...IF anyone makes clickable ones, for the Abrahms and Challenger 2 kits. Anyone know offhand who makes any such kits...?
Cheers, the hermit
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Looking for track sets...
thehermit
Manitoba, Canada
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Posted: Sunday, February 13, 2011 - 03:45 PM UTC
BigSmitty
Minnesota, United States
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Posted: Sunday, February 13, 2011 - 03:56 PM UTC
Bronco Models makes workable styrene track sets for the M1 Abrams and the Challenger II. I have a couple of sets for the Abrams. 5 or 6 pieces per link, and not like the "Magic Tracks" that have no cleanup, but they are probably the cheapest option available. I'm sure there are others as well, but will be a bit more expensive, from ModelKasten, Fruil and probably AFV Club.
dylans
British Columbia, Canada
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Posted: Sunday, February 13, 2011 - 04:01 PM UTC
Hey Laurie how have you been? Its been a while eh
the dragon M1 aim kis comes with individual link tracks. as far as a stand alone set of them you might be out of luck
Dylan
the dragon M1 aim kis comes with individual link tracks. as far as a stand alone set of them you might be out of luck
Dylan
junglejim
Alberta, Canada
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Posted: Sunday, February 13, 2011 - 06:00 PM UTC
I'm not aware of any true 'clickable' tracks for either, like WW2 Productions or others. There are 'workable' ones as mentioned but they require some precise glue application to remain workable. Friul doesn't make either of those types BTW.
Jim
Jim
Leopard-2
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Posted: Sunday, February 13, 2011 - 06:24 PM UTC
On the market there are no clickable tracks for the Abrams and the Challenger 2. Like Dylan said the DML M1A1 AIm and M1 Panther 2 kits contain the "MagicTracks" but those are not movable once the links are glued together. Notheless i like these tracks because the detailing is good.
If you're looking for an aftermarket set then you will be fine with the Broncos. Trumpeter also offers sets for both tanks BUT in case of the Challenger 2 the detailing is partially wrong (shapement of the guiding horns for example). Also the end connectors like to "fly away" when moving the track only a bit because of tight fitting. Also the pins for the connectors like to break very easily and fast. It's a pretty fragile construction. Okay, nobody really wants to handle the tracks like a toy but it's a pretty stressful piece of work anyway.
The Broncos only need to be glued carefully and then work nearly like real tracks. They are something that your little son could handle without breaking it immediately. Also the Bronco tracks like the DML DS' have separate guiding horns which are hollow and not massive like in all other track sets, no matter if workable or vinyl (or rubber) made.
If you like to improve detailing then the Broncos have another advantage. If you look at a modern "living" track with end connectors you can see that the tube bodies (or whatever it is called in english) are hollow. With some calmness, a steady hand and a drill small in diameter you can represent the tubes. I did that on my Leclerc tracks a while ago:
Yes, it is a lot of extra work and requires a lot of time but i like the result. I just like to do jobs right down to the last detail.
If you're looking for an aftermarket set then you will be fine with the Broncos. Trumpeter also offers sets for both tanks BUT in case of the Challenger 2 the detailing is partially wrong (shapement of the guiding horns for example). Also the end connectors like to "fly away" when moving the track only a bit because of tight fitting. Also the pins for the connectors like to break very easily and fast. It's a pretty fragile construction. Okay, nobody really wants to handle the tracks like a toy but it's a pretty stressful piece of work anyway.
The Broncos only need to be glued carefully and then work nearly like real tracks. They are something that your little son could handle without breaking it immediately. Also the Bronco tracks like the DML DS' have separate guiding horns which are hollow and not massive like in all other track sets, no matter if workable or vinyl (or rubber) made.
If you like to improve detailing then the Broncos have another advantage. If you look at a modern "living" track with end connectors you can see that the tube bodies (or whatever it is called in english) are hollow. With some calmness, a steady hand and a drill small in diameter you can represent the tubes. I did that on my Leclerc tracks a while ago:
Yes, it is a lot of extra work and requires a lot of time but i like the result. I just like to do jobs right down to the last detail.
DickyF
England - South East, United Kingdom
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Posted: Monday, February 14, 2011 - 10:06 PM UTC
Hi Laurie - can't help with the Abrams part of your query but I can vouch for the ease and simplicity of the Bronco CR2 tracks. I have used them on my recent Cut-Away Chally 2 Build. These were my first foray into the world of workable links and I can say they were fantastic - Very easy to clean up, easy to assemble, very effective when completed and, at under £7 a set , great value for money in my opinion!
Dick F
Dick F
Posted: Tuesday, February 15, 2011 - 12:10 AM UTC
Go with DS tracks or the Bronco offering as the Magic tracks do not work 100% as the end pins are attached to one set of pads meaning in some case they just don't look right.
HeavyArty
Florida, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, February 15, 2011 - 12:34 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Also the Bronco tracks like the DML DS' have separate guiding horns which are hollow and not massive like in all other track sets, no matter if workable or vinyl (or rubber) made.
This is not because Bronco's are better made or superior in design. The Dragon M1A2 SEP DS tracks and Bronco's tracks are T158 LL tracks which have open guide teeth. All the other AM and moulded tracks are the older T158 track which have solid guide teeth and are correctly molded.
For the Abrams, if you want the newer T158 LL tracks, you have to go with the Bronco ones. If you are looking for T158 track with solid guide teeth, I find the AFV Club ones the best.
By the way, there is no H in Abrams.
Leopard-2
Bayern, Germany
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Posted: Tuesday, February 15, 2011 - 04:49 AM UTC
That's new to me. Didn't know that there are two different versions of the T-158. I know the T-156 with the forked guiding horns and the different rubber pads. So once more i learned something. Thanks for the info!
Is this a "normal" T-158?
The guiding horns look like they have slots but not recesses, or is it dried mud? The horns of the spare track links on the turret side definitely look solid.
Is this a "normal" T-158?
The guiding horns look like they have slots but not recesses, or is it dried mud? The horns of the spare track links on the turret side definitely look solid.
Sabot
Joined: December 18, 2001
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Posted: Tuesday, February 15, 2011 - 05:12 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Is this a "normal" T-158?
The guiding horns look like they have slots but not recesses, or is it dried mud? The horns of the spare track links on the turret side definitely look solid.
Yes, that's the "normal", or more accurately, the original T158 track with solid center guides. They've been in use since the late 80s, maybe 1990 at the latest. The hollow guides are a relatively new feature that have been used since the early 2000s. Both types can still be seen in use today. It depends on what you get when you order new track.
Leopard-2
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Posted: Tuesday, February 15, 2011 - 06:37 AM UTC
Looks like it should not be a problem to convert the Bronco T-158LLs into a original T-158. Some PVA (or wood) glue or epoxy putty should to the job. Are there other differences between those two types expect the horns?
BTW: Anybody know how much weight the hollow guides save? Half a ton maybe?
BTW: Anybody know how much weight the hollow guides save? Half a ton maybe?