Will it work out fine?

Using Acrylics as undercoat, then washing it with Artist oils?

I tried using enamel undercoat, but the Oil washes the enamel paint off...

Hi Lonewolf

That should be fine.

The theory is:

acrylic undercoat + oils or enamels wash

or

enamel undercoat + acylic wash

You should be fine, but if you really "scrub" at any finish you'll damage it, whatever the sequence of enamels/oils & acrylics, or vica versa...

All the best

Rowan

It might be useful to put a layer of clear acrylic finish between the paints. Unless you want them to react.

I've been doing this for years with no problems. I do not apply a clear acrylic coat in between.

I use PollyS/Scale and Model Master acrylics only... let them dry thoroughly and then I thin my oils with Loew-Cornell Odorless Brush Cleaner and Thinner.

For a figure, I generally airbrush an enamel base coat. This tehn gets painted with oils (flesh) enamels or acrylics, dependiong on the color I need. If I'm goinng to apply an overall wash, I let things dry thouroughly. For armor, I generally apply a gloss coat before a wash, because I apply the wash after the decals have been laid down. FOr armor, I apply spot washes where I want a shadow or definition. I don't scrub or even brush it on, but place a small drop in panel lines, at the base of raised detail or other sharpo edges. Grills get a heavy dose of wash medium. I haven't had a problem with this process in 20 years and that 1/72 Sherman was my first realy succesfully competitive model.

Thanks for the tips... You can see some samples of my paint job in my gallery... Please tell me what need to be improved...

Thanks again!

Time is the answer for applying an oil / enamel wash over a enamel base successfully.
I let my enamel base dry for 72 hours ( 48hrs the least ) then apply an oil wash. I haven't ever had any problems with my base lifting, and I don't use protective clear coats either.

- ralph

best thing to do is spray the base coat, seal it with statin/gloss varnish add decals seal again do tne wash the varnish will help move it about once done and dusted drybrush and seal with matt varnish again I've had some good results doing it this way no peeling paint ect and no parts melting! have a look at my t-34 in another post and see for yourself
https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/17013&page=1

will this work?

enamel base coat--->glosscote--->enamel wash

Matt

I dont have any trouble with acrylic base coats and then using oil paint afterwards. I even use a heat gun to help speed up the drying time on the acrylics. I do prefer to use enamels for most of my base coating, paint chiping on hard edges is what gives me most of my headaches. I always seem to get some kind of chipped edge when I use acrylics, I think that is has more to do with the dilution of the acrylic than anything else. I don't touch the fiugres (unless I drop them, which happens) as I have rigged up many types of holders and use long brass pins to hold the parts.
Hope this helps