I am considering purchasing a new airbrush and am looking for some "expert" advise. I assume that there are MANY of you out there that have multiple airbrushes and know quite a bit about the types, setups and such.
So, I currently have a Paasche H that was my first airbrush that I bought when I was 16. It has served me well and is in great condition but am finding that there are many things that people do here that I do not think my airbrush could do, but it could also be that my skill level is not there either.
Around christmas I purchased a previously owned paasche double action (V or VL) and have yet to bust it out on a project. I am considering an Iwata but do not know what I need or what skill level these really require. Any insights are welcome and appreciated. Cheers.
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Airbrush Questions
didgeboy
Joined: September 21, 2010
KitMaker: 1,846 posts
Armorama: 1,509 posts
Posted: Sunday, April 24, 2011 - 05:34 AM UTC
Paul-H
Joined: April 02, 2010
KitMaker: 234 posts
Armorama: 207 posts
Posted: Sunday, April 24, 2011 - 07:12 AM UTC
Hi
I have 2 Iwata's, both from the revolution range a BR for fine detail and a CR for primer and base coats, I get fantastic results from both of these guns so if you don't want to spend a fortune I can Highly recomend both, if you do want to spend a fortune then go for the custom micron, but if you are not 100% confident in you skills a Custom Micron may be too good for you and you may struggle with it.
Paul
I have 2 Iwata's, both from the revolution range a BR for fine detail and a CR for primer and base coats, I get fantastic results from both of these guns so if you don't want to spend a fortune I can Highly recomend both, if you do want to spend a fortune then go for the custom micron, but if you are not 100% confident in you skills a Custom Micron may be too good for you and you may struggle with it.
Paul
GALILEO1
Joined: April 18, 2006
KitMaker: 1,794 posts
Armorama: 1,431 posts
Posted: Sunday, April 24, 2011 - 08:00 AM UTC
I also stated with a Paasche H and still use it occasionally when I need large coverage (the hull of ship for example). However, for a few years now I've been using two Iwatas, a Revolution CR (5mm needle/nozzle) and a HP-CH with MAC valve (3mm needle/nozzle). I find that these two provide the flexibility I need to get about 95% of my painting work done. I say about 95% because I'm finding that to do really fine lines (as needed when I do camo work on some aircraft) with these two is a little tricky. I can get down really close to what I want but I've been thinking that I'd like to have a brush with smaller needle/nozzle (2mm perhaps) so I can complement the other two.
Anyway, if you're considering Iwatas, I'd myself would go for either of the ones mentioned by Paul. The BR comes with a nice small needle/nozzle combo so that would be the way to go. The CR could be your next addition for more general work. Either way, Iwatas are really good at a generally good price (except the Microns, of course).
Rob
Anyway, if you're considering Iwatas, I'd myself would go for either of the ones mentioned by Paul. The BR comes with a nice small needle/nozzle combo so that would be the way to go. The CR could be your next addition for more general work. Either way, Iwatas are really good at a generally good price (except the Microns, of course).
Rob
c5flies
Joined: October 21, 2007
KitMaker: 3,684 posts
Armorama: 2,938 posts
Posted: Sunday, April 24, 2011 - 08:52 AM UTC
Can't go wrong with an Iwata. A couple of other excellent choices would be Harder & Steenbeck and the Grex line. Both of these brands offer 'mid-priced' brushes with a range of needle/nozzle sizes to fit the brush. In other words, one brush with the capability to do a variety of tasks. The H&S Evolution that I use has a .4, .2 and a .15 needle which will cover just about any need. Plus both these brands have removable cups in a variety of sizes.
didgeboy
Joined: September 21, 2010
KitMaker: 1,846 posts
Armorama: 1,509 posts
Posted: Monday, April 25, 2011 - 06:57 AM UTC
Ok, there are a lot of Iwata's out there. Assuming that I am going to continue to use the Paasche H for base coating and larger areas, The VL for some other finer work, what would Ii be looking for in an Iwata and what specific model should I be looking for. I build Armour mostly, I do have a few modern aircraft and ship kits as well as some gundam, macross etc. I have been looking for info that can tell me what the difference between a revolution and some of the other brushes are but I am having a time trying to figure out the difference between them all. Any one have some good hard details they can share? My apologies for my ignorance on this there is just not a LHS where I can go and BS with the old timers here. Cheers.
Kelley
Joined: November 21, 2002
KitMaker: 1,966 posts
Armorama: 1,635 posts
Posted: Monday, April 25, 2011 - 07:18 AM UTC
Damon, check out this link, it will give you a good overview of some of the Iwata brushes.
http://www.missing-lynx.com/reviews/other/iwata.htm
Some of the brushes reviewed have been updated, or their designations have been changed since this review (the HP-B is now the HP-B+) but it will still give you a good idea of what to expect. I will say the Custom Micron is for extreme detail work and from what I have been told can be a little "finicky" until you get your paint/thinner ratio dialed in and then get used to the brush itself. I have an HP-B and can do very fine detail work and camo schemes with it no problems. I also have the Revolution HP-CR which I use for base coats and stuff like that (but it will still do some pretty fine lines if you take your time and practice) Here is a link to an online store I have dealt with several times and had good service at good prices.
http://www.dixieart.com/Iwata_Airbrush_Main.html
Good luck,
Mike
http://www.missing-lynx.com/reviews/other/iwata.htm
Some of the brushes reviewed have been updated, or their designations have been changed since this review (the HP-B is now the HP-B+) but it will still give you a good idea of what to expect. I will say the Custom Micron is for extreme detail work and from what I have been told can be a little "finicky" until you get your paint/thinner ratio dialed in and then get used to the brush itself. I have an HP-B and can do very fine detail work and camo schemes with it no problems. I also have the Revolution HP-CR which I use for base coats and stuff like that (but it will still do some pretty fine lines if you take your time and practice) Here is a link to an online store I have dealt with several times and had good service at good prices.
http://www.dixieart.com/Iwata_Airbrush_Main.html
Good luck,
Mike
didgeboy
Joined: September 21, 2010
KitMaker: 1,846 posts
Armorama: 1,509 posts
Posted: Monday, April 25, 2011 - 07:32 AM UTC
So an HP-BCS is for finer work or more general?
Kelley
Joined: November 21, 2002
KitMaker: 1,966 posts
Armorama: 1,635 posts
Posted: Monday, April 25, 2011 - 08:44 AM UTC
Quoted Text
So an HP-BCS is for finer work or more general?
I haven't used this one myself but judging from the description on the site I linked to I would say it is a general purpose brush, very similiar to the Revolution CR.
Mike
collin26
Joined: March 24, 2007
KitMaker: 317 posts
Armorama: 259 posts
Posted: Monday, April 25, 2011 - 03:19 PM UTC
Guys,
I see a LOT of people using Iwata brushes and I am sure they make an outstanding airbrush. However, the Iwata line is not the key to profesional looking paint jobs. Honostly, it is in you hands!
I have been using Badger brushes for years and have excelent results and ZERO problems. I still have my first brush which is a Badger 150 and can do almost anything with it. I also use a Velocity for almost everything. I suppose it is possible for your skill level to out perform your airbrush......in contrast, I do not believe that by purchasing an Iwata or any other brush, your skill level jump by leaps and bounds. It is all about your confidence in your own hands and your comfort level with your brush and paint.
I want to add that Badger brushes are made here in the USA and the customer service is out of this world. If you have a problem, you can get real person on the telephone that can walk you through fixing any issues you may have.
Find a fine art store, model show, or hobby shop that will allow you to play with a Badger Velocity -or- Patriot......you will be pleasantly suprised at what an excelent profesional artists tool you have made right here in the USA with super simple availability. In my area, the Badger line is also less expensive.
I am not trying to disrespect Iwata brushes....honestly I have never owned one. I just want to say that they are not the one and only key to professional results.
I see a LOT of people using Iwata brushes and I am sure they make an outstanding airbrush. However, the Iwata line is not the key to profesional looking paint jobs. Honostly, it is in you hands!
I have been using Badger brushes for years and have excelent results and ZERO problems. I still have my first brush which is a Badger 150 and can do almost anything with it. I also use a Velocity for almost everything. I suppose it is possible for your skill level to out perform your airbrush......in contrast, I do not believe that by purchasing an Iwata or any other brush, your skill level jump by leaps and bounds. It is all about your confidence in your own hands and your comfort level with your brush and paint.
I want to add that Badger brushes are made here in the USA and the customer service is out of this world. If you have a problem, you can get real person on the telephone that can walk you through fixing any issues you may have.
Find a fine art store, model show, or hobby shop that will allow you to play with a Badger Velocity -or- Patriot......you will be pleasantly suprised at what an excelent profesional artists tool you have made right here in the USA with super simple availability. In my area, the Badger line is also less expensive.
I am not trying to disrespect Iwata brushes....honestly I have never owned one. I just want to say that they are not the one and only key to professional results.
GALILEO1
Joined: April 18, 2006
KitMaker: 1,794 posts
Armorama: 1,431 posts
Posted: Monday, April 25, 2011 - 04:23 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Guys,
I see a LOT of people using Iwata brushes and I am sure they make an outstanding airbrush. However, the Iwata line is not the key to profesional looking paint jobs. Honostly, it is in you hands!
I have been using Badger brushes for years and have excelent results and ZERO problems. I still have my first brush which is a Badger 150 and can do almost anything with it. I also use a Velocity for almost everything. I suppose it is possible for your skill level to out perform your airbrush......in contrast, I do not believe that by purchasing an Iwata or any other brush, your skill level jump by leaps and bounds. It is all about your confidence in your own hands and your comfort level with your brush and paint.
I want to add that Badger brushes are made here in the USA and the customer service is out of this world. If you have a problem, you can get real person on the telephone that can walk you through fixing any issues you may have.
Find a fine art store, model show, or hobby shop that will allow you to play with a Badger Velocity -or- Patriot......you will be pleasantly suprised at what an excelent profesional artists tool you have made right here in the USA with super simple availability. In my area, the Badger line is also less expensive.
I am not trying to disrespect Iwata brushes....honestly I have never owned one. I just want to say that they are not the one and only key to professional results.
I'd agree with Ian's comments completely. It really depends on the user and how much time you're willing to spend really learning the techniques involved. I, personally, like Iwata because they do what I want them to do right off the bat. I've tried the Badger Crescendo and obtained mixed results (although it may have been because of the user
). I'm considering a new airbrush myself so perhaps is time to try one of the newer Badger brushes. I hear very good things about them.
Rob
MacTrucks
Joined: November 12, 2006
KitMaker: 285 posts
Armorama: 228 posts
Posted: Monday, April 25, 2011 - 04:29 PM UTC
I thought the Paasche VL was supposed to be a very good airbrush for detail work. When I first got an airbrush I could afford a Badger, but not a Passche. They were top of the line (or that was my impression). The Iwata was a newcomer to the field a few years back. Not necessarily a good or bad airbrush but definitely cheaper in purchase price.
Before you start buying more, maybe you should try experimenting with the ones you already own to get a swing of what you do or don't like (feel, features, etc.). From my experience, good airbrushing requires eye-hand coordination through practice, but also good maintenance and paint prep. So many of my problems have been related to bad paints or poorly maintained airbrushes, not necessarily skill with the airbrush.
Before you start buying more, maybe you should try experimenting with the ones you already own to get a swing of what you do or don't like (feel, features, etc.). From my experience, good airbrushing requires eye-hand coordination through practice, but also good maintenance and paint prep. So many of my problems have been related to bad paints or poorly maintained airbrushes, not necessarily skill with the airbrush.
panzerbob01
Joined: March 06, 2010
KitMaker: 3,128 posts
Armorama: 2,959 posts
Posted: Tuesday, April 26, 2011 - 02:51 AM UTC
I mostly go with Rob C and Lain... Doing a better paint job comes from the painter's skill with his/her tools. BUT, there is truth in that old saw about "silk purses from sow's ears": A good tool in the practiced hand will enable that hand to do a better job than will a crappy tool.
Fortunately, there are many pretty decent AB out there. My Iwata HP-CS and Badger Patriot serve me quite well, and I even get OK results from my 40+ year old Paasche bottom-feeder. There is a wealth of useful comment from many regards the brands and models to consider.
So- my advice, FWIW... Start with a GOOD basic AB - avoid the cheapest knock-offs, and DON'T buy a "top-of-line" AB - as your first. Learn the tool and what it can do for you. Do the maintenance and take care of the tool. PRACTICE. And HAVE FUN with the thing! If you find using AB a drag, don't force it. You'll not get anywhere you want to be!
Painting is a learned skill and takes a little time and a few mistakes to get to where you can consistently do a really crappy job like I can!
Bob
Fortunately, there are many pretty decent AB out there. My Iwata HP-CS and Badger Patriot serve me quite well, and I even get OK results from my 40+ year old Paasche bottom-feeder. There is a wealth of useful comment from many regards the brands and models to consider.
So- my advice, FWIW... Start with a GOOD basic AB - avoid the cheapest knock-offs, and DON'T buy a "top-of-line" AB - as your first. Learn the tool and what it can do for you. Do the maintenance and take care of the tool. PRACTICE. And HAVE FUN with the thing! If you find using AB a drag, don't force it. You'll not get anywhere you want to be!
Painting is a learned skill and takes a little time and a few mistakes to get to where you can consistently do a really crappy job like I can!
Bob
SgtRam
Contributing Writer
#197
Joined: March 06, 2011
KitMaker: 3,971 posts
Armorama: 2,859 posts
Posted: Tuesday, April 26, 2011 - 03:07 AM UTC
I have a Paasche VL and really like it. It works very well for me. I went from an Aztek to the Paasche and found a great difference. The dual action works great and smooth, and it paints well. I am no expert, but I like it. I am thinking about getting an Iwata top feed.
18Bravo
Joined: January 20, 2005
KitMaker: 7,219 posts
Armorama: 6,097 posts
Posted: Tuesday, April 26, 2011 - 04:09 AM UTC
Quoted Text
My apologies for my ignorance on this there is just not a LHS where I can go and BS with the old timers here. Cheers.
Where in Washington are you? Bridgetown Hobbies in Portland has a build night every month or two weeks, I can't remember.
Hell, it'd be worth the trip even if you're as far as Tacoma. You can save on taxes in OR.
didgeboy
Joined: September 21, 2010
KitMaker: 1,846 posts
Armorama: 1,509 posts
Posted: Tuesday, April 26, 2011 - 06:24 AM UTC
Robert;
I am in Walla Walla, which is the far south east edge of WA. I do get to P-town a few times a year, but not that often and there is nothing by me for LHS.
Ok, so I totally understand that a new airbrush is not necessarily going to make me a better painter, BUT I also know that with better tools, you can do better work. As an example, I cook for a living (part of my work) and while the best knife will not make any idiot who picks it up into a Michelin starred chef, it can improve results. And while your Cutco knives may suck, in the hands of someone who knows what to do, they can be "useful", but the results will still not be the best. Proper tools AND proper training are the optimal situation.
My skills are improving, but like cooking I am having to teach myself and learn as I go. I am at the point where I am realizing that if I want to start to really improve my skills I need to look for better tools. There are some great deals on Iwatas right now and even a used one could be great for me (I do not have serious $$$ to spend). I just have no idea what one does better than the other and which one is really best for what I need.
This is MY LHS if you will. The place I come to get info and recommendations and I thank ALL of you for adding your input. Having resources like this makes the hobby more accessible for all of us, especially the "next generation" who can read through these posts. Cheers.
I am in Walla Walla, which is the far south east edge of WA. I do get to P-town a few times a year, but not that often and there is nothing by me for LHS.
Ok, so I totally understand that a new airbrush is not necessarily going to make me a better painter, BUT I also know that with better tools, you can do better work. As an example, I cook for a living (part of my work) and while the best knife will not make any idiot who picks it up into a Michelin starred chef, it can improve results. And while your Cutco knives may suck, in the hands of someone who knows what to do, they can be "useful", but the results will still not be the best. Proper tools AND proper training are the optimal situation.
My skills are improving, but like cooking I am having to teach myself and learn as I go. I am at the point where I am realizing that if I want to start to really improve my skills I need to look for better tools. There are some great deals on Iwatas right now and even a used one could be great for me (I do not have serious $$$ to spend). I just have no idea what one does better than the other and which one is really best for what I need.
This is MY LHS if you will. The place I come to get info and recommendations and I thank ALL of you for adding your input. Having resources like this makes the hobby more accessible for all of us, especially the "next generation" who can read through these posts. Cheers.
Paul-H
Joined: April 02, 2010
KitMaker: 234 posts
Armorama: 207 posts
Posted: Tuesday, April 26, 2011 - 06:53 AM UTC
Hi
I have to aggree with some of the above posters about not needing to spend a fortune to get good results, although as I said above I do have a couple of Iwatas, I also have a couple of Cheap Chinese Iwata clones with one of them a custom micron clone and to be honest I cannot fault them and for under £15 each they are superb buys, and I still use the CM clone for very fine detail as it has a 0.2mm nozzel fitted.
I know these brushes often get bad press but most of it is from either newbees who don't know how to use it or top end brush owners that cannot accept anything so cheap could be of any use (I am not looking for a flame war on this )
Perhapse I have been lucky or perhapse my seller knows a good chinese factory when he see's one, but mine are fantastic brushes.
At the end of the day if you don't know what you are doing you will have problems no matter how much or little you spend.
Paul
I have to aggree with some of the above posters about not needing to spend a fortune to get good results, although as I said above I do have a couple of Iwatas, I also have a couple of Cheap Chinese Iwata clones with one of them a custom micron clone and to be honest I cannot fault them and for under £15 each they are superb buys, and I still use the CM clone for very fine detail as it has a 0.2mm nozzel fitted.
I know these brushes often get bad press but most of it is from either newbees who don't know how to use it or top end brush owners that cannot accept anything so cheap could be of any use (I am not looking for a flame war on this )
Perhapse I have been lucky or perhapse my seller knows a good chinese factory when he see's one, but mine are fantastic brushes.
At the end of the day if you don't know what you are doing you will have problems no matter how much or little you spend.
Paul
didgeboy
Joined: September 21, 2010
KitMaker: 1,846 posts
Armorama: 1,509 posts
Posted: Tuesday, April 26, 2011 - 09:44 AM UTC
Paul;
Agreed. I do not know that I have ever seen the "knock off" types. Can you throw up some pictures? I would be interested in a good quality brush for $30. Cheers.
Agreed. I do not know that I have ever seen the "knock off" types. Can you throw up some pictures? I would be interested in a good quality brush for $30. Cheers.
18Bravo
Joined: January 20, 2005
KitMaker: 7,219 posts
Armorama: 6,097 posts
Posted: Tuesday, April 26, 2011 - 10:14 AM UTC
If you're looking to spend thirty bucks, get the 40% off coupon from Hobby Lobby and buy a $50 AB. True, the more expensive ones aren't necessarily the best, b ut if what you want is just outside your range, their coupon is one of the best things on the net. Michael's does this too occassionally.
By first AB was a little $10 job with the bir jar underneath, hooked up to a spare tire. For a single color, it worked great. It was a lady taking the tire around with me to keep getting it filled up though.
By first AB was a little $10 job with the bir jar underneath, hooked up to a spare tire. For a single color, it worked great. It was a lady taking the tire around with me to keep getting it filled up though.
Paul-H
Joined: April 02, 2010
KitMaker: 234 posts
Armorama: 207 posts
Posted: Tuesday, April 26, 2011 - 06:55 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Paul;
Agreed. I do not know that I have ever seen the "knock off" types. Can you throw up some pictures? I would be interested in a good quality brush for $30. Cheers.
Hi
This is the one I use
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Spray-Gun-Airbrush-180-Air-Brush-w-quick-release-UK-/140374695354
Paul
panzerbob01
Joined: March 06, 2010
KitMaker: 3,128 posts
Armorama: 2,959 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 27, 2011 - 04:10 AM UTC
In general, I am a fan of CHEAP.
I own Iwata and Badger Patriot AB - more expensive.
A CHEAP knock-off AB CAN be very good - and the more so if you can get 0.2mm fine-line performance for maybe $US 30.00. "Chinese" (or any other) knock-offs don't have to be bad, just because they are knock-offs. The issue which I have is that, with Iwata and with other "name brands (and their dealers), I can get that brush serviced when it goes bad, and if it comes as a "lemon" at the first, I have someone who I can gripe to and get it replaced or fixed. There are typically folks standing behind these products. And you do pay for this support...
With the knock-off, you might well get a good brush - but IF it were a "lemon", or if you want some parts or service, you may find yourself off in the bush and in the land of "caveat emptor". Knock-offs of many things often come with more variation in quality - and you stand higher risk of getting that lemon. That's more of a gamble than is worth it, to me. But that's me - if you can get one which is good, you do save some money!
Now, if the sellers would allow you to actually test the item before you buy it - sort of like test-driving that car... I can see it now... The local discount tool place (hey- ANY retail place) with a AB test booth and a selection of fine paints, thinners, etc.!
I'd be on my way!
Cheers!
Bob
I own Iwata and Badger Patriot AB - more expensive.
A CHEAP knock-off AB CAN be very good - and the more so if you can get 0.2mm fine-line performance for maybe $US 30.00. "Chinese" (or any other) knock-offs don't have to be bad, just because they are knock-offs. The issue which I have is that, with Iwata and with other "name brands (and their dealers), I can get that brush serviced when it goes bad, and if it comes as a "lemon" at the first, I have someone who I can gripe to and get it replaced or fixed. There are typically folks standing behind these products. And you do pay for this support...
With the knock-off, you might well get a good brush - but IF it were a "lemon", or if you want some parts or service, you may find yourself off in the bush and in the land of "caveat emptor". Knock-offs of many things often come with more variation in quality - and you stand higher risk of getting that lemon. That's more of a gamble than is worth it, to me. But that's me - if you can get one which is good, you do save some money!
Now, if the sellers would allow you to actually test the item before you buy it - sort of like test-driving that car... I can see it now... The local discount tool place (hey- ANY retail place) with a AB test booth and a selection of fine paints, thinners, etc.!
I'd be on my way!
Cheers!
Bob
Paul-H
Joined: April 02, 2010
KitMaker: 234 posts
Armorama: 207 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 27, 2011 - 07:52 AM UTC
Agreed totally but then again another way of looking at it is the Knock off seller is only making a couple of bucks profit on each brush sold so cannot afford all the niceties you mention, the likes of Iwata have a huge profit margin so can easily afford all the niceties. I bet it doesn’t cost Iwata that much more to make one of theirs as it does the Chinese to make one of their knock offs, they just have better quality control (I Hope) and a name that demands a higher price.
Don’t get me wrong I am not for one minute suggesting the knock off Micron is anywhere near the quality of the Iwata Micron but for a lot of users its good enough and may even be better for them because its not as fussy as the precision made Iwata is.
Mind you if I could afford it I would buy the Iwata CM any day of the week but I can’t and the same goes for many looking for an airbrush that will do a good job, and for those the Knock off is ideal (As long as you get a good one) and for me I have two from the seller listed and I have bought another 2 for friends and not one of them has been a pup or lemon. This may be because we have been lucky and I accept that is possible, it may also be that after all the bad press they got some of the makers have improved their quality control and are now making very good airbrushes for a fraction of the price of some of the more common makers.
Each to there own as they say
Paul
Don’t get me wrong I am not for one minute suggesting the knock off Micron is anywhere near the quality of the Iwata Micron but for a lot of users its good enough and may even be better for them because its not as fussy as the precision made Iwata is.
Mind you if I could afford it I would buy the Iwata CM any day of the week but I can’t and the same goes for many looking for an airbrush that will do a good job, and for those the Knock off is ideal (As long as you get a good one) and for me I have two from the seller listed and I have bought another 2 for friends and not one of them has been a pup or lemon. This may be because we have been lucky and I accept that is possible, it may also be that after all the bad press they got some of the makers have improved their quality control and are now making very good airbrushes for a fraction of the price of some of the more common makers.
Each to there own as they say
Paul
SSGToms
Joined: April 02, 2005
KitMaker: 3,608 posts
Armorama: 3,092 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 27, 2011 - 07:59 AM UTC
Damon,
No matter what brand you buy, the optimal airbrush for armor modeling is a gravity feed, double action, .35mm nozzle airbrush.
If you want quality and performance that will last a lifetime, and have $130 to $180, Buy an Iwata HP-C+, a Tamiya HG, or a Grex Genesis XG. Just Google the airbrush and you'll be able to compare shops and prices.
If you want a Chinese copy that's actually pretty good, you can go on HobbyEasy and get a Sparmax SP-35c for $40 including shipping.
No matter what brand you buy, the optimal airbrush for armor modeling is a gravity feed, double action, .35mm nozzle airbrush.
If you want quality and performance that will last a lifetime, and have $130 to $180, Buy an Iwata HP-C+, a Tamiya HG, or a Grex Genesis XG. Just Google the airbrush and you'll be able to compare shops and prices.
If you want a Chinese copy that's actually pretty good, you can go on HobbyEasy and get a Sparmax SP-35c for $40 including shipping.
mharris79
Joined: March 22, 2011
KitMaker: 51 posts
Armorama: 42 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 27, 2011 - 09:30 AM UTC
Just for something else to consider:
I use a Harder and Steenbeck Infinity and it came with two needles/nozzles (0.2 & 0.4) plus 2 cup sizes. ideal for detailed work with highly thinned Tamiya paint and normal/basing work.
I find the finish to be very good plus its easy to strip and clean properly without too much messing about. I also find the spares easier to get here in the UK (although Iwata stuff is probably more readily available worldwide?).
I used an Iwata Eclipse before but I prefer the H&S. Def worth a look
I use a Harder and Steenbeck Infinity and it came with two needles/nozzles (0.2 & 0.4) plus 2 cup sizes. ideal for detailed work with highly thinned Tamiya paint and normal/basing work.
I find the finish to be very good plus its easy to strip and clean properly without too much messing about. I also find the spares easier to get here in the UK (although Iwata stuff is probably more readily available worldwide?).
I used an Iwata Eclipse before but I prefer the H&S. Def worth a look
didgeboy
Joined: September 21, 2010
KitMaker: 1,846 posts
Armorama: 1,509 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 27, 2011 - 11:41 AM UTC
Ok, follow up question: Why is a gravity feed better than a siphon? I have only used the siphon so I am completely in the dark here. Cheers.
SSGToms
Joined: April 02, 2005
KitMaker: 3,608 posts
Armorama: 3,092 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 27, 2011 - 12:45 PM UTC
With a siphon feed, you have to blast a certain amount of pressure across the top of the paint feed tube to create a vacuum before you even begin to apply paint. Not a very efficient way to move a liquid and you are forced to operate at or above a specified PSI and paint flow. There is a minimum distance you can get to the model because of the pressure and therefore a limited tightness of paint pattern you can obtain. Turn down the PSI to get closer and you get...no paint. Also, the paint in the tube and the jar bottom is just there to maintain the vacuum. Then you have to clean it all out.
Gravity feed, the paint flows down around the needle following the laws of nature. Every bit of air pressure, however small, is used to distribute the paint. You can put 3 drops of paint in the cup and shoot it at 5 PSI if you want. You can remove the needle cap and get 1mm from the model and paint a hairline. Then you just blow cleaner through the airbrush when you're done and it's all clean. With a .35 needle you can get pencil lines up close, and also cover a whole model with a base coat if you crank it wide open. It's a versatile nozzle size.
Gravity feed, the paint flows down around the needle following the laws of nature. Every bit of air pressure, however small, is used to distribute the paint. You can put 3 drops of paint in the cup and shoot it at 5 PSI if you want. You can remove the needle cap and get 1mm from the model and paint a hairline. Then you just blow cleaner through the airbrush when you're done and it's all clean. With a .35 needle you can get pencil lines up close, and also cover a whole model with a base coat if you crank it wide open. It's a versatile nozzle size.
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