I understand three basics of how the two filter are applied, and both are intended to alter the tones of the base colors. I'm trying to understand which method is a better fit for what I'm trying to do.
I have a 6 color scheme comprised of light tan, light gray, and transparent applications of field drab, two types of green, and black--based somewhat on the ATACS camouflage scheme. I'm looking for a good technique to try and unify the scheme a bit. Filters are an obvious choice, but would a dot filter or the 5% paint/95% thinner filter make the most sense?
AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Matthew Toms
Wash type filter vs dot filter
Mark_W
Virginia, United States
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Posted: Saturday, February 05, 2011 - 01:43 PM UTC
pseudorealityx
Georgia, United States
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Posted: Saturday, February 05, 2011 - 03:00 PM UTC
I would suggest wash filter, as the dot filter is used to add variations within a single color. The wash filter is used to tie varying colors together via small tonal changes.
vonHengest
Texas, United States
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Posted: Saturday, February 05, 2011 - 04:00 PM UTC
Agreed, you want the 5/95 wash to harmonize your multi-color paint scheme. Leave the dot method for single color vehicles (panzer grey, dunkelgelb, od) or schemes with large patches of color.
Mark_W
Virginia, United States
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Posted: Saturday, February 05, 2011 - 04:16 PM UTC
Thanks, that was the missing info I needed to distinguish the two. And by using slightly different wash filters depending on what part of the vehicle I'm working on, I can create tonal variations between horizontal and vertical surfaces.
SSGToms
Connecticut, United States
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Posted: Sunday, February 06, 2011 - 07:16 AM UTC
That's right Mark, you got it.
Mark_W
Virginia, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, February 09, 2011 - 08:47 AM UTC
I put on the desired wash type filters, but now am struggling with rain mark type weathering. The vehicle would have been exposed to a European environment, meaing decent amounts of weather. Since the camo pattern is so diverse, and one vertical panel could cover several colors, am I right to think a one or two color dot filter would work (like a generic buff color), or should I try to tune the dots by camo splotch?
pseudorealityx
Georgia, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, February 09, 2011 - 11:18 AM UTC
For rain marks, I wouldn't be using dots....
For rain type marks, I'd make up a heavy wash (more of a thinned paint) of oil/enamel. Make your streak(s), and let it setup a little bit, 5-10 mins. Then come back with a small clean brush that's damp with clean thinner, and move in a vertical direction. Clean the brush so you're not painting, but rather fading out the streak.
For rain type marks, I'd make up a heavy wash (more of a thinned paint) of oil/enamel. Make your streak(s), and let it setup a little bit, 5-10 mins. Then come back with a small clean brush that's damp with clean thinner, and move in a vertical direction. Clean the brush so you're not painting, but rather fading out the streak.
Mark_W
Virginia, United States
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Posted: Thursday, February 10, 2011 - 03:26 AM UTC
This is where I'm struggling. Looking at a modern Leopard 2A6, which is similar to my job in that it has a multi-colored scheme, the majority of pictures I have seen show the overall colors are faded (black is really dark gray, etc), but all the streaking is horizontal along the skirts and occasionally along the vertical sides of the turret. Since my tank is a mover, not a sitter, I guess traditional rain marks wouldn't make as much sense.
pseudorealityx
Georgia, United States
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Posted: Thursday, February 10, 2011 - 03:35 AM UTC
You do what makes YOU happy. Seriously, this is a hobby. If YOU like the results, and YOU think it's looks more realistic, go for it.
Easy_Co
England - South East, United Kingdom
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Posted: Friday, February 11, 2011 - 08:17 AM UTC
Hi Mark,The Leopard your talking about,has it been wading throughmuddy water that could leave a horizontal tide mark.
Mark_W
Virginia, United States
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Posted: Friday, February 11, 2011 - 02:15 PM UTC
I'm pretty sure that's not the case. You see those marks on clean tanks, and they usually look like chalky white streaks. That's why I suspect it's due to passing through terrain, with branches our whatever scraping along the sides.
vonHengest
Texas, United States
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Posted: Friday, February 11, 2011 - 02:58 PM UTC
It could be any number of things. If I remember correctly the older dark multi-colored European camo schemes tended to fade in somewhat odd patterns and no two vehicles really ever faded or weathered the same. Just something to consider
Easy_Co
England - South East, United Kingdom
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Posted: Friday, February 11, 2011 - 10:10 PM UTC
mark back to the how to do its have you looked at thAK range of weathering products, I looked at their video on You Tube their streaking products might be what your looking for,Ive never tried them but Ive heard good reports.
Mark_W
Virginia, United States
Joined: December 27, 2009
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Posted: Saturday, February 12, 2011 - 07:32 AM UTC
Sorry if I'm a bit dense, but I don't know all the players in the weathering field. What specifically should I look for in youtube? "thAK" I think is a typo?
Posted: Saturday, February 12, 2011 - 07:57 AM UTC
Here's a cat to prowl amongst everyone's Pidgeons
I use both on the same model.
First I use dry oils for general fading and modulation
Then the overall wash/filter to lighten or darken or unify the scheme
Then the dot filter to add variation in tone
Finally more dots, moved only in a vertical motion toget my rainstreaks.
Obviously its a long process as you have to let the oils dry in between each stage, and I seal. This stops the thinners used in the second stage and onwards from disturbing the oils underneath and lifting them
This multi layered approach is intended to give a much more varied and visually interesting surface, and obviously I vary the application of these based on what look I'm trying to achieve.
For the dots used for the rainstreaks I use bloack, white and a complimentary colour (for instance on the Dunklegelb and Olivegrun PzII I just did, I used Yellow ochre)
Chris
I use both on the same model.
First I use dry oils for general fading and modulation
Then the overall wash/filter to lighten or darken or unify the scheme
Then the dot filter to add variation in tone
Finally more dots, moved only in a vertical motion toget my rainstreaks.
Obviously its a long process as you have to let the oils dry in between each stage, and I seal. This stops the thinners used in the second stage and onwards from disturbing the oils underneath and lifting them
This multi layered approach is intended to give a much more varied and visually interesting surface, and obviously I vary the application of these based on what look I'm trying to achieve.
For the dots used for the rainstreaks I use bloack, white and a complimentary colour (for instance on the Dunklegelb and Olivegrun PzII I just did, I used Yellow ochre)
Chris
Easy_Co
England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: September 11, 2002
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Posted: Saturday, February 12, 2011 - 08:08 AM UTC
sorry Mark the secretary took the day off, its A.K. weathering products.
Mark_W
Virginia, United States
Joined: December 27, 2009
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Joined: December 27, 2009
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Posted: Saturday, February 12, 2011 - 11:16 AM UTC
Thanks again to all!