I just purchased Dragon's M-1A1 AIM and will be planning to build a 3d ID OIF Abrams.

I've seen some Abrams with more than one jerry can racks hanging off hte side of the mid turret. The kit comes with one, but I would like to build two more.

Does anyone have any recommendations for PE brass mesh - with holes similar in size to the ones in the kit?

Thanks!

Aber mesh S21 may be OK :
http://www.airconnection.on.ca/ABER/ABERMESH/airconnection_ABER_PES21.htm

Another option could be Real Model "Modern US fuel & water cans set" that includes two PE racks :
http://realmodel.cz/index.php?page=shop.product_details&product_id=331&flypage=garden_flypage.tpl&pop=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=79

PS : welcome to Armorama

HTH

Frenchy

can you upload pics of those Abrams?

Here's an unlucky one (Task Force 3-15) :



HTH

Frenchy

Hay love that photo.

Thanks for the suggestions!

I haven't been able to find Aber S21 in the U.S. I found Aber S05 and S09 at Pacific Coast Models. The mesh for the racks seem to have a diamond patter like S05 and S09. The hold in S09 is probably too small.

BTW - I have never worked with PE previously. How difficult is it to build the Dragon M-1A1 AIM BRE?

Thanks, any help would be appreciated.

Blain,

DML's mesh size is wrong. If you want to be accurate, use Aber's Mesh S08 http://www.jadarhobby.pl/aber-s08-nets-and-drilled-plates-pe-p-5103.html
That's the closest you'll get to the real thing.

Use Square plastic rod from Evergreen and copy the size from DML's kit. You can use Tamiya liquid glue to secure the nets in place easily. Once dry touch with Super glue.
Cut out strips of styrene for the hooks of the BRE.
Get the strips from everygreen for the side racks or cut them out..

See the BRE

Side racks

Nick, thanks for the suggestion.

Do you know anywhere in the US that sells Aber s08?

Also, how difficult was it to build the PE BRE? How did you fold the parts? This the first time for me working with them.

BTW - vey nice Abrams!

Thank you again!

Nice to see another Abrams builder. I scratched the racks 4 years ago. They are very easy. I took 3 jerricans and built the racks around them to fit. The main frame pieces are made of L shaped plastic strip. I cut K&S wire mesh to fit . The attaching pieces were in real life 2 flat metal strips bent over on itself. Like a large U and then welded onto the back rear side of the rack. So I used some thin brass strips and bent it accordingly. Remeber these racks were built by their Battalion maint. section. So there is no set of bluerprints. I forget how many pieces of mesh were required. I think it was 2x sides, 1 rear and 1 bottom piece. There was also a simple piece of flat metal with a bolt through one side and a notch on the other to hook across so the cans would not fall out.
Good luck
Joe Bevans
Los Angeles

Thanks for the commend Blain,

No idea about the US. I got the nets from Jadar models, poland. You can also try luckymodel,hobbyeasy,etc.

Not sure if you meant that you never worked with photoetch before,,so anyway, give a few swipes over all etch (before removing from the fret)...with medium grit sandpaper, and wipe with alcohol or the like to clean it off. This helps to rid it of dirt/grease and gives the surface some friction for the superglue to adhere well and paint to bite onto.

Joseph gave a good description on building the side racks (should be the same type used on the Bradley. ) Have a ruler and marker/pencil handy to make a new rack, measure and cut out the nets with a metal ruler and sharp blade..or scissors-if you have a steady hand. Note the orientation of nets.... and follow his instructions...use 3 jerry cans as a reference on the size of the rack.

As for the BRE in my photo, note the added plastic square rod and 4 U shape hooks used to mount onto the turret's rack.

For simple photoetch bends...you can usually use a metal rule and heavy blade... If you are going to be using a lot of photoetch in the future..I suggest you invest in a bending tool such as the ones from "The Small Shop".
http://www.luckymodel.com/scale.aspx?search=Y&q_brand=&q_category=&q_scale=&q_word=Workstation&q_show_instock_only=N
I got the 5.5" as I find it's the most versatile.
If not, then you should use square rod to replace the etch piece (which is to be bend into a square bar..) The rest of the BRE will take some thinking if you are bending by ruler and blade. I struggled with it cause I didn't have a Tool then.
Oh yes, make sure you fold the BRE part with the recessed lines facing outside! Which is contrary to the usual direction of folding etch.


I believe I have more photos of the side racks as well in my External HD..Let me know if you need them.

Nice work, I'm guessing that I will have to do this on my AIM?

If you want to be accurate....Yup!

Thank you Joseph and Nick for sharing with me the tricks of the trade.

Nick - The construction of the jerry can rack went well. I had issues with the BRE. As other have mentioned the Dragon instructions were not too detailed and I was not sure about the four folds at the top of the rack. I didn't realize until it was too late that they were to be folded into an square tube - which you pics makes clear. I bent the fold one too many times and it started to tear. Fortunately it was a clean tear. I think I will recreate folded top square tube with sprue.

Your pic also clearly illustrates how to reinforce and construct the BRE. I was wondering how I was going to glue the sides on without any tab.

Hopefully I can recover.

Thanks, Blain

I'm glad it's working out for you Blain.

You don't have to worry about gluing the sides now, since you'll be using styrene square for the rest..instead of gluing 2 edges of photoetch. This is one thing I notice with the designs of alot of photoetch sheets..somehow they expect you to glue such thin edges...Sheeeesh.

Forgot to mention..I hope you noticed the small handle at each side of the BRE. Use a scriber or such to poke 2 holes there..which will cause the opposite side to bulge a bit..File it down with a jewelers flat file. And use thin metal wire or 0.3 stryene rod (Plastruct) to shape as the handle.

Hey - The picture that Frenchy posted is the one I'm doing my diorama on...