AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Matthew Toms
Dot Method help
bobbyh
Texas, United States
Joined: September 09, 2009
KitMaker: 433 posts
Armorama: 167 posts
Joined: September 09, 2009
KitMaker: 433 posts
Armorama: 167 posts
Posted: Monday, March 14, 2011 - 01:13 PM UTC
Hi everyone ! I am attempting " Dot Method" for the first time. I hope I am not repeating someone elses question. I looked through alot of articles and did not see mention of these specifics; 1- How long do you let the " dots" dry before working/ fading them ? 2- Should you start working/ fading them with a dry brush then work with wet brush ? or wet brush the whole time ? Thank you for looking and any help. - Bobby
drumthumper
Kansas, United States
Joined: December 22, 2004
KitMaker: 392 posts
Armorama: 227 posts
Joined: December 22, 2004
KitMaker: 392 posts
Armorama: 227 posts
Posted: Monday, March 14, 2011 - 02:18 PM UTC
Bobby,
Although I am not a big fan of the "dot" system, I believe I can answer your questions. You can begin blending the oils immediately as the whole purpose of the technique is to create subtle variations in tone and character over the base coat. Letting the oil dry too long will result in having to re-wet the oils in order tyo acheive the results you're looking for.
Also, use a brush moistened with whatever thinner you choose ( I recommend Turpenoid as it is distilled and less-harsh than most synthetic thinners). The method also points to using vertical strokes when blending, no doubt to create the rain-streak effect.
Kirchoff
Although I am not a big fan of the "dot" system, I believe I can answer your questions. You can begin blending the oils immediately as the whole purpose of the technique is to create subtle variations in tone and character over the base coat. Letting the oil dry too long will result in having to re-wet the oils in order tyo acheive the results you're looking for.
Also, use a brush moistened with whatever thinner you choose ( I recommend Turpenoid as it is distilled and less-harsh than most synthetic thinners). The method also points to using vertical strokes when blending, no doubt to create the rain-streak effect.
Kirchoff
bobbyh
Texas, United States
Joined: September 09, 2009
KitMaker: 433 posts
Armorama: 167 posts
Joined: September 09, 2009
KitMaker: 433 posts
Armorama: 167 posts
Posted: Monday, March 14, 2011 - 03:57 PM UTC
ok, gotcha. unless I hear different, I will go with that. Sounds logical as well. Thank you DrumThumper for your insight - Bobby
Phil_H
New South Wales, Australia
Joined: November 10, 2005
KitMaker: 546 posts
Armorama: 442 posts
Joined: November 10, 2005
KitMaker: 546 posts
Armorama: 442 posts
Posted: Monday, March 14, 2011 - 06:31 PM UTC
Just a small addendum to Mike's post above.
Do not use "natural" Turpenoid (green can?) as people here and on other forums have reported that it does not dry well and can be sticky even weeks after application. Use the mineral based version in the blue can.
Do not use "natural" Turpenoid (green can?) as people here and on other forums have reported that it does not dry well and can be sticky even weeks after application. Use the mineral based version in the blue can.
bobbyh
Texas, United States
Joined: September 09, 2009
KitMaker: 433 posts
Armorama: 167 posts
Joined: September 09, 2009
KitMaker: 433 posts
Armorama: 167 posts
Posted: Tuesday, March 15, 2011 - 11:56 AM UTC
understood. Thank you Phil. - Bobby
Posted: Wednesday, March 16, 2011 - 05:49 AM UTC
Just one more addendum: If you are weathering on sloped or vertical surfaces use vertical strokes but if you are using the dot method on a horizontal surface use a circular motion to blend the paint.
Good luck.
Good luck.
bobbyh
Texas, United States
Joined: September 09, 2009
KitMaker: 433 posts
Armorama: 167 posts
Joined: September 09, 2009
KitMaker: 433 posts
Armorama: 167 posts
Posted: Wednesday, March 16, 2011 - 06:20 PM UTC
Ok. I will have to try the horizontal / circular stokes method. Thank you Karl. Great idea. So far I have learned; 1-oil paints and mineral spirits. 2-only let dots sit about 5 minutes before fading them. 3-soft brush for working dots. 4- use a tooth pick. Smaller dots are easier to work with. 5 - soft strokes and not alot of thinner on brush. 6- use method on large flat surfaces that are easy to get to / work at. 7-one direction only. This has been my experience with a 1 hour first session. Was pleased with results. - Bobby
plastickjunkie
Florida, United States
Joined: December 31, 2009
KitMaker: 399 posts
Armorama: 157 posts
Joined: December 31, 2009
KitMaker: 399 posts
Armorama: 157 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 17, 2011 - 12:53 PM UTC
The beauty of oils is that they take a long time to dry so you have a longer working time. No need to rush on this method. It works best over flat acrylics that act as a barrier, the rougher surface will make it better to blend. The trick is to remove most of the oil paint just leaving a hint for color modulation.
dlesko
Alabama, United States
Joined: January 08, 2003
KitMaker: 124 posts
Armorama: 106 posts
Joined: January 08, 2003
KitMaker: 124 posts
Armorama: 106 posts
Posted: Sunday, May 29, 2011 - 10:51 AM UTC
Are there specific colors to use for the dot filters or is it based on what scheme your painting?
meaty_hellhound
Alberta, Canada
Joined: July 23, 2010
KitMaker: 786 posts
Armorama: 753 posts
Joined: July 23, 2010
KitMaker: 786 posts
Armorama: 753 posts
Posted: Sunday, May 29, 2011 - 01:39 PM UTC
hi Dave,
check out my old thread where i go through the steps of painting a Jadgpanther. i go through the colours i used for the dot method with oil paints. hope this helps. cheers, bd.
check out my old thread where i go through the steps of painting a Jadgpanther. i go through the colours i used for the dot method with oil paints. hope this helps. cheers, bd.