Hello everyone this is a build that I am currently making for the self mobile AA campaign.

Mac distribution have released some very interesting models and I have bought quite a few.
This is my second Mac build. Although the kit is made of quite a few pieces (more or less 40?) it's not an easy job to assembly it. Some pieces come warped and the instruction sheet is kinda vague so I spent some time trying to find how to assemble the chassis. I remember having the same problems with the first kit I made.
There is also a PE aftermarket set for this one made by NH detail.Just the basic really.
Anyway after 2 and a half afternoons here my progress:







More pics soon, thanks for watching this.

P.A.

Hi Alexander,

I too like the Mac kits, I've made the standard Horch and the Steyr. Unfortunately the Steyr is not the best kit I've ever made and it is a good job Tracks and Troops have done a superb set of resin wheels to make up for the really bad ones in the kit. Your build is coming along nicely and I was wondering if you had seen this website, I keep going back to it and consequently have decided to build more softskins. I hope it is of use to you.

All the best,

Paul

http://www.german.o5m6.de/

excellent start Alexander, i am looking forward to future updates on your build

Alexander,

Interesting subject. That brand of photo-etch is new to me. It sure adds a great deal of detail to that small weapon and the Horch.

-Eddy

Thanks for taking the time to comment guys. I have finished detailing the Flak and I'll start with the car now.

If anyone knows this, I need some reference pictures of how the Flak's base is ''strapped'' on the car chassis. The kit instructions simply show that you place it on with out anykind of secure.

The progress :






P.A.

Nice model. I'm surprise with it. Antiaircraft Horchs always are beautiful models.

Regards. Pedro

Really interesting subject, Alexander. How did you make those extra rivets on the gun?

Regards,
AJ

Yes, please do answer. Looks terrific!

-Eddy

Hello guys,

For making the extra bolts I use a set of grainers (tools used by Clockmakers and jewlers) and an aluminum foil I bought for 2 Euros. The pics pretty much talk by themselves.









The trick is to use a cutting mat underneath the alum foil and not to tap the hammer too strong or the bolt will travel deep in the mat and gone for ever.

It's quite fast economic and pretty good. I pick up the bolts with a pointed tipped brush and place them on the model with gloss acrylic varnish. This way they stay put until I prime and paint the model.



Progress on the Horch



More soon

P.A.

This is a good method. A friend, use old borers to make the rivets.

Regards.

Pedro.

Just completed the basic painting. For the first time I applied color modulation principles.

I have made a post in the Painting section as to what kind of wash should I apply. If anyone wishes to contribute is welcome.





P.A.

Hello guys just an update on my build.

The weathering up to now :

- Pin wash with MIG dark wash on shadow areas (shadows)
- Pin wash but a little wider with Vallejo sepia 73200 acrylic wash on the same spots (blending)
- Overall wash, worked like a filter actually, with very dilluted 73200 sepia (tones down contrast, makes the model ''warmer'')
- Light grey chips
- Dark brown chips

Next is oil filtering.



Stay tuned, P.A.

Nice weathering Alexander. Some time ago, I made a rare version about the Kfz 70. If you are interested, I can to look for the only picture that I found.

Regards. Pedro.

While I am painting some details, I started to think the base.

This is what I have in mind right now.



The guy on the street is actually pointing to the sky.

@ Pedro : Yes please, look for it and post it.

P.A.

The Horsch is looking really good as is the diorama. I would also look at using the Figures from Zvezda's little kit once it is released shorly.
Charlie

Hi Charlie, thanks for your comment.

Can you provide more info about the kit you mention?

P.A.

Here is the picture.


Regards.

Here is a link to the kit. It is geared more towards wargamers only having 13 parts including the gunner and loader. The figures look as if they can be used with other small flak systems.

http://www.dragonusaonline.com/item_detail.aspx?ItemCode=ZVE6117
Charlie

Checked it nice kit, but the gunner set up for the flak 30 is totally different of that in the flak 38.

It's definately a nice choise for the 38 though.

P.A.

I wasn't sure about that. The gunner looks like he will work with Dragons Sd Kfz 222 Leichte Panzer Spahwagen
Charlie

I hope everyone is doing ok.

My base is getting ready to be painted but I need some help. The building section is from miniart.
Check the following pic.


I am looking for an efficient way to glue the rubble in place. I used dilluted white glue but the bond is not strong enough and it wont survive the weathering process.
I thought of repeating the process with a heavier mix of white glue but maybe there is another solution someone can propose, What about spray glues or something like that?

Thank in advance, P.A.

Alexander, I would recommend a using white glue but, don't dilute it too much.
Charlie

Alexander,

Several members in our club absolutely "swear" about using Future Acrylic (or its local equivalent) as a bonding agent. If you mix it with Tamyia X-21 Flat Base at a ratio of 5 parts Future to 1 part flat base you will get a fairly flat finish. Another option is Woodland Scenics "Secnic Glue" S190. You can dilute it with water and it dries clear and matte. For the latter you can use an airbrush but many people prefer a pump spray bottle.

Cheers,
Jan

Thanks for the tip guys. Unfortunately Future is not sold in Greece, the closest product is a floor acrylic polish named ''Long Shine'' from Johnson.
I have tried it as a gloss varnish and it worked pretty good.

Fortunately after thickening the white glue mix 2 times, I managed to glue everything in place.

Of course it's best to find cheap ways than to resolve inpaying for that special item.

Anyway here is my progress.



This is the first time I model rubble and I am quite happy with the result. I think it would be best if I applied the rubble after painting the road though. Many small debris had to be painted or was lost during that.
Feeling sleepy more tomorrow
P.A.

Alexander,

Your build and dio are coming along very nicely. Listen here is a link about using Future for our modeling uses and it includes all of the different brand names that are associated with this product.

-Eddy