Plain old Testors liquid cement 75% of the time, Tamiya Extra Thin (green cap) for the rest.

Jim

I'm not a big fan of they're big brushes, they should make one with springe system.

It's the only glue which allow you to match the parts and apply the glue AFTER.

I only use di and trichloromethane solvents. Better bonding than regular plastic cements. Very little post work required to clean up seams. I've been using them for over 35 years and would never consider going back to regular cements. Unlike regular cements, trichlo allows you to bond acrylic, ABS and butrate to styrene. This makes a big difference when you're scratchbuilding parts from dissimilar materials.

I use MEK known as Butanone and butyl acetate

I use MEK when an extremely fast bonding is needed, butyl acetate when a slower bonding is neeeded or I need to melt the plastic for weld seams, cast structure, etc.

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I only use di and trichloromethane solvents. Better bonding than regular plastic cements. Very little post work required to clean up seams. I've been using them for over 35 years and would never consider going back to regular cements. Unlike regular cements, trichlo allows you to bond acrylic, ABS and butrate to styrene. This makes a big difference when you're scratchbuilding parts from dissimilar materials.

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Quoted Text

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I use MEK known as Butanone and butyl acetate

I use MEK when an extremely fast bonding is needed, butyl acetate when a slower bonding is neeeded or I need to melt the plastic for weld seams, cast structure, etc.

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Very interesting indeed. Me too I've noticed that common plastic glues give some problems in scratch works, especially when use plastics different from Polystyrene Where do you buy it?


Anyway, to be more exhaustive for stronger bonding I use or the Tamiya orange (or withe) cap glue or Faller expert glue.

Can't help you on where to buy the solvents in Italy. Living in New York, I can buy the stuff from a really well stocked art supply store, like Pearl Paint, or at numerous places that specialize in sheet and formed plastic, acrylic and vinyl stock. You should be able to locate one place or the other near you. You could also try a chemical supplier.

I use Plastructs' Weldene (MEK) and Bondene mainly. Have only just gotten hold of the Tamiya Green Cap and it seems alright.

I used to use Revells Contacta Professional cause of its easy to use needle point applicator and I have used Humbrols Liquid Poly in the past with good results.

For CA I prefer Zap but it was hard to get in Oz for a bit so I have used BSI (Bob Smith Industries) which is the same as Zap.

Bugger, just read the labels on the Plastruct and they say that "This product contains a chemical known to the State of California to cause cancer". Lucky I'm in the State of Queensland so I'm safe. Same reason I only smoke cigarettes with the label "Your smoking can harm your unborn baby", bit hard to harm it when its a medical impossibilty for me to get pregnant. But then Arnie did it and he's the Govenor of California. Coincedence maybe?

Cheers, John