Hi folks,
apart from all my other builds, I'm currently working on yet another usmc abrams.
this time it's going to be a sand colored tank called 'prom queen' from bravo co 1st mar div as seen on firdos square in baghdad back in '03.
here's my progress so far:
From M1A1HC 'Prom Queen'
so here's my first question, does any of you have an idea on how to make the kit supplied front fenders look like they were damaged? I'm referring to a heavily punched in look like the vehicle drove through a wall or something. I tried sanding 'em thin from the inside but that gets me nowhere, the plastic is too thick, plus I realized that it I had them thinned out properly they'd most likely become instable and might not withstand the weathering steps...
second question is does any of you have pics of that tank? I got two photos from frenchy (thanks) and a few snapshots from an embedded reporter who was with bravo co during oif1 but most pics are either blurry or show the tank somewhere in the background....
oh yeah, and then there's this one pic I found on the net:
any sort of info on that (or even it's wingman) tank would be highly appreciated.
Cheers, Max
Hosted by Darren Baker
M1A1 damaged fenders, and reference request
Citizinsane
Joined: July 27, 2006
KitMaker: 463 posts
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KitMaker: 463 posts
Armorama: 450 posts
Posted: Sunday, April 17, 2011 - 01:12 AM UTC
bison126
Correze, France
Joined: June 10, 2004
KitMaker: 5,329 posts
Armorama: 5,204 posts
Joined: June 10, 2004
KitMaker: 5,329 posts
Armorama: 5,204 posts
Posted: Sunday, April 17, 2011 - 04:24 AM UTC
Hi Max,
have you tried to use some aluminum sheet to make a new fender? I have seen a modeler doing this in a French magazine as he wanted to damage his tank like you intend to do.
have you tried to use some aluminum sheet to make a new fender? I have seen a modeler doing this in a French magazine as he wanted to damage his tank like you intend to do.
Citizinsane
Joined: July 27, 2006
KitMaker: 463 posts
Armorama: 450 posts
KitMaker: 463 posts
Armorama: 450 posts
Posted: Sunday, April 17, 2011 - 05:45 AM UTC
well, i thought of that but figured that the surface detail would be too difficult to capture that way... the real tank had the later style fenders with the small 'X' detail on it...
I'd also prefer using the plastic part over any metal or lead solution...
thanks
I'd also prefer using the plastic part over any metal or lead solution...
thanks
MikeMummey
New Mexico, United States
Joined: February 09, 2005
KitMaker: 672 posts
Armorama: 653 posts
Joined: February 09, 2005
KitMaker: 672 posts
Armorama: 653 posts
Posted: Sunday, April 17, 2011 - 05:53 AM UTC
Howdy Max, "Prom Queen" is B-41, the COs tank of Bravo Combany, 1st Tank Bn. Bravo Company was attached to 3/4 (3rd Bn, 4th Marines) for OIF. His wing tank was the XOs B-42 "Kitten Rescue" which was done on the first Echelon USMC OIF decal sheet. The missing ballistic skirt from B-41 was carried on the spade of one of the companies M-88s. You might want to use key words 3/4 Marines, Al Kut, Afak and TF Ripper in your search for images. I agree with Oliver that some aluminum sheet would be the best material to replicate the smashed fender. I have used aluninum pie pan material with good result in the past. Another option would be some .003 copper sheet. I found a packet of 6"x6" sheets a model RR shop for a couple dollars. You could use the end of a ball point pen to make the 'X' or burnish the thin metal over the styrene part. Happy USMC modeling!
Outta here, Mike sends . . .
Outta here, Mike sends . . .
majjanelson
South Carolina, United States
Joined: December 14, 2006
KitMaker: 1,355 posts
Armorama: 979 posts
Joined: December 14, 2006
KitMaker: 1,355 posts
Armorama: 979 posts
Posted: Sunday, April 17, 2011 - 04:08 PM UTC
Max,
I have to agree with Mike and Olivier about using aluminum to make replacement fenders, since I've made some in 1/72 scale.
This is my first feable attempt where I formed the aluminum directly over the plastic fenders:
Since then, I've used Milliput to make "masters", since it's more durable than the plastic originals. I recommend using thin cut sectiions of hex rod to rfeplicate the rubber splash guard mounting bolts.
Use the thicker aluminum from cooking pans as Mike suggested - it's harder to form but stronger once formed. And it's much easier to chip the paint, since all you have to do is lightly scrape it off.
Good luck!
I have to agree with Mike and Olivier about using aluminum to make replacement fenders, since I've made some in 1/72 scale.
This is my first feable attempt where I formed the aluminum directly over the plastic fenders:
Since then, I've used Milliput to make "masters", since it's more durable than the plastic originals. I recommend using thin cut sectiions of hex rod to rfeplicate the rubber splash guard mounting bolts.
Use the thicker aluminum from cooking pans as Mike suggested - it's harder to form but stronger once formed. And it's much easier to chip the paint, since all you have to do is lightly scrape it off.
Good luck!