I'm stuck with this kit even though I'm stuck with small details.
I can't for the life of me figure out where these 2 parts go exactly and the instructions are not just vague, they're "Dragon Vague" if you will.
Also I cannot seem to find any ref pics to sort this out myself, so I turn to you and hope that someone can help.....
Part K9 let's say I'm more or less convinced should be attached to the edge of the rear vertical plate, at the notch on the left hand side.
Part K10, I simply don't have a clue... On the vertical plate too? On the fender? No other steps or painting guide or even box art (!) show it there - or anywhere for that matter... And I can't find any pics from that angle...
See attached scan of the instruction sheet.
Thanks!
Hosted by Darren Baker
HELP with DML Geschutzwagen 38H f/s.IG.33/1
TrifonDK
Attica, Greece / Ελλάδα
Joined: February 17, 2009
KitMaker: 286 posts
Armorama: 285 posts
Joined: February 17, 2009
KitMaker: 286 posts
Armorama: 285 posts
Posted: Tuesday, March 29, 2011 - 11:25 PM UTC
JGriffon
United States
Joined: December 01, 2010
KitMaker: 50 posts
Armorama: 46 posts
Joined: December 01, 2010
KitMaker: 50 posts
Armorama: 46 posts
Posted: Wednesday, March 30, 2011 - 10:09 AM UTC
Trifon,
The K9 assembly goes exactly where the point of the arrow is showing. At the point where the rear plate and the upper rear deck plate join, causing both the blackout light and rear tail light to extend out over the fenders away from the haul about 15cm. The K10 assembly goes on the other side in exactly the same place.
The K9 assembly goes exactly where the point of the arrow is showing. At the point where the rear plate and the upper rear deck plate join, causing both the blackout light and rear tail light to extend out over the fenders away from the haul about 15cm. The K10 assembly goes on the other side in exactly the same place.
TrifonDK
Attica, Greece / Ελλάδα
Joined: February 17, 2009
KitMaker: 286 posts
Armorama: 285 posts
Joined: February 17, 2009
KitMaker: 286 posts
Armorama: 285 posts
Posted: Wednesday, March 30, 2011 - 10:31 PM UTC
Thanks Joe! I see what u mean.
TrifonDK
Attica, Greece / Ελλάδα
Joined: February 17, 2009
KitMaker: 286 posts
Armorama: 285 posts
Joined: February 17, 2009
KitMaker: 286 posts
Armorama: 285 posts
Posted: Saturday, May 07, 2011 - 01:44 AM UTC
Almost finished with this beautiful little kit and I've come close to the camo stage.
I've decided to go with the cover art scheme:
My 2 questions are:
Do you think this camo was sprayed on or brushed on?
AND
Do you think the best way to depict this camo is to airbrush or handbrush it on?
Thanks in advance for your feedback!!!
I've decided to go with the cover art scheme:
My 2 questions are:
Do you think this camo was sprayed on or brushed on?
AND
Do you think the best way to depict this camo is to airbrush or handbrush it on?
Thanks in advance for your feedback!!!
panzerbob01
Louisiana, United States
Joined: March 06, 2010
KitMaker: 3,128 posts
Armorama: 2,959 posts
Joined: March 06, 2010
KitMaker: 3,128 posts
Armorama: 2,959 posts
Posted: Saturday, May 07, 2011 - 07:46 AM UTC
Trifon;
I am not sure whether the original was hand-brushed, or perhaps stenciled and sprayed on.
BUT- you MAY want to create a fine-grain finish (your airbrush finish) regardless, owing to not wanting large-scale brush marks and lines!
There have been one or 2 (or maybe more) nice-looking builds of this beast done-up in this scheme - and if you Google the kit and look at the images, you'll find some pics thereof.
Gary Edmundson did a superb "reversed version" with light stripes on a green background in his book on Modelling the German 15cm sIG Bison and Grille (Osprey Modelling #19).
His approach, and the way I have tried some of this straight-edge spray stuff, is to make a card stencil of the component shapes (he did some triangular bits with straight-line edges so to spray the corners of the green triangles in the scheme).
From my experience, the stencil approach works really nicely and is easy and quick. Alternative approaches are to mask with tape either the stripes or the "diamonds" within the stripes and spray accordingly.
I would only hand-brush this if you were really determined or really like to do things that way!
Mr. E's build is pretty much what I am thinking of for this kit...! Though there are other cool schemes that appeal to me, too.
Bob
I am not sure whether the original was hand-brushed, or perhaps stenciled and sprayed on.
BUT- you MAY want to create a fine-grain finish (your airbrush finish) regardless, owing to not wanting large-scale brush marks and lines!
There have been one or 2 (or maybe more) nice-looking builds of this beast done-up in this scheme - and if you Google the kit and look at the images, you'll find some pics thereof.
Gary Edmundson did a superb "reversed version" with light stripes on a green background in his book on Modelling the German 15cm sIG Bison and Grille (Osprey Modelling #19).
His approach, and the way I have tried some of this straight-edge spray stuff, is to make a card stencil of the component shapes (he did some triangular bits with straight-line edges so to spray the corners of the green triangles in the scheme).
From my experience, the stencil approach works really nicely and is easy and quick. Alternative approaches are to mask with tape either the stripes or the "diamonds" within the stripes and spray accordingly.
I would only hand-brush this if you were really determined or really like to do things that way!
Mr. E's build is pretty much what I am thinking of for this kit...! Though there are other cool schemes that appeal to me, too.
Bob