doesn't alter the basic chemistry of the primary binders (which are acrylic compounds) in the paint.
...In other modeller forums, I saw people FIGHTING BITTERLY about this matter
...Paul-H
Joined: April 02, 2010
KitMaker: 234 posts
Armorama: 207 posts
Posted: Friday, January 28, 2011 - 10:26 AM UTC
Back to the OP I thin my Tamiya with IPA both 70% and 99% about 50/50 and get excellent results.
What I do is open a new bottle and give it a good mix with my Badger paint wizzer, I then fill the bottle to within a mm or two of the top, put the lid on and give it a good shake, that mix works for me.
Paul
What I do is open a new bottle and give it a good mix with my Badger paint wizzer, I then fill the bottle to within a mm or two of the top, put the lid on and give it a good shake, that mix works for me.
Paul
Astartes29
Joined: November 17, 2015
KitMaker: 1 posts
Armorama: 1 posts
Posted: Tuesday, November 17, 2015 - 02:21 AM UTC
Quoted Text
You can always use Tamiya's X-20A acrylic thinner. If you decide to use their lacquer thinner, then you need extremely good ventilation and a mask.
With Tamiya acrylics, I use 99¢ a gallon blue windshield washer fluid. I know it sounds strange, but it works perfectly. It contains iso and glycol alcohols so it thins the paint but doesn't dry too fast; and detergent that acts as a wetting agent and breaks the surface tension, giving a beautiful smooth finish. The blue tint doesn't show up, even in white or yellow paint. And it's 99¢ a gallon. I think Tamiya thinner works out to $214 a gallon even in the biggest bottles.
I thin Tamiya 50/50 with windshield washer. If the paint is clogging the airbrush or I can't keep a wet edge on the model, I use Liquitex Slo-Dri and/or Liquitex Flo-Aid. Both are available at any art & craft store and are only a couple of bucks for a large bottle.
Hi mate,
Realise it's been a while since you posted this and I just recently joined, but would you use the windshield wash option and just the acrylic, rather than using a thinner as well? Would this still be viable when using the Tamiya Clear range (if you've had experience using those paints)?
Cheers,
A
BBD468
Joined: March 08, 2010
KitMaker: 2,465 posts
Armorama: 2,383 posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 08, 2015 - 09:38 AM UTC
I must say, im a die hard Tamiya fan and i use Lacquer thinner and Mr.Color Leveling thinner and i get amazing results with both. I recommend a respirator while painting, but the results will speak for themselves.
Good luck mate.
Gary
Good luck mate.
Gary
SSGToms
Joined: April 02, 2005
KitMaker: 3,608 posts
Armorama: 3,092 posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 08, 2015 - 08:09 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextYou can always use Tamiya's X-20A acrylic thinner. If you decide to use their lacquer thinner, then you need extremely good ventilation and a mask.
With Tamiya acrylics, I use 99¢ a gallon blue windshield washer fluid. I know it sounds strange, but it works perfectly. It contains iso and glycol alcohols so it thins the paint but doesn't dry too fast; and detergent that acts as a wetting agent and breaks the surface tension, giving a beautiful smooth finish. The blue tint doesn't show up, even in white or yellow paint. And it's 99¢ a gallon. I think Tamiya thinner works out to $214 a gallon even in the biggest bottles.
I thin Tamiya 50/50 with windshield washer. If the paint is clogging the airbrush or I can't keep a wet edge on the model, I use Liquitex Slo-Dri and/or Liquitex Flo-Aid. Both are available at any art & craft store and are only a couple of bucks for a large bottle.
Hi mate,
Realise it's been a while since you posted this and I just recently joined, but would you use the windshield wash option and just the acrylic, rather than using a thinner as well? Would this still be viable when using the Tamiya Clear range (if you've had experience using those paints)?
Cheers,
A
Seb,
Use only the paint and the windshield wash. You don't need other thinners. I have not used this with Tamiya clear products, as I use Future floor shine straight from the bottle for all my clear applications.
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