AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Matthew Toms
Airbrushing Future
X-FUZZ
Illinois, United States
Joined: December 30, 2009
KitMaker: 96 posts
Armorama: 64 posts
Joined: December 30, 2009
KitMaker: 96 posts
Armorama: 64 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 02, 2011 - 05:05 PM UTC
Can i airbrush Future right out of the bottle or does it have to be thinned? And what do i use to clean my airbrush after using future?
BigSmitty
Minnesota, United States
Joined: October 01, 2008
KitMaker: 597 posts
Armorama: 439 posts
Joined: October 01, 2008
KitMaker: 597 posts
Armorama: 439 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 02, 2011 - 05:32 PM UTC
I always run it through straight out of the bottle. I clean up (as with any acrylic) with Windex, followed by distilled water to keep the Windex from etching the inside of my HP-CS. Never had a problem.
X-FUZZ
Illinois, United States
Joined: December 30, 2009
KitMaker: 96 posts
Armorama: 64 posts
Joined: December 30, 2009
KitMaker: 96 posts
Armorama: 64 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 03, 2011 - 01:45 AM UTC
thanks for the help.
Whitey
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: September 20, 2010
KitMaker: 137 posts
Armorama: 100 posts
Joined: September 20, 2010
KitMaker: 137 posts
Armorama: 100 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 03, 2011 - 02:18 PM UTC
I tried thinning it with water when I first used it, but eventually I too found that it goes on better straight out of the bottle. Windex and water for clean-up here, too.
ebergerud
California, United States
Joined: July 15, 2010
KitMaker: 297 posts
Armorama: 164 posts
Joined: July 15, 2010
KitMaker: 297 posts
Armorama: 164 posts
Posted: Friday, February 04, 2011 - 06:22 PM UTC
Future brushes just fine. Have to pass on a tip from the Promodeller forum in the UK. Future acts very differently if airbrushed than if hand brushed. Airbrush is great for putting on a protective layer. It's also good to seal a model if you want a satin finish. (Put 1 parts Tamiya base flat into 4 Future and you've got a good substitute for Dullcoate.) If you want a real gloss finish for some reason, hand brush is the only way. Future self-levels so there's brush strokes - just don't globe it on. I'm also experimenting with using a couple of drops in acrylic paints to keep the pigments suspended and slow tip clogging and improve flow. (Depending upon pigments, they'll start to collect at the bottom of your cup very quickly and that's not good for a good finish. That's some experienced modelers use a mini electric paint mixer made by Badger or rig one up with a Dremel: they want to get the pigments really spread throughout the paint.) Assume you realize that Future is essentially a sprayed on acrylic so unless you're really careful, you want washes or filters done with enamels or oils. Wouldn't want to use pigments in acrylic thinner either. Cleaning the brush is no problem. I use lacquer thinner on anything. Future, however, is made for housework and cleans very easily with windex - which is a pretty decent airbrush cleaner for acrylics in any case. I do use my Talon with a .5 tip in stead of my Evo with a .20 - but I doubt it's necessary. I've got them both out and with future you're spraying the whole kit probably, so a fine spray is pointless.
Posted: Friday, February 04, 2011 - 11:32 PM UTC
Another cool use for Future is as a light filter. I add a couple of drops of artists watercolour to the future and use it to blend my base coat colours at the same time as giving them a protective gloss coat for decalling.
pseudorealityx
Georgia, United States
Joined: January 31, 2010
KitMaker: 2,191 posts
Armorama: 1,814 posts
Joined: January 31, 2010
KitMaker: 2,191 posts
Armorama: 1,814 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 05, 2011 - 03:09 AM UTC
I've had better luck with cheap airbrush cutting Future with about 20% water. For whatever reason, it lays on smoother for me that way.
Jedge3
Michigan, United States
Joined: July 17, 2010
KitMaker: 258 posts
Armorama: 208 posts
Joined: July 17, 2010
KitMaker: 258 posts
Armorama: 208 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 05, 2011 - 03:32 AM UTC
I use it right out the bottle with a cheap Harbor Freight 0.35 sized needle airbrush. Clean with Windex with ammonia and then clean water.
medicman
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: April 11, 2008
KitMaker: 52 posts
Armorama: 44 posts
Joined: April 11, 2008
KitMaker: 52 posts
Armorama: 44 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 05, 2011 - 03:48 AM UTC
Would alcohol clean thr air brush or should windex be used ?
BigSmitty
Minnesota, United States
Joined: October 01, 2008
KitMaker: 597 posts
Armorama: 439 posts
Joined: October 01, 2008
KitMaker: 597 posts
Armorama: 439 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 05, 2011 - 04:49 AM UTC
I would suggest Windex, or some cleaner with ammonia, to clean after spraying Future. Alcohol may work, but as fast as it dries, I'm not sure it would be a good enough cleaner. As a thinning agent, I love it as it seems to "mist" acrylics better for me. But Windex is will clean it as opposed to just thinning like alcohol. Flushing with distilled/deionized water is a must though, as the ammonia based cleaners will clean out the Future, but will also eat away at the metal innards of your airbrush.
Deadball
Illinois, United States
Joined: February 25, 2007
KitMaker: 55 posts
Armorama: 52 posts
Joined: February 25, 2007
KitMaker: 55 posts
Armorama: 52 posts
Posted: Monday, February 07, 2011 - 01:59 AM UTC
Speaking of using Windex to clean up: I only recently learned the dangers of too much exposure to Windex in the airbrush during cleaning, and have since made sure I run water through it afterward. So far, I haven't noticed any change in performance. What should I look for?
BigSmitty
Minnesota, United States
Joined: October 01, 2008
KitMaker: 597 posts
Armorama: 439 posts
Joined: October 01, 2008
KitMaker: 597 posts
Armorama: 439 posts
Posted: Monday, February 07, 2011 - 08:53 AM UTC
The ammonia component of Windex/Windolene/et al will eat away at the metal internal parts of the airbrush, which is why most will flush with deionized water after the Windex to clear out any residual ammonia. My guess is that prolonged Windex exposure/dunking could leave small ridges/grooves on some parts that could affect the air/paint flow or mix, leaving sputters, splatters and such. Don't know for sure, but that would be my guess. Also would depend on the construction of your particular airbrush.
Blimey007
United States
Joined: May 28, 2011
KitMaker: 31 posts
Armorama: 25 posts
Joined: May 28, 2011
KitMaker: 31 posts
Armorama: 25 posts
Posted: Tuesday, June 14, 2011 - 01:15 PM UTC
Ok, soooo what is wrong with using regular tap water?
Emeritus
Uusimaa, Finland
Joined: March 30, 2004
KitMaker: 2,845 posts
Armorama: 808 posts
Joined: March 30, 2004
KitMaker: 2,845 posts
Armorama: 808 posts
Posted: Wednesday, June 15, 2011 - 12:07 AM UTC
Basically nothing really, as far as I'm concerned. It's just that sometimes tap water can contain small amounts of minerals or other impurities which can leave blotches of residue after drying.
Depending on the properties of tap water in one's area, using distilled water can range from a necessity to just playing it safe.
I think the one definite advantage of using distilled water is the consistency, you know what you're getting and how it'll perform.
Depending on the properties of tap water in one's area, using distilled water can range from a necessity to just playing it safe.
I think the one definite advantage of using distilled water is the consistency, you know what you're getting and how it'll perform.
Blimey007
United States
Joined: May 28, 2011
KitMaker: 31 posts
Armorama: 25 posts
Joined: May 28, 2011
KitMaker: 31 posts
Armorama: 25 posts
Posted: Thursday, June 16, 2011 - 02:35 AM UTC
Makes sense,must hide my destilled water, greedy room-mate drinks it,thinking it is drinking water, noob