Hi Folks -
I've been away from modeling for nearly 15 years and boy has it changed. I've been reading this site for several weeks and seeing all the new advances in techniques, new aftermarket parts, and kits is very intimidating. I use to build WWII German armor, mainly Tamiya kits. Recently, I was given some Dragon and TriStar Panzer kits and wanted to get back into the hobby.
I'd appreciate some advice as to what to start with; What are the more popular paints to use? Kit manufacturers? Painting techniques for a beginner? Aftermarket items that a beginner could try?
Thanks so much. I am looking forward to getting back into this hobby that I've missed for a long time.
John
Hosted by Darren Baker
Away For A Long Time - Advice Needed
JaxPanzer
Florida, United States
Joined: February 07, 2011
KitMaker: 1 posts
Armorama: 1 posts
Joined: February 07, 2011
KitMaker: 1 posts
Armorama: 1 posts
Posted: Monday, February 07, 2011 - 11:11 AM UTC
Rouse713
Wisconsin, United States
Joined: February 03, 2009
KitMaker: 367 posts
Armorama: 326 posts
Joined: February 03, 2009
KitMaker: 367 posts
Armorama: 326 posts
Posted: Monday, February 07, 2011 - 11:40 AM UTC
John,
Welcome back? I have only been modelling for ~5 years now (I am 22).
I always try to model what I have a thirst for. When I see a picture in a book and I feel really connected, that is the next kit I build.
For example, some pictures of tigers in Normandy really get me going. The sheer weight, the contour, the camouflage, the foliage....all these things make we want to have my own tiger and mimic those real feelings.
I guess I would start with what you want to model. Your first model will certianly not be to you the definitive model on that subject. That is great, because it will show you are improving. After a few models, you will probably revist that item and build another. So don't beat yourself up on your first model. I am working on my 3rd grille/bison, because it has taken me my first two to get the hang of the narrow tracks and big road wheel scheme of the chezk 38t series. My first two never sit right
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I would recommend viewing some of the great build logs hosted on this site (as well as some on planetArmor's Vbench). Those will walk you through everything.
If I had to give one advice for a new modeller since the 70's-80's, it would be to learn indy link tracks. I think these will add a wealth of capabilities and depth to the newer models. Most (good) DML kits will have magic track. This is good to get used to. Also you can do aftermarket.
Long post out.
Have fun!!!
Welcome back? I have only been modelling for ~5 years now (I am 22).
I always try to model what I have a thirst for. When I see a picture in a book and I feel really connected, that is the next kit I build.
For example, some pictures of tigers in Normandy really get me going. The sheer weight, the contour, the camouflage, the foliage....all these things make we want to have my own tiger and mimic those real feelings.
I guess I would start with what you want to model. Your first model will certianly not be to you the definitive model on that subject. That is great, because it will show you are improving. After a few models, you will probably revist that item and build another. So don't beat yourself up on your first model. I am working on my 3rd grille/bison, because it has taken me my first two to get the hang of the narrow tracks and big road wheel scheme of the chezk 38t series. My first two never sit right
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I would recommend viewing some of the great build logs hosted on this site (as well as some on planetArmor's Vbench). Those will walk you through everything.
If I had to give one advice for a new modeller since the 70's-80's, it would be to learn indy link tracks. I think these will add a wealth of capabilities and depth to the newer models. Most (good) DML kits will have magic track. This is good to get used to. Also you can do aftermarket.
Long post out.
Have fun!!!
Rouse713
Wisconsin, United States
Joined: February 03, 2009
KitMaker: 367 posts
Armorama: 326 posts
Joined: February 03, 2009
KitMaker: 367 posts
Armorama: 326 posts
Posted: Monday, February 07, 2011 - 11:45 AM UTC
Also, do you have an airbrush? That will determine a lot of things about which models / camos you should attempt?
Thanks.
Thanks.
retiredyank
Arkansas, United States
Joined: June 29, 2009
KitMaker: 11,610 posts
Armorama: 7,843 posts
Joined: June 29, 2009
KitMaker: 11,610 posts
Armorama: 7,843 posts
Posted: Monday, February 07, 2011 - 12:16 PM UTC
I would recomend Tamiya, Academy, or Italeri for your first models. Some of the Academy and Tamiya kits include indi tracks. Stay away from artillery, unless you really enjoy building kits with a hundred small parts that are all necessary. If you want to try your hand at airbrushing, start by going to Harbor Freight and picking up one of their's for $20. It is a good AB to practise with and also a good back-up brush. I'm not sure how long pigments have been around, but skilled use breaths a whole new life into models. As you progress, you may want to look in photo-etch. As with everything else, practise makes perfect. Welcome back to the addiction.
BigSmitty
Minnesota, United States
Joined: October 01, 2008
KitMaker: 597 posts
Armorama: 439 posts
Joined: October 01, 2008
KitMaker: 597 posts
Armorama: 439 posts
Posted: Monday, February 07, 2011 - 12:27 PM UTC
Tamiya kits are still really really nice. Not overly engineered, and still build up into quite good models. I would recommend sticking with something like their newer StuG IIIB (#35281), as it has markings for four units, an aluminum barrel and a small (5 piece) fret of PE, a semi complete interior, rubber band tracks (which are quite detailed) and a nice single camo scheme with Panzer Grey.
I recommend it because you can get used to the multimedia (PE) and working on interiors (albeit not greatly detailed) from the same kit without having to shell out extra for those items. Dragon kits are great, but the single biggest complaint is you almost need a degree in mechanical engineering to decipher the instructions and some parts aren't marked very clearly, which could get frustrating.
Anyways, just my 2c.
I recommend it because you can get used to the multimedia (PE) and working on interiors (albeit not greatly detailed) from the same kit without having to shell out extra for those items. Dragon kits are great, but the single biggest complaint is you almost need a degree in mechanical engineering to decipher the instructions and some parts aren't marked very clearly, which could get frustrating.
Anyways, just my 2c.
Bizarre
Akershus, Norway
Joined: July 20, 2010
KitMaker: 1,709 posts
Armorama: 1,581 posts
Joined: July 20, 2010
KitMaker: 1,709 posts
Armorama: 1,581 posts
Posted: Monday, February 07, 2011 - 01:15 PM UTC
I would recommend starting with a model without many parts and PE. Simple painting scheme.
Look for painting blogs, see videos on youtube (f.e. Scalemodelmedic) or DVDs from AK interactive.
Look for painting blogs, see videos on youtube (f.e. Scalemodelmedic) or DVDs from AK interactive.
KoSprueOne
Myanmar
Joined: March 05, 2004
KitMaker: 4,011 posts
Armorama: 1,498 posts
Joined: March 05, 2004
KitMaker: 4,011 posts
Armorama: 1,498 posts
Posted: Monday, February 07, 2011 - 02:10 PM UTC
Hi and welcome back
buy some super glue and liquid cement. Not necessarily those brands, but the equivalent product. Tube glue is rarely used anymore
buy some super glue and liquid cement. Not necessarily those brands, but the equivalent product. Tube glue is rarely used anymore
panzerbob01
Louisiana, United States
Joined: March 06, 2010
KitMaker: 3,128 posts
Armorama: 2,959 posts
Joined: March 06, 2010
KitMaker: 3,128 posts
Armorama: 2,959 posts
Posted: Tuesday, February 08, 2011 - 04:58 AM UTC
John:
Welcome back, fellow Returnee! I dropped out in '75 and returned in 2008. Armour then, armour now.
Talk about world change! At least Tamiya and Italeri still exist!
For whatever it's worth: Just jump in on a subject you like! Do internet search to see what kits are out there and what some folks have said about them. Get a kit - pick from respected "less fight" kits (so, pick from major modern brands and avoid things like Alan, RPM, Mirage, Heller, etc., which while often very interesting, tend to be much more fight than ready, comfy build- I'd go with Tamiya, Dragon, modern Trumpeter, AFV Club, HobbyBoss, Bronco - but read reviews on the kit you look at before you buy to see if it has some real wrestles in it- warped hulls, stuff which won't fit, etc.)). Assemble your tools and work-space. Open the box and grok the parts and the paper. Start slowly and work into it. ENJOY the plastic and the "work"!
Indy-link tracks? For German, it's the way to go. Take your time and it will come together. Dragon does about the best in a kit (I love MagicTracks). I first met them in 2008 - only complaint I've ever had about indy links was due to my doing tiny tanks (Panzer I) - the links are really tiny. "Real" tanks, like Panzer III/IV, Panther, Tiger - are just a breeze. The links are big enough for me to actually SEE!
Parts count? Tamiya does have less (fewer)... But honestly, most Dragon kits, while more replete with tiny pieces, are actually pretty fun. And more parts might get you more detail, too! You've already built, so just jump onto a Dragon if it's something you like!
PE? I first saw PE in 2008. First metal bends and first cyanoacrylate (superglue) gluing were a little bit scary, but I came around to enjoy the stuff in the kits, and you will, too! Most modern kits have some PE, and many offer options to use it or not for a good build.
Accessory PE and stuff? Mostly Not I - I'm an old scratch-builder. I'd start out with a kit - later, work up accessorizing - the opportunities for that are endless.
Paints? I'm really happy with Tamiya acryls and Testors ModelMaster enamels and acryls. Check this and other sites for lots of great discussions on paints and techniques.
I found getting a great airbrush was the big step towards larger modeling satisfaction, for me. Again, read around the modeling sites for lots of great info on tools!
New stuff I learned in the past 2 years: PE, indy links, better air-brushing, lots of newer paints and techniques, and weathering using pigments and pastel chalks.
Jump in and enjoy! Welcome back to the hobby, friend!
Bob
Welcome back, fellow Returnee! I dropped out in '75 and returned in 2008. Armour then, armour now.
Talk about world change! At least Tamiya and Italeri still exist!
For whatever it's worth: Just jump in on a subject you like! Do internet search to see what kits are out there and what some folks have said about them. Get a kit - pick from respected "less fight" kits (so, pick from major modern brands and avoid things like Alan, RPM, Mirage, Heller, etc., which while often very interesting, tend to be much more fight than ready, comfy build- I'd go with Tamiya, Dragon, modern Trumpeter, AFV Club, HobbyBoss, Bronco - but read reviews on the kit you look at before you buy to see if it has some real wrestles in it- warped hulls, stuff which won't fit, etc.)). Assemble your tools and work-space. Open the box and grok the parts and the paper. Start slowly and work into it. ENJOY the plastic and the "work"!
Indy-link tracks? For German, it's the way to go. Take your time and it will come together. Dragon does about the best in a kit (I love MagicTracks). I first met them in 2008 - only complaint I've ever had about indy links was due to my doing tiny tanks (Panzer I) - the links are really tiny. "Real" tanks, like Panzer III/IV, Panther, Tiger - are just a breeze. The links are big enough for me to actually SEE!
Parts count? Tamiya does have less (fewer)... But honestly, most Dragon kits, while more replete with tiny pieces, are actually pretty fun. And more parts might get you more detail, too! You've already built, so just jump onto a Dragon if it's something you like!
PE? I first saw PE in 2008. First metal bends and first cyanoacrylate (superglue) gluing were a little bit scary, but I came around to enjoy the stuff in the kits, and you will, too! Most modern kits have some PE, and many offer options to use it or not for a good build.
Accessory PE and stuff? Mostly Not I - I'm an old scratch-builder. I'd start out with a kit - later, work up accessorizing - the opportunities for that are endless.
Paints? I'm really happy with Tamiya acryls and Testors ModelMaster enamels and acryls. Check this and other sites for lots of great discussions on paints and techniques.
I found getting a great airbrush was the big step towards larger modeling satisfaction, for me. Again, read around the modeling sites for lots of great info on tools!
New stuff I learned in the past 2 years: PE, indy links, better air-brushing, lots of newer paints and techniques, and weathering using pigments and pastel chalks.
Jump in and enjoy! Welcome back to the hobby, friend!
Bob
PBR_Streetgang
California, United States
Joined: February 10, 2008
KitMaker: 62 posts
Armorama: 48 posts
Joined: February 10, 2008
KitMaker: 62 posts
Armorama: 48 posts
Posted: Friday, April 08, 2011 - 01:21 PM UTC
Hi John,
Welcome back to modeling! I am 55 and remember when Tamiya kits first came out! They were the first ones to really have a serious collection of Eastern Front models. At the time there were a few tanks from Monogram in 1/32, but they were kinda rough. I won several awards and local shows with Tamiya kits.
Problem is, Tamiya has not kept up with all the newer releases. They have some updated kits, but still schlepp their older ones.
To get started, there is nothing wrong with getting a few older Tamiya releases and building these again. They fall together and still look great. They are lacking on some detail and accuracy, but you can pick them up on e-bay for about $10 a pop. A GOOD Dragon kit sells for a lot more. Save those for when you get better.
I have built a few Tamiya kits to practice my painting technique. At this level, paint is almost an art form. You don't just paint the basic color anymore, but add shading, dirt, grease, mud, etc. Look at the models of Mig Jimenez or Verlinden or others. It's something.
Once you have that down, you can get into different tracks, barrels and photo-etch. But if you start off with this stuff, it'll overwhelm you. Plan on building 5-6 kits right out of the box. Something like a Tamiya or Italeri or something like that.
Also, get a decent airbrush. You can get a nice one used if you don't have the change. I use T&C Omni's and just recently got a Badger Renegade. Man, what an airbrush! You can damn near paint eyes with it! Get a little compressor or gas cylinder or whatever. I bought a nice Coleman compressor at Home Depot for like $150 and I can pump up tires with it if I get a flat. It's the way to go.
Whatever you do, don't lose interest. That's why I say get several simple kits and build them right out of the box. Accept the paint as you lay it down. If you bung it up, build another one. It takes practice to be a contest winner or just to build a super model.
Hope this encourages you! Hang in there...
Bill B.
Welcome back to modeling! I am 55 and remember when Tamiya kits first came out! They were the first ones to really have a serious collection of Eastern Front models. At the time there were a few tanks from Monogram in 1/32, but they were kinda rough. I won several awards and local shows with Tamiya kits.
Problem is, Tamiya has not kept up with all the newer releases. They have some updated kits, but still schlepp their older ones.
To get started, there is nothing wrong with getting a few older Tamiya releases and building these again. They fall together and still look great. They are lacking on some detail and accuracy, but you can pick them up on e-bay for about $10 a pop. A GOOD Dragon kit sells for a lot more. Save those for when you get better.
I have built a few Tamiya kits to practice my painting technique. At this level, paint is almost an art form. You don't just paint the basic color anymore, but add shading, dirt, grease, mud, etc. Look at the models of Mig Jimenez or Verlinden or others. It's something.
Once you have that down, you can get into different tracks, barrels and photo-etch. But if you start off with this stuff, it'll overwhelm you. Plan on building 5-6 kits right out of the box. Something like a Tamiya or Italeri or something like that.
Also, get a decent airbrush. You can get a nice one used if you don't have the change. I use T&C Omni's and just recently got a Badger Renegade. Man, what an airbrush! You can damn near paint eyes with it! Get a little compressor or gas cylinder or whatever. I bought a nice Coleman compressor at Home Depot for like $150 and I can pump up tires with it if I get a flat. It's the way to go.
Whatever you do, don't lose interest. That's why I say get several simple kits and build them right out of the box. Accept the paint as you lay it down. If you bung it up, build another one. It takes practice to be a contest winner or just to build a super model.
Hope this encourages you! Hang in there...
Bill B.
reccymech
Victoria, Australia
Joined: February 20, 2011
KitMaker: 87 posts
Armorama: 74 posts
Joined: February 20, 2011
KitMaker: 87 posts
Armorama: 74 posts
Posted: Friday, April 08, 2011 - 02:27 PM UTC
G'day John,
Just like you "I have returned", or is that I never really left, anyway, I'm taking in everything on this site as the modeling scene has definitely changed. I've been back for about a month now.
I went out and purchased, much to the annoyance of 'she who must be obeyed' all of the tool,s including an airbrush (Iwata), so I'm set up. I've also purchased some 'cheapie' model kits, including their conversion sets just so I can practice, practice, practice.
So far the results: below average, more the case of getting more airbrush practice (getting the paint/thinners ratio right).
Am I enjoying it......You bet! Looking at some of the models on this, and other sites gives me some measure of the standard that I want to achieve.
Cheers,
Mark
Just like you "I have returned", or is that I never really left, anyway, I'm taking in everything on this site as the modeling scene has definitely changed. I've been back for about a month now.
I went out and purchased, much to the annoyance of 'she who must be obeyed' all of the tool,s including an airbrush (Iwata), so I'm set up. I've also purchased some 'cheapie' model kits, including their conversion sets just so I can practice, practice, practice.
So far the results: below average, more the case of getting more airbrush practice (getting the paint/thinners ratio right).
Am I enjoying it......You bet! Looking at some of the models on this, and other sites gives me some measure of the standard that I want to achieve.
Cheers,
Mark
bill_c
Campaigns Administrator
New Jersey, United States
Joined: January 09, 2008
KitMaker: 10,553 posts
Armorama: 8,109 posts
Joined: January 09, 2008
KitMaker: 10,553 posts
Armorama: 8,109 posts
Posted: Sunday, April 10, 2011 - 07:29 AM UTC
Welcome back! I was gone about the same amount of time as Bob (no, I wasn't in prison, LOL).
Just follow your nose. There is no "perfect" kit, and you'll learn something from each one. The Tamiya kits build up well, but aren't usually very detailed in comparison to the newer Dragon ones (be careful, though, there are three levels of Dragon-- ancient Dragon Shanghai, older Dragon ones with heavily-brown boxtops, and anything with Ron Volstad's paintings on the box art (they're the best ones).
If you don't have an airbrush, treat yourself. They've very cheap right now, and the difference in airbrushed v. hand-painted is amazing.
Photo Etch (PE) is a matter of personal choice. You can spend literally more time on the PE than one the kit, so be careful you're comfortable with it. I jumped right in on my first kit back (a Tamiya Pz. III) and haven't regretted using it, as I'm in favor of super-detailing.
As for paint, they're all quite good these days. Acrylics clean up better than enamels and are less of a fumes problem.
Hope that helps.
Just follow your nose. There is no "perfect" kit, and you'll learn something from each one. The Tamiya kits build up well, but aren't usually very detailed in comparison to the newer Dragon ones (be careful, though, there are three levels of Dragon-- ancient Dragon Shanghai, older Dragon ones with heavily-brown boxtops, and anything with Ron Volstad's paintings on the box art (they're the best ones).
If you don't have an airbrush, treat yourself. They've very cheap right now, and the difference in airbrushed v. hand-painted is amazing.
Photo Etch (PE) is a matter of personal choice. You can spend literally more time on the PE than one the kit, so be careful you're comfortable with it. I jumped right in on my first kit back (a Tamiya Pz. III) and haven't regretted using it, as I'm in favor of super-detailing.
As for paint, they're all quite good these days. Acrylics clean up better than enamels and are less of a fumes problem.
Hope that helps.
ModelBuildingTanks
Washington, United States
Joined: August 05, 2010
KitMaker: 146 posts
Armorama: 143 posts
Joined: August 05, 2010
KitMaker: 146 posts
Armorama: 143 posts
Posted: Sunday, April 10, 2011 - 06:42 PM UTC
Well John, I've been modeling for 4 years now. The important things I learned in the 60$ I wasted on screwing up models in my first few years were
-Never EVER use too much paint. It'll make the model shiny.
-Wash your model before putting it together.
-Always make notes before putting together your model. This is my favorite part.
-never weather too much! Oil wash the hull of your AFV very slightly.
-If you're going to make a battle wreck (a destroyed tank), makes sure you know what you're doing. Think about everything before you do anything!
-BE PATIENT!
-Always keep the hull (or seuspension), upper hull, and turret seperated before painting. Do research on your paint color if you want to be accurate. Ask the forums if you're not sure!
-And finally have fun!
Hope that helps,
Alex Baker
-Never EVER use too much paint. It'll make the model shiny.
-Wash your model before putting it together.
-Always make notes before putting together your model. This is my favorite part.
-never weather too much! Oil wash the hull of your AFV very slightly.
-If you're going to make a battle wreck (a destroyed tank), makes sure you know what you're doing. Think about everything before you do anything!
-BE PATIENT!
-Always keep the hull (or seuspension), upper hull, and turret seperated before painting. Do research on your paint color if you want to be accurate. Ask the forums if you're not sure!
-And finally have fun!
Hope that helps,
Alex Baker