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AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Rust and Heavy Weathering
Thivi11
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Ontario, Canada
Joined: January 12, 2011
KitMaker: 219 posts
Armorama: 158 posts
Posted: Friday, March 11, 2011 - 03:15 AM UTC
I have been reading a lot of Scratchmod's stuff and he says he always does a "clear enamel" coat over his base to protect it from chipping. He then proceeds to to the hairspray technique over this without worry.

My questions: Does this have to be an ENAMEL coat, meaning future won't do the same thing, essentially the water will seep through all paint + hairspray + future + primer coat = ruined model?

Am I wrong?
Paul-H
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United Kingdom
Joined: April 02, 2010
KitMaker: 234 posts
Armorama: 207 posts
Posted: Friday, March 11, 2011 - 05:01 AM UTC
Hi

If you are using the clear coat to protect the base coat from the weathering process then the clear coat has to be of a type not effected by the weathering process, so if all you weathering products are oil based then you need an acrylic clear and if all your weathering acrylic based then you need an oil based clear.

The trouble comes when like most you find you are using both oil and acrylic based products and other than using a 2 pack clear you will just have to be careful

But saying that a hard oil based clear is less prone to damage from further oil processes than an Acrylic clear is if further water based products are used.

But then again I use IPA to fix my pigments on an acrylic base coat without too many problems, the best thing to do is try it on a spare model or underneath the model, just to be sure that no damage is being done.

Paul
scratchmod
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Massachusetts, United States
Joined: November 07, 2008
KitMaker: 796 posts
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Posted: Friday, March 11, 2011 - 06:45 AM UTC
Paul is correct with his answers.

When I use an enamel base rust color, then there is no need for a clear coat when applying the HS. I mainly use acrylics so I apply the enamel clear to protect the rust acrylic color from the HS and chipping that follows. Lately I have been leaving out the clear because I have it down pretty good where it will not remove the base color.
Like Paul said, practice on a scrap model or piece of plastic. As with any technique, practice and experience plays a big role. I've done so many rust buckets now that it's second nature to me.
I have a few videos on my youtube channel (mrscratchmod) where I show how I do my rust and chipping.

Hope this was of help, and thanks for checking out the site.

Cheers
Rob
collin26
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Connecticut, United States
Joined: March 24, 2007
KitMaker: 317 posts
Armorama: 259 posts
Posted: Friday, March 11, 2011 - 07:44 PM UTC
Jared,
If getting a base level of experience using the "hairspray" technique to produce chipping is your objective, I would sugest the folowing steps.
1. Base colors with an acrylic or synthetic lacquer ( I use Vallejo Model Air for the wide color range and these are very forgiving and easy to use straight from the bottle).
2. Apply a coat of Lacquer based satin finish. In an effort to keep it simple, this can be done straight from a rattle can. Testers Spray cans will do the job.
3 Apply a liberal coat of hairspray. Aerosol will work or you can decant from a pump bottle and spray through your airbrush for more accuracy.
4. Apply the color that you would like to chip away.
5. Use a stiff brush and warm tap water to remove or chip away your top layer of color.
Jared, this is the simplest and most basic way to get a chipping effect using hairspray. Like Rob eluded to, this takes practice. Rob's advice to use a scrap model or the bottom of your model and experiment is the best. You will find that with a few practice runs you will have it down to a science. Once you are comfortable with these steps, you can start to play with the timing, thicknes of paint, and rubbing alcohol to achieve different effects. One scrap model and a few hours of practice time and you will be well on your way friend.
imatanker
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Maine, United States
Joined: February 11, 2011
KitMaker: 1,654 posts
Armorama: 1,565 posts
Posted: Friday, March 11, 2011 - 11:09 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Jared,
If getting a base level of experience using the "hairspray" technique to produce chipping is your objective, I would sugest the folowing steps.
1. Base colors with an acrylic or synthetic lacquer ( I use Vallejo Model Air for the wide color range and these are very forgiving and easy to use straight from the bottle).
2. Apply a coat of Lacquer based satin finish. In an effort to keep it simple, this can be done straight from a rattle can. Testers Spray cans will do the job.
3 Apply a liberal coat of hairspray. Aerosol will work or you can decant from a pump bottle and spray through your airbrush for more accuracy.
4. Apply the color that you would like to chip away.
5. Use a stiff brush and warm tap water to remove or chip away your top layer of color.
Jared, this is the simplest and most basic way to get a chipping effect using hairspray. Like Rob eluded to, this takes practice. Rob's advice to use a scrap model or the bottom of your model and experiment is the best. You will find that with a few practice runs you will have it down to a science. Once you are comfortable with these steps, you can start to play with the timing, thicknes of paint, and rubbing alcohol to achieve different effects. One scrap model and a few hours of practice time and you will be well on your way friend.

After you are done with the weathering,should you seal the entire model with some type of clear?
Spiderfrommars
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Milano, Italy
Joined: July 13, 2010
KitMaker: 3,845 posts
Armorama: 3,543 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 12, 2011 - 01:02 AM UTC
Hey jaredt, look there



is a "famous" Adam Wilder's rusty tank. That's his hairspray technique description

http://www.network54.com/Forum/110741/thread/1238314928/Hetzer+Identity+Complex

collin26
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Connecticut, United States
Joined: March 24, 2007
KitMaker: 317 posts
Armorama: 259 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 12, 2011 - 07:19 AM UTC
Jared,
If you are going to repeat the process to create an even deaper effect, then you must seal again.
The article posted here by A. Wilder is an excelent one. Also, Phil Stutsinskas printed an excellent artice on this technique in T.M.M.I. that is more than likely available on-line. Also, in the AK-INteractyive "Winter Weathering Techniques", Mig gives an excelent step by step on the hairspray technique on a larhe scale KV-1, this may be something for you to check out.
Thivi11
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Ontario, Canada
Joined: January 12, 2011
KitMaker: 219 posts
Armorama: 158 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 13, 2011 - 09:25 AM UTC
Thanks everyone!

I got my AB up and running this weekend and had 2 scrap models to practice on, TONS of fun. However, I tried the hairspray technique and I think I rushed it a little, I have one more scrap model so I've got one more shot. I also tried the salt, and every time I end up with a model covered in salt that I cannot remove, its becoming frustrating.

A Schwimmwagen project I'm going to be working on this week will "hopefully" use the salt technique but I'll have to see if I can figure it out before I start.

Otherwise, I have a T34/76 that will get paint this week, however I will not be using the hairspray or salt, I will just try to paint, weather and chip the "old fashioned" way.
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