What wash would you use on a Panzer Grey vehicle?
Would you recommend a brownish?
P.A.
AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Matthew Toms
Wash on Panzer Grey
PanzerAlexander
Attica, Greece / Ελλάδα
Joined: February 17, 2010
KitMaker: 625 posts
Armorama: 608 posts
Joined: February 17, 2010
KitMaker: 625 posts
Armorama: 608 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 05, 2011 - 09:51 AM UTC
collin26
Connecticut, United States
Joined: March 24, 2007
KitMaker: 317 posts
Armorama: 259 posts
Joined: March 24, 2007
KitMaker: 317 posts
Armorama: 259 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 05, 2011 - 10:01 AM UTC
I would say a "dark blackish brown" in deep shadowed areas and "dark brown" elsewere. What is the subject? Any pics. of the panzer grey - how dark is it? A "dark blue-ish grey" would look nice on the higher up areas of the vehicle, areas where less earth would be collected in the panel lines.
Can you tell us what you plan to use for your washes?
Can you tell us what you plan to use for your washes?
panzerbob01
Louisiana, United States
Joined: March 06, 2010
KitMaker: 3,128 posts
Armorama: 2,959 posts
Joined: March 06, 2010
KitMaker: 3,128 posts
Armorama: 2,959 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 05, 2011 - 11:28 AM UTC
Alex, Lain;
Hi! I recently used a thin "van Dycke brown" (Windsor & Newton oil) in turpenoid wash over a two-colour Tamiya acryl ("Geman Grey XF-63" (actually slightly lightened with some Tamiya deck-tan) with ca 30% "Olive green" blotch camo) finish on a Dragon flakpanzer IA ...
This was a liberal wash over the whole kit - added a very slight warming to the general coats, helped to blend and merge slightly the blotches with the base, and gathered nicely in cracks and crannies and around bolt-heads and seams. A second dose after the first had dried added some slight "surface-rusting" in some areas.
I followed with pin-wash around details and in hatch-cracks using a dark raw umber oil in turpenoid - this much-darker colour served well to pick these out against the fairly-dark coats and is a pretty fair colour-contrast to both the grey and green elements. Raw umber is less brown and "warm" than is the van-dycke.
Note: I applied both body and pin-washes over Tamiya acryl flat finishes - which had cured for over 2 weeks. I did not get any "tidal marks", but did find that wash-build-ups and overly-darkened areas occurred- these were addressed nicely with a brush dipped in clean turpenoid after the washes had pretty much dried.
I followed the washes with very thin lightened Tamiya flat earth sprayed on for a road dust and some light pastel chalks to give dust depth and counter-points.
Bob
Hi! I recently used a thin "van Dycke brown" (Windsor & Newton oil) in turpenoid wash over a two-colour Tamiya acryl ("Geman Grey XF-63" (actually slightly lightened with some Tamiya deck-tan) with ca 30% "Olive green" blotch camo) finish on a Dragon flakpanzer IA ...
This was a liberal wash over the whole kit - added a very slight warming to the general coats, helped to blend and merge slightly the blotches with the base, and gathered nicely in cracks and crannies and around bolt-heads and seams. A second dose after the first had dried added some slight "surface-rusting" in some areas.
I followed with pin-wash around details and in hatch-cracks using a dark raw umber oil in turpenoid - this much-darker colour served well to pick these out against the fairly-dark coats and is a pretty fair colour-contrast to both the grey and green elements. Raw umber is less brown and "warm" than is the van-dycke.
Note: I applied both body and pin-washes over Tamiya acryl flat finishes - which had cured for over 2 weeks. I did not get any "tidal marks", but did find that wash-build-ups and overly-darkened areas occurred- these were addressed nicely with a brush dipped in clean turpenoid after the washes had pretty much dried.
I followed the washes with very thin lightened Tamiya flat earth sprayed on for a road dust and some light pastel chalks to give dust depth and counter-points.
Bob
PanzerAlexander
Attica, Greece / Ελλάδα
Joined: February 17, 2010
KitMaker: 625 posts
Armorama: 608 posts
Joined: February 17, 2010
KitMaker: 625 posts
Armorama: 608 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 06, 2011 - 01:06 AM UTC
Thank you guys for taking the time to comment. I have uploaded some pics for reference.
I am painting a 1/72 Horch with the Flak 30, and for the first time I applied the principles of color modulation.
Right now after having completed the basic color and shades, I want to apply some washes and move on to chipping, dot filtering and pigments.
My question is what color of wash and how much dark I should use. Should it be a more dark Panzergrey or a brownish, or something else.
Thank you, P.A.
I am painting a 1/72 Horch with the Flak 30, and for the first time I applied the principles of color modulation.
Right now after having completed the basic color and shades, I want to apply some washes and move on to chipping, dot filtering and pigments.
My question is what color of wash and how much dark I should use. Should it be a more dark Panzergrey or a brownish, or something else.
Thank you, P.A.
SSGToms
Connecticut, United States
Joined: April 02, 2005
KitMaker: 3,608 posts
Armorama: 3,092 posts
Joined: April 02, 2005
KitMaker: 3,608 posts
Armorama: 3,092 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 06, 2011 - 07:10 AM UTC
Okay, I know this is heretical crazy talk but I'll confess. I like to give all my Dunkelgrau models a thin wash of ivory black. I like the way it warms up the grey and brings out the blue shift.
I also do panel washes (filters) of ultramarine blue and yellow ochre to give a little variety and visual interest. Even an all grey tank should not be monochromatic. You want people to discover something interesting everywhere they look on your model.
I also do panel washes (filters) of ultramarine blue and yellow ochre to give a little variety and visual interest. Even an all grey tank should not be monochromatic. You want people to discover something interesting everywhere they look on your model.
PanzerAlexander
Attica, Greece / Ελλάδα
Joined: February 17, 2010
KitMaker: 625 posts
Armorama: 608 posts
Joined: February 17, 2010
KitMaker: 625 posts
Armorama: 608 posts
Posted: Monday, February 07, 2011 - 09:33 AM UTC
Thanks everyone for helping.
The weathering up to now :
- Pin wash with MIG dark wash on shadow areas (shadows)
- Pin wash but a little wider with Vallejo sepia 73200 acrylic wash on the same spots (blending)
- Overall wash, worked like a filter actually, with very dilluted 73200 sepia (tones down contrast, makes the model ''warmer'')
- Light grey chips
- Dark brown chips
Next is oil filtering.
Again, thanks for helping P.A.
The weathering up to now :
- Pin wash with MIG dark wash on shadow areas (shadows)
- Pin wash but a little wider with Vallejo sepia 73200 acrylic wash on the same spots (blending)
- Overall wash, worked like a filter actually, with very dilluted 73200 sepia (tones down contrast, makes the model ''warmer'')
- Light grey chips
- Dark brown chips
Next is oil filtering.
Again, thanks for helping P.A.