Hopefully what is my last post before I actually have some work to show for al my pestering.

I know I'm going to prime my model with Tamiya spray primer, AB it with tamiya acrylics, spray future, decals, future, then comes oil washes correct? I'm going by a "to do" list posted on another post. I'm just wondering about the washes. I've heard Winsor and Newton thrown around a lot, so I'm assuming I can start there as far as washes go? They're not thinned with typical thinner right?

Basically after washes I can go ahead and do a flat coat, do any drybrushing, chipping etc, pigments, then I am fini?

Tell me I'm on the right track?

Yes, you have everything right! Thin your Winsor & Newton oils with odorless mineral spirits.

Hi Jaredt!
If you have the 'water mixable' Winsor&Newton oils you can use water as the solvent OR mineral spirits. Use water for one wash,spirits for the other, and put a clear flat barrier between them, such as Dulcote.

Great! That makes me feel at ease!

One more thing. I'm working on a Sd. Kfz. 165 (Hummel) I believe its an AFV club kit. My question is - an bear with me, this will be my first painted model - if I paint it the usual "german" yellow what colours can you suggest for oil washes? I hear lots of people using raw umber, so maybe I'll pick up a small tube of that. Should I grab a black, what else?

*EDIT: I was looking an Winsor and Newton paints and I could only find Oils, or water mixable oils, not an Oil paint that could be mixed with both. So i bought raw umber, raw umber light, and burnt sienna, in the oils, and a bottle of odourless mineral spirits.

The wash is essentially a cup of spirits with a drop or two of paint in it correct? And it flows over the model filling recesses and low points, and around details? If you were to do more than one is a coat of future necessary between them? Its better to do a wash over future because it flows better no?

Thanks again, so many questions I know, it'll be worth it!

Well the water mixable version of W&N is the one I was talking about. You can use it with water or spirits.

Ah, "I see" said the Blind man. I was confused, the employee at the art store just said one or the other, didn't say could be thinned with both. Does thinning it with water produce a different effect?

Do the colours I bought make sense for a late model Sd. Kfz. 165. I still have to buy colours for my AB (and my AB itself) but that'll be this week. What am I looking at for base/camo colours? I have Tamiya white primer so I'm good there.

ALSO, if I was to do a wash by thinning with water, and a 2nd by thinning with spirits, wouldn't the coat between them need to be gloss, ie. future, so as to enable the wash to run. OR would you wash with water, flat coat, then "pin wash" (just over details etc correct?)

Yes, differant solvents produce differant effects due to unique flow action and how they carry the pigments. Always test on a target hulk to your satisfaction.
German cammo colors are generally red-brown,dark yellow, dark green.This would generally be mid-war choices. Early could be dark brown over dark gray. Late war could be primer red over browns and greens.
Barrier coats can be either gloss or flat as they cause washes to flow diffrantly and enable differant techniques in 'working' the wash.
Weathering colors are just that-earth and urban colors picked up by the vehicle through use,travel, and combat. A set of 3 or 4 basic earth tones might be a good start to use and make variations.
Google a guy named Swanny for more solvent/wash studies and other bits of info.
Have fun!