Used a clear coat-lacquer based, and found out that it re-mobilizes all my oil washes and makes them run. So i guess it reacts with oil paint? have a Tamiya clear spray but the can doesn't say if it is acryllic or lacquer based. What can I use that will not make the oil paint run? LAME!

Sounds like you maybe applied the clear too heavy?

The Tamiya spray clear is a synthetic Lacquer, and will dry glossy. Are you after a flat or gloss cote?

Ryan

I need a flat clear coat to apply oil washes on top of acrylic base coats, then to seal the oil washes once they have dried (so I can apply oil scratches and then acrylic on top of the oil).

Ok I see where you are going.

I would recommend the following steps, this assumes you have an airbrush...

1. Color coat, (The finished camo color) this can be enamel or acrylic...doesn't matter.
2. Seal this step with Future floor wax applied with an airbrush.
3. Apply oil washes after letting the Future sit for a day.
4. Clean up the excess oil paint tide marks etc., once happy with the wash seal with Testors Dull Cote applied via airbrush.
5. Lightly drybrush certain areas, then re-spray the Dull cote.

This is the "in a nutshell" process I use, somewhere in those steps you will apply scratches and detail brush painting.

The above steps were used on this recent build...the only thing acrylic on this model was the future cote....all else, aside from the dust cote, is enamel based MM paint.(ot lacquer Dull Cote)


Ryan

I have no airbrush, all by hand painting. I used Testors dull coat and it made the oil paint run. As for Future, I quit messing with that after it ate through my paint and made a mess of everything/made pools of white messiness.So the question is...does someone make an acryllic (not Future) flat clear coat that won't destroy my oil paint washes?

Sorry your having trouble.

I don't know of a acrylic spray flat.

The Lacquer clears and flats can attack if applied to heavy. Maybe a light rough cote first, then heavier coats after a hour or so?

You white(ish) flat coat could have been from high humidity. If the air is laden with moisture it will react with flat lacquers.

Ryan

maybe I applied too much, who knows, it is very frustrating.

I know man, Iv'e been there many times!

Any spray "bomb" paint usually works best with a couple of misted coats first.

Another tip is don't spray bomb a clear finish outside and immediatly go inside with the model to an airconditioned room. The still wet clear will flash and turn white. I had that happen to me once!

From reading your post maybe you are rushing things a bit.

Respectfully,
Ryan

Krylon makes a clear flat rattle can. And it's a LOT cheaper than any hobby clear flat medium. You can buy it at WalMart, Home Depot, etc.

Multiple light coats.

I use this a lot myself. It is an enamel quick dry formula. To me, the problem of the oils running after coat of flat laquer may be that the oils were not dry enough or no 'tooth' on the surface below them. Might also be too much laquer in one coat. Things to consider...........
Cheers!

Tamiya makes a flat coat, TS-80. It is still a lacquer, but dries extremely quick. If you apply it in light coats, it shouldn't attack your oils. The oils running sounds like your lacquer coat went on too wet...been there, done that. Gotta go lightly with that stuff... "Q"

ive been using tamiya clear flat and testors dull coat both spray tin and ive never had that problem and i put them on faily heavy,ive even sprayed them over oils that are not%100 dry i think you need look at somthing else your doing, in my book there no"1.

From personal experience I can attest to the fact that Testors Glosscoat can be hand brushed on, dries smooth, and won't attack the paint. But Their Dullcoat hand painted with eat right through the gloss and into your paint very quickly. Both are meant to be air brushed, and both I dilute 50/50 with Lacquer thinner. Both come in spray cans, and work extremely well. The issue is that being a spray can, the spray pattern is very wide, and puts out way to much clear coating. So several lite coats are best. You also need to use a paint booth, or in front of an open window, or even outside.

I sparingly use the dot method to bleach the base colors in a blotchy pattern, as I really don't want them to run. Once dry, I seal the model with a few coats of Pledge with Future. Decal, then a few more coats of Pledge with future.

Now I apply my oil washes and pin washes. When dry it's sealed in Dullcoat. Dry brushing, comes next. Then finally sealing in Dullcoat once again.

As you can see, all the clear coats are not the same base as the color coats they're covering. And those clear coats are applied with an air brush in lite coats to start with, then a final heavy coat to even out the finish.

The issue of trying to do lite coats by hand brushing is basically impossible as you're just thinning out the media with a compatable thinning agent that can eat into the previous surface. The only clear that hand brushes well is Pledge (Future) with a medium size brush.