I had a discussion with Bigrip74 (Bob R.) over on Aeroscale about airbrushes. I'm sure all of you have seen the threads about lets see your workbenches etc. Well, we couldn't recall seeing anything about airbrushes so here we are....in the same vein lets see your airbrush set up. How about a brief description of what you use, psi you shoot at, any special considerations you take or anything we the readers might find interesting/entertaining/helpful.
I'll kick it off....
Here is my set up....I shoot with a 20lb Co2 tank. Psi is set between 10-13 psi. Anything more and I run into problems with the paint drying before it hits the model which is akin to non-skid texture which isn't good on anything but a tank.. Very rarely do I ever have to increase this. I cut all my paints with lacquer thinner, Tamiya acrylics as well. I have 5 dedicated brushes that are used for a specific purpose in mind. The bottom two brushes are Iwata revolutions. The one on the left is for metallic only. The one on the bottom right is for acrylics and future. I cut my acrylics, other than Tamiya with Windex and they shoot well. I don't have a ratio, it is just something that I have come to be able to eyeball anymore. Top left is an Iwata HP-CH which I use for 90% of my work. Top right is an Iwata Custom Micron B which I use for extremely tight pattern work...think 1/72 or smaller German squiggle pattern camo. And last but not least in the middle looking like a bong of some sort is a Harder and Steenbeck Infinity. The funky looking tripod thing is its stand. I use this one also for tight pattern and detail work. I have all my brushes equipped with quick disconnects so I can change from one to the next easily. I used to have a 5 valve manifold, but it was constantly leaking and counter productive when I thought about it. All my brushes had the QD's on them, so I didn't really need the manifold. Something else I do with my brushes is seal the threads on the head assemblies with bees-wax. This ensures I always have a good seal and good airflow. When I'm done shooting for the day, the brushes get a thorough cleaning and a spritz of WD-40 in their paint cups then a couple pulls on the trigger to run it through. This helps keep the needles free from sticking should any paint residue still remain inside...It's important to remember to blast the WD-40 out though before you paint next or the first shot will be really glossy.. I've done it a few times. A couple drops of lacquer thinner cleans it out and I'm ready to paint.....



I used to run a compressor and had lots of problems. One of the biggest was the pressure drop, and the accumulation of moisture...I was living in the south at the time. I can't count how many paint jobs I had ruined because of that. Moisture traps didn't last long with the amount of water that was being produced. Once I made the switch to Co2 I never looked back. Initial set up was a little steep at around $200, but refills run just shy of $30, but I only have to have that done maybe 3 times a year. 1 for 1 exchange and no hydro testing every 5 years. No moving parts either...and it is whisper quiet. All fittings at the Co2 tank are wrapped with Teflon tape to ensure good tight seals.
Alrighty folks lets see what you got! "Q"

Here is what started my question to Matt: i had this aircompressor for over a year and a half with no way to controll the PSI until now. I could not find the parts to attach my air regulator.

BEFORE


AFTER:


Bob

I guess you and I are the only two out there with airbrushes Bob... "Q"
Come on folks, share the love....

heres my love then....

I use a model master "Aztek" airbrush. I love the interchangeable nozzles and that I can clean it from one colour to the next in less than 30 seconds. I nearly always use the .5 general purpose nozzle ( my current project has been painted 100% with this same nozzle).

I have two air compressors. One is a hobby one simply because it is very very quiet, I bought on ebay for about $40. its useless as it never fills the reservoir and is always running while I am painting, but at least its quiet and delivers air at a consistant rate ( albeit low pressure) . i run usually at 25psi and never change it unless I really need fine mist and crank it up to 35.

The other air compressor has a 40 litre tank and i run at a standard 30 psi. the beauty of that is while airbrushing It fills the reservoir and that stays high enough pressure for about 30 minuites of solid airbrushing, so motor only kicks in for about a minuite very half hour! It also delivers a really good constant pressure.downside is its noisy. I mostly airbrush at night and in my carport so the neighbours would get really jack of it at 3 am (i work shifts).

I dont have a multitute of airbrushes, I never have, I have achieved extraordinary results with mediocre equipment. and am quite happy with my set up. very basic, very rudimentary, very inexpensive. I have only recently started using acryilics and run enamel and acrylic through the same nozzle without changing any settings. I hate fiddling. I am the worst kind of modeller as I am really lazy yet manage to pull off a reasonable result. I clean my airbrush with Isopropyl Alcohol after acrylics, and with plain old turps after enamels. I might pull the nozzle out every now and then when I clean but usually just quickly run the cleaner through it and thats it. Never blocks up, and as long as you dont damage the nozzle or let grit into the cup, it shouldnt.

the airbrush is a double action with a third action on the shaft to adjust at what point the air engages (like a clutch).

Theres my set up. Simple and effective. I had a technological improvemnt recently though... I put two nails on the post to hold the airbrush rather than leave it on the table ( I tripped on the hose and stepped on the airbrush the other week, broke the cup throat - still works a treat though! gotta love how plastic flexes)

Adamskii

note the "test post" with colours on it "tested" before spraying

the little air compressor with reservoir. A diaphram pump on a piston. it overheats if running longer than 30 minuites and seizes until cold again.

the big compressor, oil filled and a dual piston pumps. Both compressors have moisture traps, auto cut off, and regulators.

Here are my three. The Paasche is my first brush. Sadly it doesn't get used much anymore, unless I have a really large job that I need to throw a ton of paint at. The Iwata Eclipse HP-CS is the real workhorse. Love that airbrush. The external mix cheap Badger is mostly for future or lacquers.



My compressor is a Husky that I bought ages ago to fill car tires. I'd like to get one more suitable to modelling, but can't afford it at the moment, so this will have to do.



And for good measure, here is where it all happens. Not the cleanest of days. Very convenient to have the computer handy for research and the odd Armorama post.

That's what I'm talking about.. nice to see how you guys do your painting. You are a braver man than I am Adam. I tried my hand with an Aztec brush a few years ago and just couldn't get it to perform for me. My buddy does amazing work with one. I guess it's all in the user. By shooting at such a hi psi, do you have problems with the paint drying before it hits the model?
I started off with a Paashce brush too Axel. An old double action VL that I bought with my hard earned allowance back in the early 70's. I still have it and it works great for something 40+ years old. Thanks for sharing your set ups guys. Hopefully more will join in. "Q"

Hi Guys..

I guess I'll throw up my pics..

here are my Compressors...



The one in the back is a silentair scropion II hobby compressor I bought about 7 years ago and was pretty expensive at the hobbystore ($200)

The one in the front is from Harbor Freight Tools on sale at about $35 last year, and I use it as my primary. (the scropion is starting to wear out, and the Harbor Freight one seems to have a better regulator)

My Airbooth setup..



This is a Model Expo portable spray booth I traded a couple of models for, and it is great.. I have it vented out through the dryer vent of my apartment and it really keeps the fumes down in the place. The turntable is from bed bath and beyound the airbrush holder from Harbor freight.. lol

My Airbrushes



Top one is my Latest and my Favorite..

the Badger Renegade Velocity, I just got this one a few months ago and I will sing its praises to anyone who asks.. LOL

The next one down is the Badger Universal 360, a great airbrush works great in siphon feed or gravity, my main beef was the cup was too small.

The bottome one is my first Badger airbrush the Cressendo, I got it with a 50% off coupon at a Michaels arts and crafts store. It taught me a lot and after I got it I threw away several Aztek airbrushs that I could never get to work.

The one on the right with the blue handle is a Harbor Freight airbrush.. pretty much a peice of $%#!Q but it works somewhat. I play with it ever now and then but I would never use it to paint anything important.. tends to spit a bit no matter what you do..

And thats my Collection and setup..



Delbert

@ Adam: I had an Aztek, but never used it so I sold it on ebay. I guess the Azetk is different than other a/b, do you really use 25-35 psi?

@ Axel: I started out with a Badger bottom siphon a/b (the cheapie) back in 1968 and a Badger aircompressor (the loudest thing I have ever heard) what psi do you normally spray your armor at they look really good.

@ Delbert: my next purchase or build project will be a spraybooth, I also use items from Harbor Freight. The a/b that I bought on ebay for around $30.00 is an Air Pro Tools PS 800 ( I am sure it is a Chinease nockoff) but it has done a really good job at the high psi that I have had to shoot at. As in my previous photos I just now attached a psi adjustment. Here is my a/b. BTW what psi do you spray at?

Air Pro Tools PS800


Oh I forget I still have a Badger 350? in my tool box, I guess now that the aircompressor is fixed I should pull out the old Badger and give it another try after (20) years.

Bob

Hi guys. No pics from me because my set-up is the most basic of basics. I have a Sparmax compressor that I run at anything from below 10psi for fine work to around 20psi for broad areas. My one and only airbrush is a Paasche-H single action job and I use the #3 tip for 90% of my work.

I use Tamiya and Gunze acrylics for most of my models, thinned with their own respective thinners, usually at 50:50 or 60:40 thinner:paint ratio.

For small jobs I use the gravity cup at around 12psi, but for bigger areas I use the siphon bottle and jack up the pressure to around 20psi.

I think it is more good luck than good management that I get most of the paint on the model and not all over the bench
Cheers, D

I dug into my tool box and found the old Badger, I think it needs a little cleaning and tlc then I can use it for primer and base color since it is a single stage and being a little on the ragged side.


Hey Matt, what do ya think, is it worth the effort?

@ D: back in the day Paasche was the Caddilac to have in order to complete a good finish. I was a poor little boy from the other side of the tracks and if it were not for working at Bobbye Halls Hobby House in Dallas, TX I would never have had an a/b or an aircompressor. The cheap stuff.

Bob

Hi Again..

The Air pressures I use depend on what airbrush and what paint.. and how thin i made it..

when I started with the Cresendo I was using pressures of 20 to 30 plus psi... its a siphon feed and is not all that detail oriented, in fact compared to my velocity it just blasts the paint out.. lol

with the Universal 360 I would start at about 20 and adjust it or the paint as needed.. I would try to get it set to spray at about 15 psi for my best results in gravity feed mode and around 20 to 22 psi in siphon feed..

My Renegade Velocity is the best. I just finished up a 1/72 scale tiger and I was spraying the red and green camo colors at 8 to 10 psi.. and I think I did the basecoat at about 12 to 14 psi.. of course I used well thinned paint.

as for paints I mostly use Testors Model Master Enamals.. I like them the best, but I also airbrush using Tamiya Acrylics, Humbrul Enamals, Polyscale acrylics, and Floquil enamals. It all depends on what I'm trying to do.

laters
Delbert



P.S. also as for airbrushing, I'm self taught so If I'm doing it wrong I can just blame myself... he he..


Dragon's 1/72 scale Tiger with zimmermit painted with my Renegade Velocity with testors model master paints..

Am I the only one getting photo gallery error coming up?

@ BobR: I usually run my Iwata between 25 and 30 PSI. That gives me a nice fine mist that doesn't pool up unless I really stay in one spot for a long time. The Paasche I never really got a consistent result from, but I ran it at around 30. The Badger won't spray at less than 35.

If you want to shoot primer and base coats, sure thing. I had several Badgers in my arsenal at one time. Parts are plentiful for those things and keeping them in working order isn't too hard.
Thanks for keeping the thread moving guys. All of you that shoot at 25+ psi have me baffled. If I try to shoot anywhere near 20psi, my paint dries before hitting the model. Maybe it's because of our altitude here...6,000 +. I don't know. Keep posting folks. Thanks, "Q"

Factors to consider that may cause results to vary are elevation, humidity and temperature. Additionally our guages might not be accurate (wouldn't surprise me at all to find that my guage is wrong).

Anyway, My basement is pretty much at sea level, cool and dry. It will start warming up a bit in the summer, but it should stay dry, as I have a dehumidifier running all the time.

hi all, i have used aerograph sprit major with standerd high flow setup, and fine needle and fitting when needed, it took a lot of practice for me to get half decent spray job, i should have started with a singel action it would have been easyer, i also run a devillbiss compresser, no tank direct air, when purchased over 30years ago very pricey, my thoughts were by the best and it should last a lifetime.
or two. having got me another aerograph 63 over 50 year old which has been used graphic art industry for many years and still works perfect, i will never do these air brushes justice, but they are sooo nice to use. sorry about typos, only just got dragged into 20th century. and don't know how to post picturs yet

Scrap, mine's all torn down at the moment. Had to do a major garage cleaning over the last week to get a new door installed. And my air compressor has been hauled off for a remodeling gig... So no photos for a while..

Basic rig is a Bostitch 7 gal air compressor, big box DIY configuration. I've shop built a moisture trap, 1/4 turn valve, extra pressure gauge (easier to read than on-board gauge) with an adapter for my ab hose. Brush is a Badger 200, ~34 years old, new tip, old needle. Just recently changed ab process to 20 psi, with paints thinned ~2:1 (P:T). Good results so far. Had been >30 psi and 3:1 thinning.

Greatest help has been giving up the 2-3 oz siphon bottle and going to a gravity feed cup. I've also moved the needle further back in the tip to start. Spending way less time getting paint to flow, mixing up less paint especially for smaller jobs.



On Edit: My current spray booth is the old box from a Christmas lawn ornament. It's about 24" cube, sometimes I even remember to wear a respirator mask when I spray.

@ Warren: I did not know the gallery was on the blitz.

@ Thomas: I agree with you on lasting for a lifetime.

@ Mark: no excuse for not posting a photo person from up north.

Bob

Half my stuff is off on a jobsite, won't see it before tonight. You might get a pic then.

Hi Guys

This is my set-up

I spray mainly acrylics and mainly Vallejo with odd Tamiya thrown in.

I use IPA to thin the Tamiya Paints and Vallejo Airbrush cleaner for the Vallejo paints.

I do spray the odd Enamel and mainly use White Spirit (Mineral Sperit) to thin that.

I normaly spray at around 18psi but will go down to about 10psi for fine detail work.

These are my brushes



2 Iwata Revolutions

The CR for primer and base coats and the BR for finer detail.

Next is a very old Badger 200 which although it still works very well only gets used for clear coats.

Then there are two Chinese Iwata knock offs, which actualy work realy well and are easily the equal of the two revolutions, I know I have either been lucky or my supplier knows a good Chinese copy factory as they have none of the often reported faults. Of the two I now only use the one with the mac valve and only use it for very fine detail work.

This was my first compressor

It still works well and is very quiet but was replaced with the bigger double pump version, so its now just an emegency back-up.



And this is now my main work horse compressor.



The advantage of the double pump over the single pump is that it produces more air than my airbrush needs so it will shut off during spraying sessions so it dosn't get a hot as the single pump which had to constantly runn when spraying.

Paul

Such as it is, here it is:

Paint booth, compressor, brush and valve. Brand new garage door in the background.

Badger 200 (34 years on) and the fiddly bits. All the valve bits were picked up at the local big box home center. The hose adapter might be from an old Binks canned air valve.

Up close with the ab (still has the S/N label) and the final pressure guage.

Love the garage door Mark, thanks for including it. Also nice to see a garage floor that looks like it should! Thanks everybody for keeping this going. Come on the rest of you....you know you want to participate! Show us what you paint with. "Q"

The garage started life ~45 years ago as a car port. It was walled in and viola! it's a garage. Probably the 3rd door on it in the last 20 years. Paint on the floor is the least of it's problems, there are several 'scrapes' in it where chunks of concrete are missing. Now that I have a working door, I need to get some of the junk OUT!

Matt, thanks so much for your PM on your micron, figured the same but am happy to know I'm not stupid.

And thanks for this thread I'm so glad to find another AB Geek, as this is my favoured part of modelling: endless sessions of shading, coating, highlighting dusting...

Well, here's my setup:



It's a compressor by a brand called SilAir and it's given me nothing but sterling service. Real quite, too.

These are my air guns:

All Iwata.
The lower one is my maingun. Iwata Reviolution HP cri.I use it for almost 95% of work. Sturdy, reliable, wonderfuly easy to clean and takes a lot of punishment. Got a tapered 0.25 nozzle, so really fine lines (0.5 mil and smaller) possible as well as whole priming coats.
Secondary weapon of choice is the upper left one. It's an Iwata Revolution HPB with 0.2 nozzle assembly. Real tight work. Think of Luftwaffe mottling and postshading of small pannels.
The upper right one is from another world. Iwata Evolution HPA Plus. 0.15 nozzle. Painting the bezzels of an 1:72 instrument pannel No seriuosly, I just use it to tint panel lines for finishing touches. There are not many paints I manage to squeeze through the nozzle, mostly artists' acrylics from Hansa and Schmincke (German brands, no need to know). Not really easy to handle but the results are stunning.

My workbench:


Everything happens here. It's my wife's and mine second living room (now that's an awkward sentence even if it were correct English).
We hang out there a lot (!!!) watching DVD (with me building of course). Although she picked up modelling not long ago ALL BY HERSELF!! Now, am I the luckiest modeling husband or not ? No envy here, please ;O)
This room and my wife being there is one of the reasons why I never regret switching to acrylics.

Which brings us to colour: Acrylics only. Love the quick drying time and the lack of smell.
Xtracrylix and Vallejo for basecoats, Gunze for detail work.
I almost exclusively brush at extremely low pressure 15 psi max. Sometimes even 10 or lower.
For thinners I use the respective thinners, thinning ratio for Xtracrylics and Gunze at least two parts thinner to one part paint. For Vallejo one drop of thinner for every three drops of paint. For extremely fine work I use Gunze thinned almost to oblivion with IPA.
I do use the odd Tamiya paint, those I thin 1:1 with Gunze laquer thinner. I alomst always prime my models with Tamiya rattle can primer although I'll maybe switch back to airbrushing Mr. Surfacer.

Questions would be very nice! Thanks for reading and thanks again, Matt, for this thread.

Greetings

P.S.: No, that's not the finest brand of gin mixed with the best tonic conceivable by man sitting on my desk there over yonder.
It's mere water with...ummm...ice....

Oh, please do tell about the Mircron because I'm planning to get one soon for my b-day....

What's up with it?

Rob