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Sherman T48 tracks: which parts are metal?
bill_c
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Posted: Friday, April 08, 2011 - 04:06 AM UTC
Am wrestling with the Bronco workable T48 Sherman tracks, and the painting guide is unclear which parts are rubber and which metal. I know the track pads are rubber, and the guide horns metal, but what about the inner part of the tracks where the road wheels go? It looks like rubber to me from photos, but I'm not sure.
toadman1
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Posted: Friday, April 08, 2011 - 05:56 AM UTC
Bill,
Except for the guide teeth and end connectors, T48 tracks are all rubber.
Chris "toadman" Hughes
Toadman's Tank Pictures
Except for the guide teeth and end connectors, T48 tracks are all rubber.
Chris "toadman" Hughes
Toadman's Tank Pictures
bill_c
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Posted: Friday, April 08, 2011 - 07:24 AM UTC
Thanks, Chris.
mzaborsk
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Posted: Friday, April 08, 2011 - 01:03 PM UTC
Bill
How are the tracks ? Once their assemble are they falling apart....I been using fruil tracks their great but they cost as much as I purchase a model for. Looking for an alternative to them.
Michael
How are the tracks ? Once their assemble are they falling apart....I been using fruil tracks their great but they cost as much as I purchase a model for. Looking for an alternative to them.
Michael
bill_c
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Posted: Sunday, April 10, 2011 - 06:30 AM UTC
I haven't finished them, but I'm very pleased so far except in two small areas:
Directions (I mistakenly out the guide horns on each link & not between them, as the directions are ambiguous, so I had to pull them off and re-do);
Painting guide (I wouldn't have posted this if it were clear).
The price is good, and I've built Bronco's M1A1 Abrams tracks with great success.
Directions (I mistakenly out the guide horns on each link & not between them, as the directions are ambiguous, so I had to pull them off and re-do);
Painting guide (I wouldn't have posted this if it were clear).
The price is good, and I've built Bronco's M1A1 Abrams tracks with great success.
fificat
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Posted: Tuesday, June 21, 2011 - 11:55 AM UTC
Any chance to see the finished and painted tracks? Have been thinking about this set of tracks myself. I checked out this site, and got interested in them.
http://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/reviews/vehicles/bronco/ab3538.html
Was thinking it might be best to pre-assemble the links and the horns, and pre-paint them metal color before assembling the whole thing, as well as pre-painting the front and back of the tread. How from your view would this work?
http://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/reviews/vehicles/bronco/ab3538.html
Was thinking it might be best to pre-assemble the links and the horns, and pre-paint them metal color before assembling the whole thing, as well as pre-painting the front and back of the tread. How from your view would this work?
bill_c
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Posted: Wednesday, June 22, 2011 - 02:31 AM UTC
I am very disappointed in the tracks and would not purchase them again. The cement weakens the links and I have had to end up gluing the tracks to the bogies almost like Magic Tracks. It's Dragon DS tracks on any further Shermans or Friuls.
Posted: Wednesday, June 22, 2011 - 09:07 AM UTC
Hi Bill,
Sorry to see you're having trouble with the Bronco tracks. I'm still only half-way through a set of their T51s, but so far the teeth and bars are fine. (I just ran out of patience and put them aside a month ago...)
I plan to spray the pads "on the sprue" with rubber colour, then touch them up after trapping the bars between them. My fear is that it might prove impossible to glue the pads without getting it on the bars.
And I agree the instructions are sparse and confusing - it helps to be a die-hard Sherman fan.
Tom
Sorry to see you're having trouble with the Bronco tracks. I'm still only half-way through a set of their T51s, but so far the teeth and bars are fine. (I just ran out of patience and put them aside a month ago...)
I plan to spray the pads "on the sprue" with rubber colour, then touch them up after trapping the bars between them. My fear is that it might prove impossible to glue the pads without getting it on the bars.
And I agree the instructions are sparse and confusing - it helps to be a die-hard Sherman fan.
Tom
bill_c
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Posted: Wednesday, June 22, 2011 - 09:32 AM UTC
Tom, I am not a chemist (chemical engineer, not your kind of chemist, which we call a pharmacist), but I suspect the chemicals in the paints I'm using (Tamiya black for undercoating) are eating away at the styrene and weakening the links holding the pads together.
In any case, Bronco has lost me on these for any future Sherman. They were OK for the M1A1 Abrams, but this is so disappointing, I've put the tank aside for 2 months without finishing it. Each time I think about picking it up, my heart hurts.
In any case, Bronco has lost me on these for any future Sherman. They were OK for the M1A1 Abrams, but this is so disappointing, I've put the tank aside for 2 months without finishing it. Each time I think about picking it up, my heart hurts.
PantherF
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Posted: Wednesday, June 22, 2011 - 09:41 AM UTC
Everything you wanted to know about Sherman track types:
http://web.inter.nl.net/users/spoelstra/g104/track.htm
http://web.inter.nl.net/users/spoelstra/g104/track_vvss.htm
- Jeff
http://web.inter.nl.net/users/spoelstra/g104/track.htm
http://web.inter.nl.net/users/spoelstra/g104/track_vvss.htm
- Jeff
Posted: Wednesday, June 22, 2011 - 09:47 AM UTC
Thanks for the heads-up on the Tamiya paint! (I'll have to experiment on some spares, if I ever get far enough along...)
I have to say that while I find the design interesting, I'm not convinced they are worth the hassle. Far better to order some Tasca tracks - they look great and are so easy to use! I just added their tracks to my Sherman III build...
Tom
I have to say that while I find the design interesting, I'm not convinced they are worth the hassle. Far better to order some Tasca tracks - they look great and are so easy to use! I just added their tracks to my Sherman III build...
Tom
bill_c
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Posted: Wednesday, June 22, 2011 - 10:06 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Far better to order some Tasca tracks - they look great and are so easy to use! I just added their tracks to my Sherman III build...
I found the Tasca tracks that came with my Hedgerow Cutter Sherman do not hold paint well and "flake" significantly. It's why I went with the Bronco's in the first place.
Posted: Wednesday, June 22, 2011 - 11:05 AM UTC
Really? How do you paint them? I shot Tamiya acrylics through the AB in thin coats with no primer at all, and it seems to be fine. You could always go for indy-link T48s from Dragon or Panda.
Tom
Tom
bill_c
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Posted: Wednesday, June 22, 2011 - 11:34 AM UTC
I shoot it through an AB. The Tamiya paints are neither acrylics nor enamels, but apparently alcohol-based (at least you can thin them with alcohol). Something in it makes the links brittle and they break.
pseudorealityx
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Posted: Thursday, June 23, 2011 - 01:02 AM UTC
The bronco design just seems more complicated than it's worth. I'll stick with Panda for single link Sherman tracks.
Fruils are a poor choice for Shermans, due to their weight. To get them tight enough to not have obvious sag, you'll overload the idler connection.
Fruils are a poor choice for Shermans, due to their weight. To get them tight enough to not have obvious sag, you'll overload the idler connection.
bill_c
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Posted: Thursday, June 23, 2011 - 03:37 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I'll stick with Panda for single link Sherman tracks.
I actually had a set of Panda's on order and then went for the Broncos because they're "workable," while the Panda's apparently aren't. Or do I have that wrong?
lukiftian
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Posted: Thursday, June 23, 2011 - 07:19 AM UTC
Wow, those remind me of MK tracks. Probably the best way to build these tracks is to use a little moly grease (used in model railroading) on the pins to repel glue. That would work and it wouldn't matter how much glue you use on the pads then. Pretty complex design and the pads look worn down, which is good.
pseudorealityx
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Posted: Thursday, June 23, 2011 - 09:34 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextI'll stick with Panda for single link Sherman tracks.
I actually had a set of Panda's on order and then went for the Broncos because they're "workable," while the Panda's apparently aren't. Or do I have that wrong?
Use a white glue on the pandas and they'll be workable 'enough' to get whatever shape you want. They're the same design as the M3/M5/M8 family of AFV tracks, which I've done 2 sets of. Do you really need 'workable'?
bill_c
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Posted: Thursday, June 23, 2011 - 10:15 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Do you really need 'workable'?
Yes.
The Tasca idler wheel pivots on its arm to allow track tensioning, so yeah.
stevieneon
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Posted: Thursday, June 23, 2011 - 10:48 AM UTC
I bought these Bronco tracks - so labour intensive. I gave up after making about 20 links! I go with the Tasca tracks. Stevie.
pseudorealityx
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Posted: Thursday, June 23, 2011 - 12:45 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextDo you really need 'workable'?
Yes.
The Tasca idler wheel pivots on its arm to allow track tensioning, so yeah.
The Panda tracks are workable if you only use a white glue. I prefer MicroScale Liquid Tape. They are more 'pliable' than workable. It'll be fine if you're just trying to adjust track tension.
pseudorealityx
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Posted: Thursday, June 23, 2011 - 01:06 PM UTC
Actually, AFV Club makes T-48's. (I had forgotten)
They're ~$13 with shipping from LuckyModel.
#35038 from AFVClub.
Here's a picture of assembly.
http://www.luckymodel.com/controls/DisplayPhoto.aspx?photo=http://www.luckymodel.com/img/hi-PI00000055011.jpg
They're ~$13 with shipping from LuckyModel.
#35038 from AFVClub.
Here's a picture of assembly.
http://www.luckymodel.com/controls/DisplayPhoto.aspx?photo=http://www.luckymodel.com/img/hi-PI00000055011.jpg
Big-John
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Posted: Thursday, June 23, 2011 - 03:21 PM UTC
Hi Bill,
The Panda tracks will do just fine if you use white glue as others have stated, they will remain flexible to allow you to adjust the idler tension.
You going to put some pics up when you get r done?
I haven’t tried painting Tasca tracks yet, so I don’t know how they will react with paint solvents, but you could try some floquil and see if it will “bite” in and not flake off.
The Panda tracks will do just fine if you use white glue as others have stated, they will remain flexible to allow you to adjust the idler tension.
You going to put some pics up when you get r done?
I haven’t tried painting Tasca tracks yet, so I don’t know how they will react with paint solvents, but you could try some floquil and see if it will “bite” in and not flake off.
bill_c
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Posted: Friday, June 24, 2011 - 04:32 AM UTC
Yes, I hope to put pictures up, but every time I look at the poor Sherman lying on its side, I switch over to another kit.
Floquil paints might work better. Another option might be to use a real acrylic base coat instead of the Tamiya flat black.
Floquil paints might work better. Another option might be to use a real acrylic base coat instead of the Tamiya flat black.
Posted: Friday, June 24, 2011 - 11:38 AM UTC
Quoted Text
...I mistakenly put the guide horns on each link & not between them...
Bill, you don't work for Tamiya do you? That's what their Stuart tracks are like.