Hi all,

I would like to know which is the best way to simulate roughed up surface on casted armors, I don't own a motor tool for the time being, is there any other alternatives?

So far I know, for German armor in WW II, the steel quality is quite good, so should not over do it.

And I also have another question related to it, usually which part of the tank will be casted, which part will be rolled plate armors, I think most of the Mantlet is casted, right?

Thanks!

sorry, I have not found an alternative for using a motor tool, but casted armor is usually all of the round armor plates. rolled armor are the flat ones.

SS-74,
I usually use liquid cement like Testors and an old rough paint brush,do a little section at a time by brushing on the glue and then jabbing it with the brush as it dries,and then if needed,lightly sand it to tone it down some. works pretty good on my sherman turrets.
Thomas(modelmaniac)

To simulate pressed steel (rough casting), I use the liquid cement method and motor tool method. I use Tamiya's liquid cement and dab an old #2 sable in a random pattern on the surface. For the motor tool method, I use my Dremel. I place the Dremel on the palm of my hand and let it bounce off the surface. I suggest you practice on some old models before trying it. It takes a little practice.

the rubber lining on road wheels should almost always be slightly scuffed to simulate wear

take the kit out into an alley and beat the crap out of it..............lol

Hey Viking, that's a nice site you have. I'm just sorry I can't read German!

Hi SS-74
Modelmaniac's method has very good results. The liquid cement will soften the
plastic. I've seen this done on Bob Collignon's M4 Sherman in his article in
FSM magazine. It's really a great alternative to a motor-tool. I plan to use
the liquid cement method on my M4A3. Actually, I really think using a brush
to stipple the softened plastic, will have an even better visual effect than
using a motor-tool.
- ralph

Hi Ralph,

Thanks for the tip....okay this might be a stupid question....since I am just an amateur modeller, I am not too familiar with all the metal stuffs, and what sort of metal finish does the German vehicle has...the following is a number of AFV I am building/plan to build in the near future, could you please tell me which part on what AFV might need the rough treatment. Thanks in advance for your help.

1. Stug III auf A
2. Nashorn
3. Hummel
4. Jagdtiger
5. Hetzer

Thanks!

Hi Ralph,

Thanks for the tip....okay this might be a stupid question....since I am just an amateur modeller, I am not too familiar with all the metal stuffs, and what sort of metal finish does the German vehicle has...the following is a number of AFV I am building/plan to build in the near future, could you please tell me which part on what AFV might need the rough treatment. Thanks in advance for your help.

1. Stug III auf A
2. Nashorn
3. Hummel
4. Jagdtiger
5. Hetzer

Thanks!

Sundown,

If you go to Viking's site you will notice a little Union Jack fluttering toward the top of the page on the left. Click this and it takes you to the English version of the site.

HTH

The easiest (for the newcomer) and cleanest way I have found is using Gunze Sangyo Mr SURFACER 500. It's a liquid filler for plastic models and does not melt plastic/styrene. It produces excellent results simply.

Get a stiff brush with shortened bristles (1" long or dependant on the scale of the model, shorter than this), dip into the SURFACER 500 and stipple for effect. If you require a more pronounced cast effect (e.g. Russian WW2 armour), allow to dry for a few hours and repeat the process over the first layer. If you make a hash it can be easily removed with cellulose thinners. Hope this helps.

Pak...i just love your method!lol
Arthur
am alba mannich

arthur, ye are a wee bonnie prince of men, appreciate your humor.

thanks, chris