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Armor/AFV: 48th Scale
1/48 scale discussion group hosted by Rob Gronovius
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modeling putty
billbill
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Pennsylvania, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, April 19, 2011 - 10:19 AM UTC
what is the best putty to use in filling seams as around the wing roots? [email protected] [email protected]
retiredyank
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Posted: Tuesday, April 19, 2011 - 10:22 AM UTC
Squadron white putty is what I use. I use Bondo body filler, when I am in a fix. I have heard Tamiya white putty is easy to work with. Just fill and sand and fill and sand. You may also want to mix a little superglue into it. This keeps it form being too porous.
ninjrk
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Posted: Tuesday, April 19, 2011 - 10:33 AM UTC
I use Bondo and Mr Surfacer for most things. They don't shrink as much as some of the other model putties out there.

Matt
Spiderfrommars
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Posted: Tuesday, April 19, 2011 - 10:47 AM UTC
Hi Bill

You have various possibilities in my opinion

You can use Tamiya white or gray putty (actually they are the same putty with different color). You can soften it with a little bit of acetone. That allowed to you to spread the putty with a brush and shortens the drying time.

You can use Milliput epoxy putty. The epoxy putty make stronger the parts bond. The advantage using the epoxy consist in the fact that you can smooth it with a cotton swab wet with water or alcohol. That prevents all the kit engravings

You can use als Mr surfacer 500. Instead of sand it, you can smooth it with IPA alcohol, acetone or Gunze lacquer thinner.

You can use CA glue. You'll obtain the strongest solution and a good base to engrave the lost panels lines.


cheers
billbill
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Posted: Tuesday, April 19, 2011 - 12:00 PM UTC
thank you for the tip. ill try it
billbill
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Posted: Tuesday, April 19, 2011 - 12:01 PM UTC
thanks matt
billbill
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Posted: Tuesday, April 19, 2011 - 12:02 PM UTC
thank cheers.
vonHengest
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Posted: Tuesday, April 19, 2011 - 01:43 PM UTC
You can also go with Mr. Hobby (Gunze) Mr. Dissolved Putty if you want your putty liquified but don't want to mess with mixing acetone or anything into it. It does have a slight shrinkage equivalent to most other putties, but it's not bad and is very easy to work with and sand.

I use both Mr. Dissolved Putty and Squadron White putty mixed with acetone, and both work quite well
billbill
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Posted: Tuesday, April 19, 2011 - 01:58 PM UTC
thanks Jeremy
Spiderfrommars
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Posted: Tuesday, April 19, 2011 - 07:25 PM UTC
To fill largest gap you can use also plastic strips.

You should put the strip (or stretched sprue) in the gap and then you glue it and soften it very carefully with tamiya liquid glue (green cap). When it dries , you'll be able to remove the excess with a sharp blade. After then you'll be able to sand it


Jeremy...I'd like to use Mr. Dissolved Putty and Squadron White putty, but both are unavailable here in italy

cheers
vonHengest
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Posted: Tuesday, April 19, 2011 - 08:31 PM UTC
Mauro, you can order some of the Mr. Dissolved Putty through HLJ. It's pretty inexpensive
Mr. Dissolved Putty

The Gunze products are pretty hard to find here in the States, and we are usually limited to paints.

If you really want to try some of the Squadron putty let me know and I can help you out. Check what shipping rates would be, and if putty would make it through customs over in Italy.
goh_stuka
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Posted: Tuesday, April 19, 2011 - 09:13 PM UTC
Hi Bill,

I am Goh from Singapore.

I had a good way by using super glue and baking power.

Step 1 - Use the super glue to cover the grap and put baking power over it.

Step 2 - Remove the access baking power.

Step 3 - LEt the mixture dry up (about 10 mins).

Step 4 - Use a file or sand paper to sand it flat.

I hope this will help.

Cheers.
Plasticbattle
#003
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Posted: Tuesday, April 19, 2011 - 09:41 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Jeremy...I'd like to use Mr. Dissolved Putty and Squadron White putty, but both are unavailable here in italy


Squadron white putty is the single worst I have used. Humbrol putty is much better.
For big gaps I like to use stretched sprue first and then fill out with Mr. Surfacer 500 when needed. Milliput or magic sculpt work great where you need to shap the filling.
Spiderfrommars
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Posted: Tuesday, April 19, 2011 - 10:06 PM UTC

Quoted Text


For big gaps I like to use stretched sprue first and then fill out with Mr. Surfacer 500 when needed. Milliput or magic sculpt work great where you need to shap the filling.



Yes, of corse, thanks a lot for your clarification Frank, I've forgotten. After the filling with stretched sprue it could be necessary applying a thin coat of Mr Surfacer 1000 or 500



Quoted Text


Squadron white putty is the single worst I have used. Humbrol putty is much better.



Well I've heard a lot of people who likes a lot Squadron white putty...I was just quite curious to try-it, although I'm a "Tamiya basic putty fan"
Otherwise I'm very disappointed with the impossibility to get Mr dissolved putty... I've seen in a lot of tutorials that it seeams an incredibly useful product
cheers
vonHengest
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Posted: Wednesday, April 20, 2011 - 03:16 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi Bill,

I am Goh from Singapore.

I had a good way by using super glue and baking power.

Step 1 - Use the super glue to cover the grap and put baking power over it.

Step 2 - Remove the access baking power.

Step 3 - LEt the mixture dry up (about 10 mins).

Step 4 - Use a file or sand paper to sand it flat.

I hope this will help.

Cheers.



That's cool! I'll have to give that a try
billbill
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Posted: Wednesday, April 20, 2011 - 06:44 AM UTC
all the information i have received has given me many options to choose from and i thank all who have replied with their ideas.
retiredyank
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Posted: Wednesday, April 20, 2011 - 06:51 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Squadron white putty is the single worst I have used.


I've never had any problems with Squadron. It sands easily, doesn't shrink and isn't too porous. I haven't tried Humbrol putty. I may order some of it just to find out which is better.
retiredyank
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Posted: Wednesday, April 20, 2011 - 07:23 AM UTC

Quoted Text


I've been using miliiput and tamiya AB putties (I think they are from the same maker), till this new stuff. IMHO, this blows milliput out of the window. I've literally tossed away my leftover milliput.


If I am going to use a two part putty/paste, I'll go with epoxy.
Spiderfrommars
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Posted: Wednesday, April 20, 2011 - 10:21 AM UTC

Quoted Text


If you really want to try some of the Squadron putty let me know and I can help you out. Check what shipping rates would be, and if putty would make it through customs over in Italy.





I'm sorry Jeremy I haven't read this post

Thanks a milion Jeremy for the offer, you're incredibly kind indeed, but i think I won't try for now

Anyway, thanks a lort again

Cheers
Spiderfrommars
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Posted: Wednesday, April 20, 2011 - 10:28 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi Bill,

I am Goh from Singapore.

I had a good way by using super glue and baking power.

Step 1 - Use the super glue to cover the grap and put baking power over it.

Step 2 - Remove the access baking power.

Step 3 - LEt the mixture dry up (about 10 mins).

Step 4 - Use a file or sand paper to sand it flat.

I hope this will help.

Cheers.



I've tried this way, but in my humble opinion CA is too hard to sand it flat. For sure, I wasn't be able to manage, but in my opinion you could file too plastic without removing the CA filling
vonHengest
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Posted: Wednesday, April 20, 2011 - 04:31 PM UTC
Mauro: Sure thing

Frank and Brian: I agree that Squadron putty is hard to work with straight out of the tube, which is why I don't. However it works great when mixed with acetone, especially for filling gaps, and is very easy to work with and sand this way.
TonyDz
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Posted: Wednesday, April 20, 2011 - 05:01 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Hi Bill,

I am Goh from Singapore.

I had a good way by using super glue and baking power.

Step 1 - Use the super glue to cover the grap and put baking power over it.

Step 2 - Remove the access baking power.

Step 3 - LEt the mixture dry up (about 10 mins).

Step 4 - Use a file or sand paper to sand it flat.

I hope this will help.

Cheers.



That's cool! I'll have to give that a try



Not a very good idea. After a couple years it will start leaking some kind of fluid. Read about that trick 20 some years ago and wish I had never tried it. It has ruined some of my older built kits.
panzerdoc
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Alaska, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, April 20, 2011 - 05:55 PM UTC
I have tried all of the above and the aves products are by far the best products to work with. sculpt for areas that need to be worked more and the clay for areas you need more substance. The sculpt can be worked for hours and the clay for about an hour. I will never go back to milliput or squadron. just my opinion
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